sleeper06

I did notice a difference in throttle position forgiveness, and response. All out drag it's not necessary IMO or I would run one myself

If you have the nology as close to the cdi like in the pic(under tank bracket) you could possibly have some electronic interference. I've done a lot of relocating with the bracket shown above, I chased my tail on a slight stutter at high rpm for a wk second guessing everything I did. I put an oem coil in problems gone, so I went as far as to try the nology on two additional bikes I relocated same issue . So naturally I thoght it was the coil put in a bike with stock locations and it's been in there since 06 with no issues

Shhhhhsh nobody can know my lemonade secret

Get me some pics, (516)852-4969

On. A play port from Jeff expect at least dbl your hp

Lower the idle screws till there not effecting slide height, adjust cable play so each carbs pulling up at Sam time, then go to the sync tool , don't forgot to move idle screws back up before you start. Also don't forget to leave a lol free play at the thumb

So the bike was running and driving like thay

I've been without s tig for so long I wanna weld everything, looks like my rigid will be finished now

23-24cc 4 mill domes call fast racing, I would say post pics of the top of Pistons and a pic showing the connecting rod number, and big end rod pin .020 base gaskets, new oring kit with new copper washers, without measuring porting dimensions myself it would be hard to tell if 23-24 would be best for 91, good luck people replied here that have no fucking clue

Honestly the only way to go is a water cooled set up , when welding aluminum

If u have a dynasty it has adjustable pulse , sick shit

Shee cases are junk material to weld , but it can be done ? And I've done it before , usually I insist on a tear down for two reasons , cleaning and preheating . Clean is the #1 priority when tugging aluminum next is being able to preheat the case to limit heat fatigue on the metal . Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. Next I have seen tig if not preheated properly cause the surrounding area to become pourus and weak. Again I'm no expert on metals but I have done enouph shit to these shee motors to give an opinion. I know your not gonna take it apArt despite what I say just make sure whoever does it is qualified and for shits and giggles unplug your electronics, I've never had an issue on the shees but on other platforms I've seen the hi frequency cause some shit

Excessive piston clearance, rod bearing play, cold seizure, free revving with no load on motor, jamming 2* air in a motor trying to stay 180*

340 main 30 pilot stock needle 4 th clip to start should be safe to start ghere

Let's talk it's something I've been looking for on the low for a while , I need one badly

Is it cracked?

Against my better judgment I have put people's shit back together with some scarring like that, I had a hone run through it, re chamfered everything and it was fine , if I were u I would have someone at least hone it just a lil to put a scratch in it , so it lubes properly and seats new rings properly. On the other hand if it was my personal cylinder I would reshape the ports a lil and replate it

I like marine tek

How long did u actually have there shit , seems like you were pretty quick if u ask me

Have you ever tried your porting style with no sleeve , ive seen similar shit to yours done with no sleeve, must have been a lot easier

165 main 48-50 pilot I would go rite to s 165 main rite off the bat , if it pulls hard and clean go up one at a time till it rolls over or surges then back it down. Don't drive yourself crazy with plug color I've seen people chase light brown and toast motors

Air leak!!

Good luck hope u make it

Nice time buddy , good job

I think having the gears cut is more important than the bearing on drum