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LoveThePolice

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    2011 Yamaha Banshee stock

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  1. Thanks for the advice mate, I've been rather busy today: 1. Installed 30 pilots, the 27.5s were slightly sandy but not clogged. Cleaned em better than I thought I had before. 2. Installed 300 mains. No clogs. 3. Ran a compression test. Only makes 90 psi. Seems like it's time for a rebuild, does it not? 4. Air screw at 2 turns out, needle at middle clip. 5. Fixed a small leak in the right exhaust manifold. 6. Inspected reed cages for damage, all clear. 7. Push started once, now she will start from kick, albeit not very reliably. I will tinker with the jetting down south to see if I can get it Mickey Mouse. Thanks a lot guys. I don't know what I'd do without you. Is that 90psi a good indication that a rebuild is warranted? She still screams along... PS: whoever put the left carb air screw on the inside side of the bike needs to be fired. Means I have to take the air filter off to adjust :/ wish I could do it while it's running.
  2. Alright, I will go to the shop tomorrow and get some 30 pilots and 300 mains. Thanks for the help.
  3. Will go to the store and see if they have any tomorrow. I don't see how that could be the problem if it's run fine on 27.5's before at equivalent temps and altitudes.
  4. Just an update lads: Compression: as suggested by the Clymer manual by putting my thumb on the empty spark plug socket and kicking it. My thumb is pushed out indicating sufficient compression. Going to get a gauge tomorrow for an accurate reading. Spark: having the spark plug out of the cylinder, I kick the engine and sure enough, a spark is emitted. Fuel: took the carbs apart and there's fuel in the float bowl. Jetting: put the pilot air screws at 2 turns out, needle jets at middle clip, 320 mains, 27.5 pilots (cannot get 30's before I go away, plus it was working fine before). Syncing: Synced the carbs as per Clymer instructions. Throttle valves rise at identical time. I have literally no idea what else could be wrong. Looks to me like it's got all the foundations for combustion. Any suggestions?
  5. I've never had a 30 pilot before and it has run pretty damn well in the past. I tried sticking pilot screws in and then out a turn with no change in either circumstance. I have ensured that the float bowl with the choke jet is on the right carb. I don't really know what else it could be :/
  6. How can I be rich when the choke helps? When it runs better when hot? I have not done a plug chop, but will on sunday
  7. Western Australia. Still have TORS. It's about 25-30c here this time of year
  8. Hi, I have a 2011 Yamaha Banshee with a list of (mostly airflow related) mods. You can read about her in my previous posts, but it will suffice to say that I have FMF fatty pipes and Powercore 2 silencers, vForce 4 Reeds, a Toomey 2 into 1 air filter, +4 timing, etc. Anyway, I have never had her jetted quite right. Not well enough to start perfect from cold at least (which I hear is a common issue). Once she warms up she's always been spot on. I'm running 320 mains with 27.5 pilots. The problem I am having is as follows: I turn the fuel petcock to on with fresh, 32:1 mixed 98RON fuel, flick the ignition switch, and turn the key. I kick 3 times softly, then with full force. This pretty much always does nothing, so I put the choke out to max. After 15-20 kicks, she will splutter up for a few seconds, struggle to reach 1/3rd throttle, then splutter down and stall. Occasionally I get her working for long enough to get a ride in. When I do, I leave the choke out for 5 mins. After this period she runs pretty perfectly. A few notes which might help to diagnose the issue: She runs better when hot. Pretty damn well. When I go to low throttle when the engine is warm, she still struggles to stay operating, and I never used to have this problem. I recently installed the vForce 4 reeds. The bike has never idled comfortably warm or not. I have to feather the throttle. I recently did as the Clymer manual suggested and turned the air screws to 2 turns out. Didn't help. A few ideas I've had, if you can throw me on the right track I'd appreciate it: Maybe the jetting at low throttle was slightly on the lean side to begin with, and the reeds installation maybe I've pushed it too lean. But reeds are meant to make your bike richer, so this doesn't make much sense. Maybe I didn't get the seal correct and there is an air leak in the reed assembly. This would presumably make it leaner. I have heard of issues with interchanging the float bowls from each carb. Perhaps I inadvertently switched them over when I cleaned my carbs? Help! I am heading out on a trip soon. A recon trip with the purpose of getting her running perfectly. I have a long 5km stretch of flat road to plug chop on, and I have a few spare pairs of spark plugs. I would like to get her starting fairly okay before I go on the trip, so that I don't get down there and realize that it's something other than jetting. Thanks for any help.
  9. I have recently installed new reeds and cleaned my carbs comprehensively, as per Clymer manual directions. I took her out for a ride today and she ran like a dream for the first half hour. I turned it off to walk up and see the terrain up ahead, and when I turned her back on she revved really high all of a sudden. The throttle is really loose to half way, then immovable after. It sort of gives me throttle based on how much I apply it, but is sort of random and may jerk off on its own. The throttle does something, but it's not at all a smooth acceleration. Then it hits about half way up the throttle and it won't let me push it any further. Acting very erratically. Any suggestions on what might be the issue? Can't be a seized cylinder because exhaust comes out evenly from each pipe. I took off the air filter and had a look in, the throttle valves on both sides seem stuck in place. Is this what a TORS event feels like? Any ideas? Thanks.
  10. I custom built a gaming PC in 2008 when 1AUD=1.20USD. Those were the days. Now it's 1AUD=0.70USD, and the USD hasn't picked up value. We've just dropped. Makes these projects so much more expensive. And you're spot on about postage, I can't buy books off Amazon even as they are always $30+ to ship. I got a (fucking mint) swag sent to me from over east and it cost me $150 postage. Easy to forget Australia end to end is LA to NY, but without any of the infrastructure, and no option but 2000km desert to cross. Postage is expensive for this reason. Doesn't help living in the second most isolated capital city on the planet. Thanks I'll pick em up mid next week and chuck some pics on here
  11. Wow, very inexpensive! If my local store stocks them or can get them in I will, otherwise I'll unfortunately have to go for the vForce 4. Going back to the image in the OP next Friday and I wouldn't mind having it all set up for then.
  12. Hmm, maybe I'll stick a second light up there, much smaller wattage. I'll need new cage for vforce4 but not Carbon Tech? Yeah mate.
  13. Winter in a town of 250 with a coastline of 100km+ makes for some remote riding. Shit all out there. I've been pretty fortunate in my location. So have you, Oregon must be great! Thanks for the reply. That setup looks sweet. I had originally planned to have one on the bars so I get better coverage when turning. Do you recommend? How might I obtain a stator from sheerider1026? Just PM?
  14. UHF/CB Radio I would like the following: Headset into my helmet Microphone into my helmet Push to talk button on left handlebar I have seen UHF radios for your car which have a wireless push to talk button you can strap to the steering wheel. I would prefer something similar. Preferably handheld, but I am cautious though willing to consider some sort of inbuilt option if necessary. Basically, I want a proper radio setup.
  15. Hi, as previously detailed, I have a 2013 Yamaha Banshee w/ FMF fatty pipes, powercore 2 silencers, toomey 2:1 filter, +4 timing plate, etc. This time around I am upgrading the electrics. Specifically: Speedo/odo/tach Permanent battery As bright an LED light bar as is feasible. UHF/CB solution New reeds (not electrical but I have the current ones out anyway so why not) Money is a moderate issue, same as before. I am probably willing to splurge to an absurd extent anyway, like before Thankfully I now have a Clymer manual, so maintenance and repairs have been going much easier recently. ___________________________________________________________________ Speedometer I've found a speedo/odo/tach I like: the Trail Tech Vapor , so that's sorted. I was intent on getting one which measures the wheel revolutions rather than using inaccurate GPS and the such. Plus a tachometer, temps, and hour-meter will be helpful. I'm an information guy. ___________________________________________________________________ Battery The permanent battery I hear I'll need to do a DC conversion for, but I'm a little unsure on whether I need a rectifier/regulator and what exactly I need to do. Would very much prefer to not have to upgrade the whole stator. Please advise! ___________________________________________________________________ LED light bar The light bar I'm split on. I would really like to throw down $600 on this Baja Designs OnX6 10" bar, as it produces 11,000 raw lumens and has both spot and wide LEDs. That said, there are a lot of ~6000 lumen (effective too, whereas BD quotes raw) light bars out there on the cheap - sub $150. Any brand suggestions in this area would be well appreciated. Will such a light bar (101W) work with the battery? I hear the stock stator produces about 70W in total - I don't mind relying on the battery so long as on net I get about an hour before a flat. I can then just recharge it at home for the next outing (or not use the lights until it recharges). I want the brightness to be truly absurd for an ATV. I want to have better lights than any of the decked out 4wds I happen to pass ___________________________________________________________________ Reeds Pretty sure about the vForce 4 reeds. May as well get your perspective. ___________________________________________________________________ So yeah, any advice you can offer would be much appreciated. This is pretty early into my research, but I thought I'd drop a line and fish for some solutions. I will take pics as I go and keep you updated. Thanks.
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