sleeper06

Yahtzee tricked, only thing I like wiseco are pistons, and I've been have some issues with them over the last six months. Squish test have been all over the place from piston to piston

That's def a blaster, on a side note I've seen a shee engine with custom sleeves/pistons/head to fit into a class at dirt drags . It was in a 250 class and a 14yr old girl was dominating the class on it

I've done this countless times with professional results

Pull the head, take a pic of head gasket install, let's make sure head gaskets on rite. I only use oem head gaskets when using stock head, I've seen some pretty shitty n flimsy head gaskets out there. Pull the cylinders n studs then oil cylinder walls down real good. Take ascetone on a red scotchbrite pad and clean all the Black Death off of the mating surfaces. Post pic of clean surfaces. If fucked up find super flat surface (granite block) tape 100 grit paper to granite and work cylinder in a figure 8 pattern making sure you count your circles to repeat on other side . Finish up with 400 grit and use same process on head . Buy a mock up set of gaskets to measure squish . If squish is too tight adjust with thicker base gaskets.

You said 64.25 bore n 7 mill, either it's an old set up or your given the wrong info

If your cylinders are ported stick with a wiseco, if your ports are altered n u throw a super stock in there you could end up with a turd or a raped ape, do you like to gamble

I only use wet system

Let us know how that jetting works out

Give it more fuel

What are you gonna be doing with this bike, intended use effects how I set timing and how I jet an engine

How about the bowls

Also carb bowls are side specific if there on wrong it will give a hard start

Also squish reading is very important, I've seen quite a few his domes need to be changed out to get a desirable number with a slight divergence.

Let us know static compression when you get her assembled. I would run straight up race fuel for break in and start with a 350main. I'm assuming it's an hjr port job, if so don't be surprised if you end up needing bigger than a 30 pilot. Due to the way he tunnels the transfer area I've seen a few end up needing a 35 pilot

55 pilot, start at 175-180 main and work down after break in. Needle 4th clip

Make sure they clearance them properly as per pistons boxes. When they come back from bore check ring gap if cylinders are correctly bored ring gap should be between.010-.014.

Another example why wiseco shit is junk, can't even press bearings on the rite end

Maybe it's the pic but looks like flywheel snout is on clutch side. Either way most non oem crankshaft are interchangeable simply remove oring and clip n reverse them. Also if there is a full clip on the bearing test fit the cases, I've seen quite few instances where the clip slot in the cases are not deep enough for whatever clip is supplied. This results in premature bearings explosion and cracked races . Then you will be building it twice

Cranks backwards

Stop running that ratio, I know the bottle says you can. I take apart a ton of engines and can always tell when someone is running funky ratios. Run the dominator at 32:1 and your crankshaft will thank you. Your internal parts depend on that oil . If your looking for performance gains look somewhere else. Just my opinion.

Temp outside will also gives different readings.. pull the cover I've seen water n moisture give wacky readings

Yup pretty close, might want 380's to break in

Put tester on kohm

Yamalube 2r does a decent job and is used in snowmobiles so cold is not an issue and it's cheap compared to other

I like dominator for cold , klotz supertechniplate above 45*