sleeper06

Lol guns, all cranks I had laying around are gone. The people that got them were the ones that could follow instructions given. All the others that couldn't follow directions got no response. This is how I weed out

I personally like a high blowdown engine. I would leave the transfer roofs alone, lower the floors to bdc. Put ex between 194-196 . Use the ex port shape we talked about and you'll have a nice engine wit good power delivery that pulls gear effectively after peak rpm/hp

Break it in nice seat the rings and have fun, it will run better n better as it breaks in

I always gap plugs, especially your monster set up , it's a must

Should be low 150s high 140

It's crazy how these things are more expensive than cars to build in most cases

Shoulda started rite the fuck up. Glad it got put together. Make sure you gap the plug .018-.020 . I guess pressure test went good? Have fun on that new yami

If I give someone a price and you don't get back to me I am assuming you don't want it and it goes down the line. This is why I would like to text you and don't be afraid to say not interested, I would rather that so I keep it moving and not hold up anyone else

Yes I have 4 mills

I also grind on the thumb throttle to allow more pulls

Moe just tried sending you a Pm but wouldn't let me

I use cc specialty right angle and straight pieces, nothing wrong with starting out pneumatic I did and there cheap 80-100 . The benefits of the cc tools is you can get forward and reverse bits to eliminate chatter in certain spots and more low speed torque control with the foot pedal imo

If any hq members are in the market for a crank let me know I have quite a few laying around. All cranks are completely torn down rebuilt with new bearings and true/welded to the gnats ass . Hit me up with your configuration and your cell number

They always run amazing before they pop. See if you can borrow a known good one or use the one you got on a known good engine. Stock bore, what was the piston to cylinder clearance? 8 times outta 10 stock size pistons won't work and you need to bore it .010. If you just jammed pistons in you could have excessive clearance and it ran good until the rings finally lost there tension. What was the ring end gaps?

If you have the ability to rechamber and cut the head to get desired squish go for it. Get a cpl head gaskets and do it up . 2 mm spacer and .020 bases gaskets will get u up around where you need . With the 4 mill crank you don't need to raise transfers much but I do like my blowdown a lil different than others

Before you get ahead of yourself, do you plan on running stock pipes?

You really need to pressure test it and compression test it at this point. If that air screw cam out while riding you could have damaged the piston on that side. No sense chasing your tail if those two things don't check out

Nothing wrong with a cycle or two

Anytime, this is why we don't just throw parts at problems, a Lil patience and systematic approach and things fall into place

There's a very small tolerance with an oring fit could be worn and your eyes still not picking it up

90% of shee motors I work on have cracks like yours. As zilla said if oring is worn replace if you want get the billet one

And Jason this isn't directed towards you just an example how easy shit can get fucked up

It sounds crazy but this why I don't guarantee work unless I assemble it , too many things can happen and then you get marked for life as a bad builder. I also give detailed instructions on how I want it assembled

They look fucky, do what green said , then unbolt them lay them on the table and draw yourself a center access line in both directions check off your lines and check kingpin on the flat table. Knowing you the table is Level

Sorry when you said shed it brought back memories of sneaking my shit in n out trying not to wake anyone