That engine is pulling fuel very efficiently and a strong signal, judging by the final jetting. Just my opinion but you may benefit across the board from bigger carbs . What needle are you running
I've fixed more than I can count, if it's really bad I usually cut it clean off put a smaller pipe inside as a sleeve, drill some holes plug weld it and surface weld , grind it and it's undetectable after paint. As blowit said heat is a must , big cheater bar or pipe and go slow. You need to tear that bitch down get rid of anything bent that will throw your eyes off then get frame level using your bottom rails as a starting point. It really depends on your level of skill and patience . If your doing it yourself a new frame is not a bad idea but if I'm working on a customer bike it's cheaper to have me fix it compared to tearing down and swapping everything .
Get inline spark testers. Ohm out caps, coil, stator , check pickup gap, sync carbs with vacuum gauge . It could very well need more fuel or idle circuits could be clogged, they are a needle sized hole
Yes , that's pretty much nasty racing motors and sheerider setup . There bikes scoot pretty well. Ex width shape and time area will Also come into play as well as transfer volume. I also like certain dome configuration. In short no issues at all
Wsm makes a banshee style 66.50 or like said switch to blaster pistons. I see where your coming from tho if you can send me pics of the damage to cylinders I'm wondering if a home and wsm pistons would work wsm is slightly larger than wiseco in some cases. I usually go to wsm with my gauge and take the largest one even tho there all pretty close
Makes sense why the plugs were backing out now. I thought through text you sent me squish numbers. I should have had you send me the solder , I would have picked up the converging angle with my mic
Oh boy you had me scratching my head like wtf. I'll take those cylinders back if there useless to you. I will tell you this those cylinders correctly set up will outrun a serval. Brandon the duration was 195-196 with 35 blowdown, not optimal for that pipe but I've used them before also. What really got me was how he said the gear revved instantly and I know with my porting and those blowdown numbers it should feel like turbo when it gets on the pipes and over rev better than most. It just sucks you never got to see the full potential of those cylinders .
My travel season is over and I will gladly take the bike and figure it out for you. Me personally would run shearers on that set up the lrd could be heat soaking the cylinders or incorrect signal which would explain why you could throw 410s at it and it still be lean . I have done 100s of 4 mill stockers and never had anyone disappointed with port work so I would love to see what the deal is. I also have every pipe known to man on hand so I can see what works best. I feel for you .
Get yourself a sync tool. Do you still have the tors caps or is the tors removed? . A pressure test will tell you a lot and new gaskets doesn't mean no leaks. It's a must on a 2cycle engine.
Get up to a 32.5 pilot, lately it seems like everything I tune is taking bigger than usual pilots. This could be a fuel problem with the high ethanol lately
Not to sound like a dick but that combo doesn't scream bad bitch. It's pretty much what everyone has that has bolt ons. You would have way more power with porting, stock electronic,stock carbs, better pipes like shearer or CPI. I wouldn't waste money on carbs or cdi without porting.
With shearer on stock setups I've found on few engines they've wanted the stock 25 pilot. This may or may not be your issue. Those pipes will pull a high signal through stock carbs, I also run a 300 main usually
#1 make sure pilot circuits are 100% clear , my jet drill kit came with a really thin needle like tool that fits perfectly in the snout of the carb down the angled hole in front of slide. I've had a few engines do what you describe. They needed bigger pilots with the porting. Don't get hung up on everyone else's pilot sizes keep giving her fuel