sleeper06

That guy got hosed on every component he bought or is exaggerating the prices. If he did pay those prices I need him as a customer

Your buying it to add to your plastic collection arnt u

Do you have a certain shape you start with to base the paper clip off of

Can u check ur jetting, is the air box lid on

What pipes? What jetting? What fuel? What filter/box combo ?

I was very surprised how well that little blasty ran. It was for a 12 yr old , one of my sons friends. That little machine held its own against anything he ran, the kid is def a good rider for his age . I converted the braking system to Banshee components and stepped up the control arms and suspension. Ended up being a well balanced machine with power like a 250r

I'll tell you what , last time I ported a blaster I had to remove a ton of material to get to my liking. I ran a shearer pipe and a 35 pwk

You would probably get 4500 by me to the rite idiot

Doesn't sound normal but hard to tell from words what your experiencing

Good question for RU, he might have a trick

Friction welding is some sick shit

Why can't you get the niche to work, from the pics I've seen they need work but still usable

Not exactly, I work the windows and areas rite before also but knowing how much to take out comes with time behind the wheel. I like an engine to freight train.

I use the tunnels as a funnel, with this theory I've seen engines that overrev much better and effectively pull gear past peak. I'm sure someone will disagree but this works for me . I've seen a ton of different porting styles and ridden all types. I've noticed engines with hogged out tunnels never really pull out the back door and fall flat way quicker than one of my engines. I'm guessing they went big enough they compromised port velocity

They can be saved and ported too your desire.

Basically I I cut an Msr lever about an inch or so , welded a Lil nub so my pointer finger has something to grip 4 light two medium or heavy springs. Adjust cable to engage to your liking

Slow wheelies took a bit of practice, but I raised the idle a lil and mastered the clutch, I also modified the lever so I could one finger it

Usable torque vs rpm range

Back when I was a wheelie boy we used to go by exits on the parkway. I did close to 3 miles a few times then it gets boring. This was on a 4mill stock cylinder with my wheelie port job ,+4 timing,mull engineering pump gas head. Fmf fatties , stock carbs, rear brakes controlled off handle bars. I ran the idle higher than most and the clutch cable a Lil more slack than most to make slow wheelies a lot easier. Slow wheelies require a good feel for the clutch and the ability to operate it with one finger in unison with the rear brake

Every port is different that's why you pipe to port, try different shit till u find what works best. With those durations I have a hard time believing it made as much power as it did , I was really surprised

I've also shipped to many countries including Greece with no issues, as a matter of fact someone over there has a set of my cub killers.

The under tank unit I had problem but the front mounted was ok

I like them on trail machines. Note to whoever buys them . Your CDI needs to stay a minimum of 8-10 away or you will experience interference and will cause you to chase your tail with jetting

I would say your blowdown is too low and possibly your time/area on ex port.

I have honed nikasil many times with no issues, the key is finding the rite home shop with the rite home. Have them put a lil pattern in there to knock the glaze off and so the new rings will seat properly. Make sure there are no areas where there was metal sharing going on