sleeper06

Put new plug caps on and change your packing in your silencers just to start fresh

300 mains,27.5 pilots,1turn out on screw but adjust for nice idle,needle in the middle till you see how she acts

Air lid on or off

I dont know much about the snipers,last night was a true test for me for the R2s.I just recently finished a 4mil stock cyl drag port for a buddy that coming racing w/ me.I put this motor w/35mmpwk,R2s,180lbs of compr agaianst a 4mil cub w/35s and shearers both have similar set-up I built both,granted my boy can ride but he shit all over that cub last night multiple times.My piont is the R2s are tested in my book they hold rite next to shearers in a drag race and didnt fall off,dont know about dyno numbers but they feel good.I like the design but am not crazy about the whole slip together o-ring thing

Is any one off the site going to dirt drags in pa for laborday weekend.Im taking 4 bikes down there for three days of racing,im pumped and its been too long.Let me know if youll be there

I run 39mm pwks on my stock cyl,my bike flies but I also make alot more hp than you,your motor might not need 39s who ported it

Absolutely no problem,I have built three bikes this way its the other way around that gets sticky lock-up no overide

Also you want your compression to match what your your doing with the motor,If your stringing this thing out in the 1/8th it will pull better on the lower side of compression.Its not a fact but its what I have seen on paper with my motor in the 1/4.Timing comes into play on the big end also

I dont know if any one asked but did you seal the keyway by the primary drive gear,ive only seen it leak 3 times on teardowns but its still a shot

I have also done this to a few motors but they were my close friends that wanted all the stops pulled out on a build and new the risks.One motor is still running after 3 yrs,we only dragrace,we pull them off the trailer line them up run and go home,I would say hes got a 100 passes on it no problem.I say try it if your a tuner like me it wont be the first thing you blew up.

Tedder advise to me was 19-8-10 american racers sd23 compound,they work.........

16cc domes are drastic considering your at 180 with 20s,is the crank welded,if not your asking for trouble when you get that high

Rounded dogs and possibly back cuts on sliders are worn,they might visually seem ok.I know wcr reconditions trannies and if you can get a hold of him he prob has an answer for you

Everyone allways says low hours,its the heart of the motor be carefull

Plus if the retaining clip isnt on the drum it will bind,and the sprocket collar tight makes a diffrence ,motion helps too

I use plumbing solder works perfect

How are your reeds?need a leakdown

I just put a 2-1 on a heavily ported motor,it plug chopped at 200 main jet a hair rich,You might be masking an air leak problem with more fuel and shees a dud now

Some people argue it but I glue everything

Fresh motor?Bend a p[eice of solder with a little kick on it,put it through the plug hole toward the side of the cylinder,feel the point where the wall meets the dome with the solder then kick.Measure with a caliper

I dont know about modding a jet smaller,have you tried syncing the carbs with a vacuum guage($15).It will idle weird if the carbs are not synced up,just a thought.35 pilot is as small as they come for those carbs

Clean the carbs get it running,then check the comp,I have seen rings stick from gummed oil when taken apart everything looks good

Air leak,piston to cylinder clearance is messed up,dirty,.Coolant leak caused to run hot burning up the rings.Do a pressure test and comp reading before you tear it down so you have an idea what went wrong

They have to be made,but it helps on asphault,my back used to kill me after a day at the track

Its $90 by me for 114