sleeper06

With those pipes at sea level i ran 340 mains,27.5 pilots,needles 4th clip from blunt end,might be a lil rich depending on porting might go to like a 320 but start rich you might need it with the pods

the pic in my sig is old it has black spindle mounts now

Huge diffrence in my bike,torque is very impressive,looks killer.I wouldnt hesitate at all

List your jets mods,do a pressure test,6lbs-6min,coolhead?

Love my oofs

5n7 is a stock needle,is the other longer or diff taper,just read your mods,put the stock needle in in the richest postion,I had the same set-up on a few bikes ,those pipes liked 30 pilots ,needles all the way rich,2 turns out at sea level,+4 timing,

Im confused single carb set-up or not,if single try 190 main,45 pilot that would be closer,even 195 to be safe and work down

When I went from shearer ins to oofs I changed nothing,both silenced

A lock-up might seem like alot of money but a few fried clutches and its paid for

My advise on break-in is run your needles/pilots a lil fat so when you let off the needle stays out of the hole longer allowing fuel through.I run my drag motors that way and havnt had a problem.In my opinion your jetting sounds pretty dead on but for break-in I always run the 1st tank through fat and then jet after my rings have found there sweet spot

Get the FAST clutch.It will hold up but anythimg with decent horspower 90+ will fry clutches drag racing on asphault ,I dont know what type of riding your doing.I built a 90+ hp cub with a fast clutch,I just tore it down for an overide and put a two year old clutch back in,but he dirt rides,.

320 main,27.5 pilots might be rich with that lid on

You need stock intake boots?I have them for days Shoot me a pm you pay shipping and there yours

Fattys like a big pilot,try 30 pilots,stock needle all the way rich.plus 280 shouldnt be that rich I would look into plug caps or ignition underliying problem why your not burning fuel,

My suggestion is use a street bike swinger,newer style for a wider tread,Its not going to be easy but i have spliced swingers before along as you can weld and fab no problem

how about exhaust packing,just recently a cub i re built finally started making power after its rebuilt/tune the oil soakled packing on one side would smoke like crazy,i say change the packing

those forks were wearing for a while did you put new forks in when you assembles the motor

The billet bowls I have on four diffrent machines, dont extend down much but are wider in areas needed If your on alky get-em or if you run long distance.I run the 1/4 and my motor on 39mm pwks will suck the bowls dry

His motor is pretty unmodded,let us know jet sizes,needle type

sit the caliper in there measure, go to ace hardware some peices and cut/grind to your spec if you go off someoneelse for a ballpark cool but double check

I live in long island a very similar community,my quad has seen dirt once,I ride on the street daily !These cops out here are looking to fuck us every chance they get.They have tried ti hit,knock us off machines in the past when stopping for them.Its no lie I hate cops,not all cops because i have family on the job but the ones that have become copified assholes due to there job!!!I dont know why I chimed in I think its cause I just hate nyc cops and feel for ya

Its not going to be anything like your fast motor,stage on is a clean-up port

The welds are easy enouph to overlook being its a used crank and fixing it no issue but the chunks out of it worry me,crankworks can fix it but your talking more loot,sucks bro,I even questioned him on an item im glad I didnt buy anything

I have had a flywheel go bad once and i chased my tale for a little,to me it sounds like a coil issue try swapping with a known runner

It is 6 psi for six min