sleeper06

75 pilots are off I would try 30s,how does it idle is it dull.I just built a 4mil drag port ended up with 420 mains,32.5 pilot,needle second clip from top with rocket pipes.Im not too familiar with mikunis but this guy had them allready so i made them work

Its very labor intensive,You need to bore the old sleeve out(not press it)then line up sleeve and drop it in.I was told 300 a cylinder

100% there talking 90hp with mild porting(supposidly) end bottom end that puts a four stroke down and screaming top end.if i had the money i would try it

Check to make sure there is a CEL needle in the slide,if not get two,there a leaner needle than supplied with the the carb and work well,also 38 pilot is the leanest pilot they make for the pwks.I would try the leaner needles first,plus they sell a vacuum guage for syncing carbs,Call jeff from fast numbers in my sig he can hook you up with everything including jetting info

stock bolts are 1" long ,an air leak can cause a starting problem but that compression worries more than anything,who bored your cylinders or did yo just get it honed.

I have a brand new never run blaster crank,2-piston/ring sets,whole bottom end,cylinder/head,crank bearing I have had this for two years tucked under my bench all parts were bought from FAST brand new since then I had a cleaning fit and chopped the blasty into 100 peices,ill do trades let me know Rad valve $75.00 never used with gaskets WSM piston with coating $50.00 Wiseco piston 66.25 mm $50.00 New oem crank and bearings never used in the bottom end $350.00 Clutch $20.00 Cylinder and head $60.00 orginal porting .020 boar Shipping will be determined once destination is finalized. I will make deals and consider trades! Mostly DRAG parts

Did you get the fuel leak to stop?Do you have porting?

I have only seen it twice but flywheels go bad too and cause backfiring when the magnets meet up again in rotation,Pressure test it bro,good compression and a tight motor are two diffrent things,the guage has a shrader valve in so it hold the pressure in(one way).If you have spark why are you changing everything,a spark tester is cheap(inline) and tells the true story on the kick.do the reed cages look good.Is all the TORS wiring eliminated?Its really frustrating but youll get it

I order the o-rings from fast racing and stretch it on ,they dont brake just use your head at the smallest pionts wiggle it on .I have done it many many times

What i do is write a bill of sale with the vin# on it listing you as the buyer for $300 so taxes are low,State that you have had the vehicle for three years and never had it registered but you figured you would go ligit,rememberto date the bill of sale three years prior or so.If you have been in possesion of the machine for more than two years they will give you a non-transferable regy till the vin clears as not stolen .The bill of sale can come from one of your buddies no problem,I do this shit all the time nobody ever has titles,also find the cute one and flirt away

good to hear

sounded like you were running on one at idle,I would almost bet your plug caps ohm out bad.cap tp cap with a meter i think its supposed to be between 3.5-7.0 but most come in at 5.5.You need new exhaust orings for sure.The pressure test is insurance that your not chasing a problem when jetting same with plug caps.I tune alot of peoples shit If I didnt build it gets three tests,pressure/comp/plug caps.I have chased my tale too many times because of neglectful people.Did you sink your carbs?

Is the choke tube in between the carbs,is the woodruff key in the flywheel correctly,is the pick-up coil gapped at .018-.020.Did you pressure test for air leaks,plug caps ohm out,jetting completely off

Im pretty impressed with the rockets r2s on a trail bike

direct drive cnc or ithink mattoon makes weld in kits if not call direct drive they will hook you up,also if you know how to weld nothing will fail or leak I did one with a syncrowave 180sd not even on the pedal all the way

I could be wrong but i thought pwks were 15-17mm i usually set them at 16mm,im also not fimiliar with smaller pwks

Dude said he has a t-rex thats alot going on,supposidly they pull fuel real well and dont need abnormally large jets.Take a pic of the bike and post it up mainly the motor/carbs.If there is one thing thats totally necesary its a pressure test,the whole process is listed in a sticky at the top of the forum and its rather cheap to build.Where are you from?You should be able to idle on a 50 pilot.Also check the plug caps if you get no response by leaning it out might have a spark issue.130 psi seems low on a trex build in my opinion,usually they are drag/race motors on high octane

You need a pressure test on that motor before you can jet affectivley,compression test,tell us what size domes,race gas/pump gas,timing,who determined the crank seals were bad and if so what other damage was done

wow is rite,exhaust is tiny

i would say 150-155 main 48 pilot,cel needle 4th clip,make sure your plug caps ohm out rite befor jetting or else youll chase your tail

165 main,50 pilot,cel needle 4th clip,might be rich a lil but safe.youll prob need to drop pilot but im not fimilar with your portwork hardcore/mx tell me nothing.for better answer we need to know compression,timing,fuel,jet sizes in stock carbs,and if you can find out motor specs like exhaust measurements in degrees along with transfers

I use three bond everywhere like stated above ,stock intake boots have a petrueded rubber ring that seals to the cage but i just dont trust it so seal it

I have had harness problems cause all sorts of issues,you def want to ohm out the plug caps,stator,get a diagram and check everything.You dont need many wires to run the bike,little nicks cause big problems

I have put together three clutches with a 1997 yzf 1000 street bike steels/fibers springs,It wiil hold up,I think the whole kit was $70 off ebay,this was before this site and site sponsors.People use these all the time on the street

Without seeing the other shaft its hard to tell which cut it is,def overridden though,cut drum with at least 1-4 overidden,no springs on forks though and it doesnt look dunable,if the front fork groove is cut almost 360 around the drum its a n-down ,also if the pin on the star has been redrilled