sleeper06

Those plugs were put in to get the sand out of the cylinder when they were casted at the factory.Put them in and dont cut corners!

Are you thinking its putting side load on the crank without straight cuts?What side seems to come apart and is it the same everytime?

I run a 1-4 overide with 5th,6th clutch on 4 diffrent bikes.In the 1/4 having 6th gear is nice.Robinson makes a 1-6 billet tranny thats supposed to be bukllet proof,I recently put one in for a friend it shifts ultra nice and you can choose diffrent gear ratios.I run all wcr trannies in my bikes.Your looking at $500 with new forks 4 wcr.Robinson your looking aT $2000 or better depending on options.

I have packing and rivets if you need dont self tap them,you will ruin them for any future resale

What did you mean by after the port work it wont hold air in the rubber plug

The intake will not effect compression,but exhaust/transfer heights/widths will.I have also had temps vary due to diffrent amounts of brak in lube in each cylinder,after first ride and cleared it out temps match

Im gonna go with its got rounded dogs,due to the due to the backcut on the sliders the rounde dogs will try to spit the slider back out but the fork is stopping it,without rounded dogs it would mesh and lock without too much pressure on the fork.You can send them back to whitaker for re conditioning,or buy a gear and I can mill it out for you.

Just dune port your cylinders,Your gonna have to sacrafice somewhere.With a 1000 budget your forgetting about everything around the hp. #1pull the crank get it trued welded with a maxlosd bearing- $100 #2new seal kit-$50 #3porting ranges from 350-550 depending on how drastic you wanna go #4pistons -$180 #5bore/hone,usually included if builder is porting and supplying pistons #6transmission if its making good hp it wont shift

with pump i wouldnt go crazy +4 is pushing it,race gas we run em as high as +11,but depend on porting and how its set up

Those are them,installed boot to boot i get around 5.5 on the norm

Who did the aggressive porting?Is the lid on the box.To me a ported bike should need more fuel than that,340,27.5,needle in middle to start,carbs need to be synced up and opening correctly

Maybe im wrong but factory spec sais nothing over 7.5 so if using resistor caps puts you over dont use them,i use parts unlimited caps w/ the clamps never had a problem,if it was me i would lose those resistor caps to much resistance will lead to a coil malfunction.Im an electricial by trade and when im troubleshooting coils and controls im costantly working off ohm readings,same consepts should apply,try it caps are cheap.Also might have trouble with lead touching cap

plug caps,ignition system ,it will have you chasing your tail,ohm the caps out

Sold ,400 shipped

Sold i want em ,got the money in paypal ill send it ,is it the same as your email on the site

I built a bike two years ago with these pipes on it,he is looking to go oof.Ill post pics up later after work 450 shipped obo

You can def accomplish your goal .Do you have a mill ?You need to get all the components together for mach up run everything on a degree wheel to figure out what to cut.Your prob looking at 50hrs of fab or better.The only thing that concerns me is the bottom of the exh/transf.7mil is allready lower than a 4mil to start,after milling you might be able to see a ring through the the ex port .I dont have anything to measure but a 4mil cub so it might be possible

I personnally have a set as trial peice,I dont have a dyno but have tried these pipes on four diffrent motors i have built in the past two months.all motors were ported and carbed.I have liked the way the pipe signs in and how early it signs in,you will have no prob trail riding or dragging .My advise is get them chrome rite away I wish i did.The overall design of the expansion chamber works if you ask me its the smoothest transition i have seen yet.With these pipes ,stock carbs ,stock modded trans,4mil,ported,my boys bike ran a 5.0 in the 300ft with realtors.They work

What are you talking about,axle/hub fitting.Do you have a new axle to or just a carrier?I have never had an issue and installed dozens of them im sure its just something simple you have been around for a lil

Im sure anothe companies tail pipe will just slip on find a buddy and try it

20 inch tire also that motor can def pull a bigger tire,6th gear on asphault,a tunable clutch system will give you your biggest gain, the first 60ft is everything

truy tapping the bowl with a screw driver to reset the needle/seat,if not take her apart and blow it out

From personal experiance 33mm pwks like higher jets I would try 165 mains 48 pilot cel needle on 4th clip,judging on dome size and compression your durations are up there so start at there,and ricky stator is junk but your def lean,I forgot im at sea level but that only one or two sizes I would still start there and work down

Thats why im leaning toward ignition

Take a rough measurement of spring cut a coil and pull it apart to regain original measurement