sleeper06

200 summer/220-240 winter,270 is rich.270 is with pipes air filter,

They run real hard and use a .040 over blaster piston which is more common then 68mm piston.Hp on a dyno im not sure but seat of the pants its neck and neck with my boys 421,same pipes/carbs/comp

whats your budget it adds up quik

With a DD style lockup you can really tune your 60ft times,cut springs,take away some weight ,pin it and hold on

Jets are not the same youll need a long hex jet and keihin pilots,cel are the type of needle,take the needle out when you get your new carbs and check the lettering on top,most people that run them have changed to them allready so it might have them allready

Its cold but 60 sounds high,wicked is rite with the mains 162 is safe to start ,i thought 52 area on pilot cel 4th clip

I would start rich at 340 main and work down if neccessary but its cold rite now.def 27.5 pilots 1 turn out to start needle 4th clip from blunt end.340 might be spot on in this weather but might need 320 in summer

It wouldnt run very well once you drill the dump tube there is no going back

The only trouble will be if you let it sit too long with oput getting pre mix through there to lube it up i have actually seen shit in the cylinders rust from sitting after carb cleaner was used

I have had many sets that were not the case but im pretty sure it was because of people prior 2 me messing with it

I have had so many race gas issues its unbeleivable,your head would spin if you knew how quik vp loses integrety and jams carbs

mine are low I have a 3/8 steel spacer,but im narrow in the rear so its not an issue,raise em up,I just made a bracket for cpis last weekend took about an hour and some 1/8 inch plate

Noss machine is a site sponsor look him up hes got you covered,or FAST racing

165,48,cel 4th clip

195-200 main,45 pilot not sure on those carbs but the 35s run an eek needle if i remember correctly

was he replying to the same topic,im cofused or i missed something but anyways looks great

I would try simple stuff first,pull the clutch cover look at the clutch,pull the shift shaft out n look for abnormal play in the rivet,make sure all the clips that hold the tranny straight are still in so the drum is not moving

Never just the thumb part but i have successfully put a jet ski carb on a banshee with the 2-1 manifold,my boy owns a performance jet ski shop and we did it for shits and giggles one night.Its not bolt on tho we had to machine a spacer/manifold.Those carbs blow away anything we run

race gas 108 oct or above,420 main,30-35 pilot needle in center to start

If your fouling plugs electrical could be the culpret unless jetting is totally off one size aint gonna foul plugs

check your gasket its prob a dry reed making the noise which meens that side is not getting fuel,so open up carbs and redueit

I personaaly like 145 psi for stock crank

You can do it both ways his kit probably came with a 2mm spacer with the double head gasket riveted too it.with that compression you need at least 108 octane or better.If you already have the cool head try selling your domes and picking up 22cc stroker domes and ditch the plate.The number for fast racing is in my sig he can send you them no problem.I have seen people mess there cylinder decks up from running both spacer plate and coolhead together.The spacer is made for an OEM head so if you have your stock head laying around use that with your spacer and it should kick around 135-140 and be safe for pump gas 91-93 octane

no porting or what?

.003 is the max .005 is gonna run but the unwanted vibration can work its way into everything