bigblockbanshee

Like a diamond in the rough man, hard to find but well worth the $$$ and the time if and when you do find one. Looks stunning!

A hot razor blade does wonders as well.

Seems like someone else on here was looking for these clamps a while back...

If it were me I'd leave the plastic alone. I'm not a terribly big fan of cut fenders although on some color schemes the cut look seems to look better. But, if I had a chance to have one as stock as that one I'd leave it that way. I'm just a sucker for a nice looking stock 'shee I guess.

Looks great. I don't envy anyone that has anything to do with seat covers. I've never been so pissed off in all of my life as when I was putting mine on.

If the stuff is in decent shape I'd use it. If not just take it easy until you can get new ones. Either way I'd put Loctite on the threads if you have it. Yes, the tabs will keep the nuts from spinning but a little insurance in this area never hurts IMO. You'd be surprised how easy stuff like that backs off with the amount of vibration going on, sorta acts like an impact gun does.

It's a simple process of elimination. If you've got the right amount of fresh fluid in with no air, the pads are good, the calipers are free, and the master cylinder is good, the only thing left are the lines/hoses. Sounds like you've got everything else covered so do you have stock rubber ones on now? I've not looked into the 450 calipers but I've got a 450 master cylinder for the front with Speedline'z braided lines front and rear on mine. I couldn't ask for better brakes. All it takes is a twitch of the lever and she grinds to a stop with ease. I've got maybe an inch of travel at the lever and I can't squeeze it any further. You'll have to weigh out the costs but I think my front lines were something like $65-70 shipped. Well worth every penny IMO.

From what I've heard: T5 is just an updated version of the T4, T6 is best for being first bolt-ons for a stock bike, i.e. no porting, no big-bore or stroker motors. I don't have personal experience with the 4s or 6s but my T5s run strong IMO. Personally, I never understood how you could mass-produce a pipe (T6s) that wasn't made for other mods such as the ones I listed because everyone knows that you can't just stop with pipes and jetting, it eventually goes way beyond that. Again, this is only what I've read on here so take it with a grain of salt I guess. If it were between only these 3 choices it would definitely be T5. Straight from Toomey site: T6- This all new pipe, designed specifically for the standard non-modified Yamaha Banshee Engine, creates more low-end and mid-range power AND peak power than any other pipe design available.

Rocky Mountain ATV back in '06 or '07 is when I got it. Paid about $65 or 70 shipped for it. Wonder if anyone else has ran into this?

Pretty sure mine is 13/41. All I've got is a set of T5s, timing at +4, 22cc domes, stock bore/stroke, no porting, and stock carbs (230 mains/25 pilots), K&N/Proflow, with 20" HDs on the rear. I'm still running the lid and snorkel too because where we ride there is plenty of deep water. It's a heavy mofo too especially with me on it at 250+ but I can get down and bog it like a 4-poke and spin it up with ease.

If you know how to use a manual? That's pretty phucked up when this has nothing at all to do with knowing how to use the manual. It's pretty self explanatory if you've got half of a brain. The argument I was making was the pictures, not the diagrams or schematics, not even the text like you seem to be implying here. The pictures are dark and unable to be deciphered where the ones in the Clymer are very clear and small details are clearly noticeable. Here, have a look at what I'm talking about... Yamaha Service Manual- Honestly, can anyone see what is in these pictures? Every picture in the manual is like this. Clymer- Much better than above and they are all this clear. No matter how much you "doctored" those first two pictures there's no way they could be understood, especially to someone that relies on a service manual in the first place. Those of us that have been through a Banshee a time or two no longer need the manuals and it becomes second nature. The text in the manuals is similar but the Clymer speaks on more of an understandable level where the Yamaha manual speaks in a manner that requires you to know halfway what's going on in the first place. For what I paid for my Yamaha manual it should've came with a complimentary service technician to tell me what I'm looking at and official Yamaha letterhead to voice my complaints to corporate about the situation. About the only part of your post I agree with is the part about the price, they couldn't pay me to have another one. As for Firemann32's post, I have the service manual for my '07 R1 as well and it's much better than the one I have for the Banshee. I guess someone finally realized something was wrong with the manuals and fixed them by the time the latter ones came out.

Guess I'm a little different but IMHO the Yamaha manual is only good for one thing, the heat you get off of it when you burn the worthless POS. Get a Clymer if you wanna be able to see any pictures. The only thing I use my Yamaha manual for is the torque specs being in 2 different places in the back of the book, one for engine specs, one for chassis specs. Other than that it's absolutely useless, worthless, trash.

Where are you located?

Thank you sir, Stacman450 needed one desperately to keep from killing his case and frame on those creekbed trails. Thanks again!

It's all good man, as long as I can keep the 'shee in line lol. I purchased the skid for Stacman450 so he thanks you too. Payment sent!

I'll take the PRM full chassis skid. Sending PM now.

I saw a good "How-To" once on making your own boost bottle. It involves a couple of beer cans and I can't remember the rest because I was buzzing from trying to mass produce them.

Domes SOLD, keeping calipers for spare parts. This thread is done!

Domes SOLD!

FWIW I've still got my lid AND snorkel on lol. How's the twist throttle working out for you?

Just think what you could do with that airbox lid removed.

If you're doing that kind of riding then I'd say he's right on the mark. I gotta quit assuming everyone does tight, technical trails like I do lol. Heck I barely ever get past 2nd on 99% of the trails I ride. In that case, I don't really know what I'd do. There was someone on here that had a stock bore/stroke-based engine with some good porting that was laying it down pretty good at the dunes, can't remember the name though. I guess now the only issue is the budget.

So you're looking for midrange to top end, correct?

So what kind of riding do you plan on doing? I think I'd decide that first and foremost before I went and had a ton of work done and be making power that you can't put to the ground. My brother-in-law's 'shee, with the Herr Jugs Hardcore MX/Trail port, rips the tires to shreds and he's got pretty minimal work done. To have only a milled stock head, Chariot timing plate, Wiseco top end kit, and the port job it rips like mad, on stock carbs and 93 octane too.