bigblockbanshee

I'd like to see what terrain you guys are riding to be bending wheels in the first place. I've been over some extremely rough stuff and never once have I even had a mere thought of bending a wheel.

TTT

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Keep in mind that it's your whole package that comes into play when tuning for a certain area of the power band. I'm running T5s, no porting, and stock carbs with lid and snorkel both, mine has loads of bottom end.

Not sure how it does it or what the variables are of it but my T5s would've burned the left side in no time if I hadn't have trimmed them and I've also heard similar issues out of FMFs. I blended the curve and cut it straight down length-wise to make it look like the factory cut only about 1/2" more narrow to allow for clearance. It looks factory and leaves plenty of room for the expansion chamber as well. FWIW I prefer to leave the fenders on for more of a factory look.

Or just reorder the stock stuff and be done with it maybe? I had Cascade clamps on mine and not only did they not fit well with my combination but I couldn't get them to fit exactly how I wanted on the pipe/stinger so I sold them. I had a brand new factory exhaust stowed away that just so happened to have a set of stock rubbers and clamps on them and the rest is history. I haven't had a single problem with them since, they look factory because, well, they are, and there is tons more room to work around them than the Cascade clamps offered which is probably one of the better reasons why I prefer them over aftermarket.

ThreeBond 1194 here. Nice thin bead and after you torque the halves down it looks just like factory. People hardly ever realize how far this stuff goes until they goop it all over the surfaces and find after a tear down that it had leaked into the crankcase and transmission area.

The stock basket bushings can be replaced but you have to get really creative with how you're going to re-attach the plate/gear to the basket itself. It can be done and there is a write-up about it but for the effort you'll put into it there may be a bit more logic in just replacing the whole thing for a billet piece as stated.

I'm gonna step out on a limb here and say that the basket is what is rattling. Seems like it would make the clutch plates rattle as well. My idler gear had more play than that and it doesn't rattle in the least. Best bet is, like these guys said, find someone letting go of a billet basket for cheap and buy some new bushings for it. Presto, a practically new and ready to ride piece. Would've really helped to be able to hear it before tear down though.

Make sure everything is tight and there are no leaks whatsoever and keep trying. Keep plenty of fluid handy as well and keep the M/C as full as possible. I'm assuming you're doing it correctly in the first place...

TTT

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That's it. Your a$$ is getting reported for stalking me lol...

I totally agree, that's how I did mine for the first time just to get it fired up. Then I bought the sync tool and realized how far off I really was so that changed my mind right there. Not saying it can't be done by any means but it's one of those things where you have to have a very trained eye and ear to be able to get it right without the tool IMO.

And chicks weren't made for 14 inches either but that doesn't stop us from at least trying now does it lol? I'm actually having my own machined from some drawings I made that should flow about 50% more than what the EHS piece does. Once I get everything sorted out correctly and get it made I'll be sure to post up some pics.

Just curious, I searched EHS and EHS airbox and came up with nothing. I'm leaving my lid and snorkel on regardless because I ride muddy and wet areas so I need as much splash protection as possible. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EHS-Racing-banshee-air-box-yamaha-airbox-Outerwears-/120355111779?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c05b94363

I bought these a while back and never put them on because they needed new petals and I didn't wanna put anymore money into them. Looks like they have had a piece pressed into each valve, for whatever reason I don't know. The petals lined up correctly before I scrapped them so I know the alignment is correct where they have tried to fix them. One side looks like it has some sort of epoxy in it, again for whatever reason I don't know. Had I paid attention when I bought them I'd have complained but my 'shee runs fine on stock cages so I'm happy with it as-is. I couldn't see any problem in running them but as I said earlier I'm not putting anymore money into them when I've got a perfectly good set of stock cages. I tried to get the best pictures that I could but if you need more just ask. I'm taking a huge hit on these but hopefully someone will take them and use them the way they're meant to be. PM me if you have any questions or anything. Chris $75 shipped to US48

If there's any possibility at all of having to do this again (there is but you probably don't know it yet) then you should just go ahead and spend the money and get the sync tool. It's a great investment for anyone owning a Banshee and you'll never regret it because you then have the ability to get it correct every time you need to.

Good thread. I've got the same situation going with my Pro Taper bars and temporarily zip-tied it to the front brake line all redneck-ish. "Temporarily" turned into "permanently" when I couldn't find a bar mount to fit it. Keep the replies coming!

That's exactly what mine looks like. Did they change them over the years? Pretty basic system I thought...

Someone make me an offer.

That's cool, sometimes you never know exactly what people are talking about when they say a "white" tank. I was looking for a Clarke. Good luck!

Is the tank an IMS or Clarke? And when you say white that does mean the see through "natural" look right?

It's the same exact plug, just the wiring is a little bigger gauge. They plug right into the connectors in the first picture. All you'll have to do is cut the wires and re-attach them to yours. Sending PM now...