bigblockbanshee

Bump Will do $75 shipped for Pingel and mounting plate together. My stock petcock is fine for my type of riding.

PMUB

I've got one more set of domes left that I don't need so here they are. They are 18cc domes and are Pro Design-style, for stock bore/stock stroke-based engines. There is not one thing wrong with them at all. I was possibly gonna use them in my build but it runs good enough for me with the 22s I have in it so I'm trying to recoup some money from the build. Price is $35 shipped in the US. I will ship them international but for the exact shipping price. If you are international please PM me with your complete shipping address and I'll get you a quote ASAP.

Do you have the proper air gap setting between the flywheel and pick-up? If it's too far away it will cut out in the upper RPM.

I'd help if I were close lol.

Looks killer but IMO that bike was built for show. No human in their right mind would wanna get down and clean/polish all the goodies up on that thing after riding it the way it's looks suggest, not I anyway. That's why I have minimal chrome/polished stuff on mine, it's way easier to clean and keep clean.

Bump for 18cc domes.

Chain guide sold, still have domes. Come on, someone needs these 18s!!!

What is the diameter of the big end and is it possible to get an angle as well? Let me know, Chris.

Those that he has would be an excellent choice. You should definitely weigh out your options though. If you're doing a complete rebuild then I'd have the crank welded while it's out just for the extra insurance. If possible I'd do a 4mil but that's gonna be a bit more money especially with the killer deal that Infamous has going.

Ya I dealt with that 5 years ago when I tore mine down. It had been treated like the one it the right-side pic in my signature but the difference between me owning it and the previous owner(s) is that I washed it back down and cleaned it spotless after I got done with that ride. I guarantee you it had 8 year old mud caked up in places that mud shouldn't even get to lol.

Lol I actually just got done paying for the wrench set right before I posted that. I already have the torque wrench so hopefully I can get this thing torqued down correctly this time. Talk about having the rear end step out on you unexpectedly. The chain was probably the only thing holding tension on it and keeping it from going back through the carrier...

Bump, domes and chain guide still available.

Sorry to revive an old-ish thread but I can attest to this. I was just pushing mine around in the garage yesterday and found that mine had backed off until they were finger tight, even had Loctite on them. There must be a method to the madness indeed.

See signature below... I like the blue on white on most bikes but wasn't and still am not sure how it goes against the black chassis and suspension. My original plan was for all black or kinda a charcoal silver like my R1 with polished wheels and chrome T5s but I couldn't find OEM plastics that looked good enough and a new set was going to be around $500 for everything so I scrapped that idear. I'm sorta kinda looking for a silver radiator cover so I can get a clear or "natural" (as they call it) Clarke tank. Hopefully it will all blend a little better. Just your typical case of "I ran out of money and had to build it like it was" so here you have it.

Exactly what kind of front fender modding is necessary with the Clarke? I was looking to do this setup on mine with the clear tank and white plastics but don't have the fundage at the moment. That's a great looking ride by the way.

Use Engine Ice and keep it moving, gotta keep air flowing through the fins. Although if you can afford it, one of those Chinamen radiators works decently better than stock so I've heard.

If you're pulling the dipstick while it's running I'm 99.9% sure it's just oil slinging off of the clutch. I would probably save from doing that anymore unless you want a big mess. Not sure how it could be building pressure in the transmission area unless you've got a right-side crank seal leaking or somehow you've got a leak in the case halves themselves letting pressure get out of the crankcase. That's the only way it could be building pressure in that specific area, plus you have two vents, one right under the rear engine mount and one under the impeller cover on the clutch side so there shouldn't be any considerable pressure building up in there. My guess is that you could have an air bubble somewhere. Jack up the front end a couple of feet in the air or close to it and see if your coolant goes down. If not that then I'd look at the radiator itself. It's a pretty self explanatory system so if it's put together correctly and has no blockages or leaks then it has to work. Another thing, is it spitting out of the overflow all of the time or just when it gets hot? If it's all of the time then of course that would mean that you are getting compression into the cooling system and you'll need to tear it back down.

Not a problem, thanks for letting me know.

It's just the urethane or ABS plastic, not sure what material they use but it is plastic.