bigblockbanshee

The ones in the second picture are TORS control switches or whatever you call them. They mount under the tank beside the coil. I have an '06 harness that I put my '97 connectors on so I had to cut the triangle ones off, hence the first pic.

These? Or these?

The plastics still have some good shine to them but do have some faint white spots and some scratches, I can get better/closer pics if needed just tell me what you want. The front edges are slightly scratched per the picture but with some handy torch or heat gun work they may be able to be smoothed out. They have the usual rounded burns from aftermarket pipes that could be trimmed off if you wanted to keep the fenders on. There is nothing broken, busted, etc.. I would rate them a 6 out of 10 but I'm OCD when it comes to this stuff. Most all of the blemishes are on the fenders themselves. If someone wanted to cut them they would probably move up to about an 8 out of 10 IMO. I have no clue what kind of price shipping will be but of course if the buyer wanted the fenders cut off it would lower the price a bit. I could do a rough cut of wherever is specified and then let the buyer do the finish cut. As I said I'm sure this would easily lower the shipping price down quite a bit. The brackets are in good condition with some powder coat peeling off at the ends but otherwise look good. The price is $125 plus the ride for the front plastic and $15 shipped to US48 for the brackets. If I'm way out of the ballpark on the pricing just PM me if you're interested and we'll see what kind of deal we can come up with. I'm a fair guy and will work with anyone that has a respectful offer. They're not in my way and I'm in no hurry to sell so I'll keep them for a bit if I can't come up with a deal. They were a spare set I got for my 'shee to figure out whether I liked the white or blue better. Payment will be made through PayPal only and you can either add the percentage for fees or send as gift, up to you. Anyone that would like a shipping quote just PM me your address and I'll see what I can come up with. As stated, if you want better pictures of a certain area just ask. No trades please.

I speak for the HDs as well. My only complaints about them so far is how fast they wear and the thin sidewalls that ITP seem to be obsessed with. After being as picky about staying off of asphalt as I have been I'm finding that they're still wearing down the front edge of the treads fairly quickly after only 4 rides. And after only one ride on brand new shoes I got a slice in the outer sidewall of my right front tire, not quite what one would expect from a 6-ply tire. But after owning a set of Mud Lites on my Sportsman that had the same exact issue I'm finding out quickly that ITP makes a killer tire where the rubber meets the dirt but their sidewalls suck IMHO. I now have tubes in the front tires on my 'shee and that yellow Sportsman down below had tubes in all 4 just to try to avoid being stranded on the trail due to a thin sidewall. To be totally honest, next time around I'm thinking I may go with Maxxis or something else if I have any more issues out of these ITPs. For what it's worth though, the performance of them is second to none and I have nothing but compliments as far as traction and ride quality for a 6-ply.

My vote goes to "no bumper"...

I've always despised the thought of painting plastics but that looks pretty darn good if I do say so myself. I think I'm gonna take a trip to Wally World tomorrow and pick out some paint for these spare plastics I have laying around.

They're terribly overpriced on their website or I'd probably buy some to go along with my Alba grill hanging on the wall in my garage.

Get a louder exhaust...

Paperweight.

You guys are newbs. Everyone knows putting a little NOS in the tank will at least double the hp of any engine. Not talking about the funny-haha gaseous stuff either... There was a guy that did it on his Gixxer, poor guy ended up doing a wheelie and wrecking once he hit 7th gear.

Don't get ripped off. This is the same exact thing but has what FAST is calling the "adapter" installed and doesn't come with the bigger part... Bought mine early this year and it works flawlessly. Paid for it one day and received it in mail 2 days later, can't beat that with a stick if you have smaller carbs. I can't imagine that the larger boot would justify paying the additional $20+ for the one from FAST but that's only my opinion. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carb-Sync-Airflow-Meter-Dual-Carburetor-VW-Triumph-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ae12a10c8QQitemZ390324687048QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

I took a razor blade and cut the stripped insert out of mine. I then cleaned up the outer edge and down inside, mixed up some JB Weld, then just kinda dripped it down into the hole. I then took the insert, clean of course, and put it into the hole twisting it so it meshed well with the JB Weld with the bolt in it and lined it up the best I could. After all that I left it alone for a few days, may not be necessary but couldn't hurt, then came back and filed the top portion down flush with the outer edges the way it was from the factory and voila, my old tank has a new lease on life. Next go 'round I'll use studs instead of bolts or screws, that way it holds the plastic without the twisting force and the pulling force that a bolt or screw has. For right now I'm leaving it alone. I'm not one for using 2-part epoxy to "patch" something, matter of fact I hate the thought of it, but this is unfortunately the only outlet I've found for fixing this issue and so far it's worked well for me.

Odd question, would you let go of just the Outerwears pre-filter pictured with the airbox? I've got somewhat of a project going and need some Outerwears material. What kind of condition is it in?

Sorry I should've clarified that post. Im not saying that the difference in compression is keeping it from starting, it may or may not. I was only shining light on the fact that you have a one week old top end and already have a 20% difference in compression from one side to another which, if the work was done correctly, is completely abnormal and unacceptable. Normally I believe over 10% difference and one should get it taken care of by whatever means necessary, but that's usually over a time period of a year or more depending on how radical the build is. Start with the easiest being air, fuel, and spark, then move to mechanical issues if you're just wanting it to start. Personally I'd at least pull the head and left side carb, intake, and pipe so you can see the possibly injured piston, cylinder, and rings from all angles possible. Hope that helps, sorry for the confusion.

Lol

New top end or not, if the rings on the left cylinder got into the walls and scored or gouged them then it'll probably need to be redone or just scrapped if the damage is too bad. Was it a reputable builder or machinist that did them? Reason I ask is because if you leave a sharp edge on the ports from boring the cylinder it could "hang" a ring either bending it which would be bad on the piston/cylinder or break it which would be bad on the whole bottom end. I believe they're supposed to chamfer the ports somewhat after a fresh bore and hone to avoid this. What I'm getting at is the fact that I'm hoping the people that bored your cylinders knew this. This is all just speculation btw. It's hard to diagnose it without being there of course.

IMHO when you have it in the back of your mind that the Loctite alone may fail you can't keep a clear head while riding, at least I can't. And by the time you find, use, and replace self-locking nuts or Nylock nuts you could've just gotten a fresh set of factory locking tabs and be done with it. When dealing with torque figures like that on small diameter nuts and bolts you must torque them in sequential steps. Do a criss-cross pattern like you would lug nuts on a vehicle and torque them to maybe 10 first all the way around, then 20 or more, then maybe try going a little more. I'm not sure if I tried actually hitting 44 on my own but it was just easier to buzz them on with the electric impact, in a pattern of course as previously mentioned, but I made sure to use the locking tabs. As I said earlier, this isn't an area you want to skimp or slack in. This is where the locking tabs would come into play IMO. And FWIW the Yamaha manual says 43, the Clymer manual says 44. Seldom can you gauge 1 ft.-lb. difference. I haven't found many, if any, contradictions between the two manuals personally but as with any publication I'm sure there's some there. As for the case saver, most all of them are that way so I wouldn't see a problem using it. I've got the TM Designworks saver on mine and I'm certain it's the same design as yours, just a different material. Thing you gotta keep in mind though, if/when a chain breaks it WILL break stuff and there will be carnage. Just hope it's at the lowest speed/RPM possible if it does break.

One week on a fresh top end and you're already down 25 psi on the left cylinder? Hate to say but you may as well tear back into it and be prepared to do it all over again. Sounds like something may have gone bad with the rings on the left side. Maybe they got clipped by one or more of the ports in the newly bored jugs? Switch the plug wires and see if that helps. I'm pretty sure you've got internal damage though. Another thing too, I'm sure you've switched since break-in but 32:1 is pretty stiff if you're using good oil. Most guys run 40:1 including myself, some even run 50:1. That would explain some of the smoke but not all of it I don't think.

Timing? Didn't see anything about that in there lol. What cc?

I hope I'm not sounding too out of line here but IMHO your problem is the lug nuts and studs, not the wheels... I've never had a single problem with mine and never heard of any problems like this with the T-9 Baja wheels before. I put a dab of red Loctite on mine and buzz them on with a 1/4" Craftsman electric impact and they're just as tight now as the day I put them on. I do, however, keep them checked before every ride.

Just think of how much money you've got in your 'shee and how good it sounds/runs versus how much they have in theirs and that should perk you up a bit. Personally I'd just get out and ride the thing. I don't care how strong, powerful, or smooth the Banshee is when you take the new technology and geometry of the XX and Renegade and beat a 'shee that was designed in the late '80s what is there to brag about especially when upkeep/repair on 4-pokes is so much more expensive than a Banshee is. Then of course you've got the "cool factor" and there is and will never be another quad that beats the Banshee in that department. Ride YOUR ride and don't worry about others. Worrying about what others think or say is the quickest and most effective way to take the fun out of a hobby.

Never had any port work by Jeff but for some reason he took almost 3 months to weld my crank after being promised two different times and neither timeline was met. I suppose if I had the cash laying around I'd give him another try because I've heard some really good stuff about his work. I've seen and experienced Kevin's work and it is right up there in the top of the crowd on every level. I really don't think the guy sleeps at all since his turnaround time is so fast. Something like ten days from shipping out in TN to delivery and reassembly. He's a very generous person on the phone too and will tell you exactly what you need to hear (may not always be what you want to hear) without BS-ing you around. It's a toss up for me as Jeff is closer but I believe Kevin's turnaround is a bit faster. I'm voting for the coin flip between the two.