bigblockbanshee

LED light SOLD! Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

I also have stock sprocket and brake hubs that just need a good stripping and painting or powder coating. I'll do $15 shipped each for them or if the same person buys both I'll do $25 shipped because they'll ship in the same box. I dug up an aluminum front bumper I had gotten a while back too from someone that tried to put some paint on it and I assume decided against it because there has been paint stripper sprayed on and the paint is all wrinkled but it isn't finished. It needs a good sandblasting/stripping and recoating or you can leave it bare aluminum or even polish it if that's what you're into. Looking to get $35 shipped, probably $10+ will be shipping alone.

Sales pending on stock head and LED brake/tail light.

I just listed these here locally in mid-TN. I'm not interested in shipping them anymore, I don't have the time to mess with it. The new set-to-move price is $65 for plastic fenders and brackets together. I want them out of my way and I'm trying to gather up enough money for a 1-piece leather suit to drag a knee in. My zip is 38555 if you need to know where to meet to pick them up at. Chris

TTT, let's move this stuff out!!!

Sorry for the delay. I've been trying to get my R1 straightened out. It's a crappy picture but it works perfectly. I have had it sitting in a box for about 6 months so all I did was hook the wires up to show it working, not mounted or anything. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

I've got some stuff laying around that I'd like to get rid of. I'm pretty much trying to exhaust everything that I don't absolutely need because my one-car garage has 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag if you get the drift. All parts will ship via USPS Flat Rate unless you wanna pay extra for UPS/FedEx. I've never personally had a problem with USPS but I do understand that quite a few others have. Everything I have here should fit in a small flat rate box or envelope so we'll just say that shipping will be $5 added to the sale price for the lower 48 states. Also add in 3% for PayPal fees. I've not sold anything in so long that the fees may have gone up but the last I knew they were 3% so that's what I'm going with unless you want to send money as a gift. When you send as a gift you waive any protection that PayPal offers, just so you know. On to the business... Stock tie rods in good shape. Threads are good in both rods, both ends. $15+shipping, $20.60 after shipping and fees Stock head in as good of condition as can be expected. I was keeping it in case my cool head decided to crap out but I don't ride enough for that to happen. $20+shipping, $25.75 after shipping and fees Billet brake/tail light. LEDs burn bright blue, has 3-wire hookup for use as brake/tail or you can use only two wires just as a dim or bright tail light depending on which power wire you use. I'll post up pictures later on of it lit up. It's a really well-built piece as far as billet LED lights go IMO and works like a charm. I'd just rather have the stock one on mine for mudding and trail riding and such. $30+shipping, $36.05 after shipping and fees Unknown brand billet intakes with 34mm boots that are cracked and everything comes just as you see in the picture. Someone tried to put some kind of a backyard port-job on them for a 4-mil so I was told. I was gonna have them welded and re-cut to my own dimensions but I don't have that kind of time on my hands so they've been sitting for probably close to, if not over a year. $45+shipping, $51.50 after shipping and fees

Mineral spirits. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

75 shipped sound good?

Nice and clean LE, one of my favorites.

Just do it, you will not regret it whatsoever. The only thing I'd plan for is not being able to put the power to the ground efficiently if you don't have any rear suspension work done. Of course that depends on what type of riding you do as well.

Did you think I wouldn't find this thread? Phucking ruined those brand new-looking OEM red plastics...

I've got a PRM full length plate on mine for really rocky/stumpy woods riding and it's held up well. If I'm not mistaken I believe it's .180", maybe .125" I can't remember. If my disc and/or sprocket and chain had taken the beating that this skid plate has held up to I'd have been stranded on the trail many, many times. The only complaint I have with it is when the lower-link guard gets caught on things I mentioned above and I get hung up or somewhat "high-centered" sometimes because of it. I'm probably gonna end up modifying it or just removing that piece completely to remedy that issue. Other than that I have no complaints whatsoever and it's taken one heck of a beating. After riding with it there's no way you'd catch me on the trail without it.

Bumpage.

Ya, as you can probably tell, those break very easy. Don't ask how I know lol.

Did you confirm the correct gap on the pick-up and make sure the timing hasn't slipped (if it's adjustable)? As far as the coil goes, it happens all the time on older vehicles, can't rule it out on the 'shee as far as I'm concerned. I'd probably start checking plug wires too.

I wouldn't try it again. I'd probably try to find someone with a different brand of compression tester or just the adapters and see if they work. Provided the threads are clean, the adapter should thread right down into the dome with relative ease. If you force it you run the risk of damaging the threads in the dome since it's aluminum. For that reason alone I never got to check my compression before I ran my motor the first time.

You wouldn't happen to be trying to screw them into a coolhead dome would you? Reason I ask is I have a Craftsman compression tester kit with about every thread size out there and it won't work with my Top Notch Design 22cc domes. As far as I know the Top Notch head is identical to a Pro Design save for some aesthetics, but the domes, o-rings, etc. are the same. All I can figure is that it's a different grade of threads (tolerances) because the same adapter works with a stock head just fine. Hope that helps, sounds like you've got the correct adapter to me.

So what about the "Steel Factory Finish" pipes that Toomey sells, are they coated with anything or just bare? I've really like the look of those pipes from the day I saw them but not many people seem to run them that way. I didn't know if there was a reason for it or just not a popular finish.

Ya, what he said.^^^