2strokespirit

It's just bad luck. Someone please help me out here, I thought that the hot rods and wiseco cranks are 2 differant things??? There was a thread about cranks on the RD/RZ forum and it turned out that the wiseco cranks are made in Taiwan although the box says USA. I don't say its true, a lot of things are made in Taiwan these days, but I just don't like a "made in Taiwan" part. I have bought second hand cranks from e-bay, oem ones, that runs and still does after years. It also turns out that the vitos, wiseco etc are made from one company that makes these cranks for differant companies over the world. Maybe its true, maybe not, I know that some of these hot rods cranks runs for years, one of my mates has one. I heard the Yamaha conrods can take much more abuse than the others, that ha been said by a reputable builder, If I know for a fact that the cranks runs with bearings from taiwan or china, I would certainly buy the oem ones, don't care if there are 10 wiseco stickers on them. The hole story of a rebuild oem crank that is just as much or almost as much as a new Hot Rods crank are nonsense, EXCEPT if you have to replace the crankpins, in which case you have to buy the webs. I can rebuild a factory crank for under $200 here in my country, that includes rods, small ends and big ends from Yamaha and a set of mains from FAG, NSK or SKF.

I suppose you guys forum interface looks the sam as mine? The threads are not underneath each other. Why is this, maintenance? I don't hope its going to stay like this..

RZ parts availability is no a problem at all, or at least not for the motor itself. You can still buy the barrels brand new, the powervalves, the electronics, anyways I just order a cool head from pro design, they still make them...

I am a cross country rider, now and then some trails. I had to make a choice and I am busy to built a RZ. I will let everyone know how it runs when its finished. I know these motors well and bet its going to be a blast!!

I rode a blaster with a CR500 in it, man oh man...... needs to upgrade the brakes :yelrotflmao:

Allot of people will put the wrong float bowl on the wrong carb when rejetting. If you have the stock carbs, take your carbs of and you will see there is a passage that the one bowl has, that the other does not have, the float bowl that has the pasage should go on the carb that has the choke lever on. To make a test, when the bike is cold, take your seat of and choke the intake with your hand or cloth, if the bike starts you will know that the choke circuit does not work, and check the float bowls. If you cannot choke it for some reason inspect anyway. This ha been discussed many times on here and has solved allot of problems.

I run at 25:1, like keeping my motor lube, I do cross country, much more reliable. I run good quality Castrol power 1 fully synthetic. I do long shots of wide open throttle, NEVER foulded a plug, the exhausts tend to be a LITTLE wet if riding very slow. Wiseco, however do say on some of their 2-stroke pistons that you should mix a little richer for the first gas tank, I do believe there is a little bit more friction at run in periods, so mixing a bit richer is fine. At the ratio I mix, well, I don't because its rich enough. I don't care what who say, Yamaha who is a company that build these machine say in their owners manual run at 24:1. Why would they say that, for peanuts?. I know allot of people run mixture of 50:1 and way over, but I said this before, its much harder on ring and bearing wear, I did this tests with the same oils over the last 7 years. The ring wear on allot of these machine with the richer ratios are a lot less and don't tell me my air filter is sucking sand.. Allot of people also believe the crap of the less oil in your mixture the more hp.. This is true up to a point of about 1:32 if I am right with A Graham Bell did all the dynos on 2 differant bikes and 2 or 3 differant oils. The YZ125/RM125 delivered up to 0.2Hp more on a ratio of 20:1 and 25:1 over 50:1. I know alot will say, 0.2hp, what the heck, but it does show something...

LOL :yelrotflmao:

English is not my first language, but I cannot spell or use tenses correctly.... don't feel bad man..

I don't care what anyone say, but the longtravel, like yours and laegers. (there is more) is the KING of performance quads, when there is a 350 twin motor in it, its bad ass.. Enjoy that thing!!

Not sure what model you have, I have 2 31k models, they all red line at 10000.

With the zeeltronics CDI, no matter what pipes or carbs it revs to like 12500, with the pro-circuits on that setup there is still power up to 10000rpm and the PC sign off at about 8500 The RZs redline starts at 10000rpm, they say a Banshee/RZ crank can run reliable for HOURS at 10000rpm with the TZ bearings... I have raced with RZ powered karts and pushing them absolutely to the limits with a new Yamaha crank with no TZ bearing and it lasted more than a year, maybe my luck.. I know the RZ extremely well, racing them in whatever you can think of. They just do not rev over 10000rpm with the stock CDI, no matter what pipes and if you put a good top end pipe on, they will go to almost 10000. So if a RZ can do this, a Banshee can, I just don't think the mains and big ends will like this, but for a now and then, it should not be a problem. The most critic thing that won't like it is the bottom end... I will try to find the youtube link with the RZ/zeeltronic link.

I did say lol. Was joking because they are so durable.

I just visited the keihin webpage and saw that the airstrikers is only from 35mm carbs and up...

What should I get, the 33mm keihin pwks or the pwk airstrikers? They are not the same I heard, just curious what will be the better,or maybe will have an advantage over the other one. They will be going on my RZ project. Thanks

Yes.. but it all depends how high your exhaust port is..

Increase transfer ports for more bottom end and smoother , broader bottom end power delivery(note: the higher the transfer ports in respect to a given ex port height, the less explosive upper mid-top end power you will receive... 1 do not make them any wider in the cylinder, it will slow down the entering speed of gases into the cylinder, you can open it up at the base of the cylinder...

I know that just running a spacer plate is NOT the way to go with a 4mm, you do not gain allot of HP, but you would be surprise how much torque you gain.... If I had to do it again, I would go for the 795s with the cut domes and porting...

PCs to much of a dirtbike..... Bet you haven't ride a Banshee with PCs, so much low end torque and a good top end as well. I would say give it a thought.

I am sure my pro-circuits are made from Stainless? Damn, they have no rust or flacking after some years... lol I like them allot. You won't feel a differance in performance between them and t5s. I think they have the same top end, but more bottem.

I can assure you that after they stop making the banshee, you would be able to get the jugs for allot of years to come, especially from Yamaha. I can still buy the last RZ's jugs new from the factory... I talked to Honda SA and they say, after 10 years they discontinue their parts, so they sell what is left, but stop making them after 10 years. I just ordered a 73 Y-boot airbox to carb pipe from a RD250 1973 model and got that!!! (11 days from the Factory in Japan to my doorstep in SA) The frame parts is the first things they run out of... I have my own quad/bike shop and in my experience, no other company can beat Yamaha with older bike spares availability and I am a Suzuki fan, but all the credit to YAMAHA!!

OK Thanks.

HI, I want to make some phone calls to the States, what is the usaul business hours?

Sound like there is something not right on your carbs, open them and clean them, check your float levels, check your jetting. Maybe the previous owner jetted it and swapped the float bowls.

Are you sure the carb bowls has not been swap? Is the right carb bowl on the right carb? They look the same, but there is one with a fuel passage wich the other one does not have and that one with the passage should be on the carb that has the choke lever, otherwise the choke won't work. Have you try to choke the airbox intake with your hand or a cloth to see if it starts easier?