2strokespirit

Great results to Passion/SRP.... Congrats!

:rotflmao: I bet its those DMC/cub combination giving him that power...

I got my seat cover(s) from Jeff, awesome quality and it looks sick!! Thanks a billion Jeff, GREAT guy to deal with and GREAT communication, super fast to get your stuff out and this to South Africa... !!!! Support this guy!!!!

Stock 500ml ASI 900ml

Wossner has NOTHING to do with Wiseco!!!!!!!!!

I assemble a lot of motors monthly... I have got at least like 4+ to long wrist pins from Wiseco... Then yet again, I just said this on another forum, I have had Wossner piston with to long wrist pins also, there is the same thread on CR500 forum about wossner pistons... They are made in GERMANY.... This taiwan threads are getting bored.... If a Ford fails do you say Americans suck? If a BMW fails do German cars suck? If toyota engine fail 1 out of 1000 does Japan suck? I am just trying to make a point...

Could be a grooved clutch basket... Pull the clutch while the bike idles for a few seconds and listen if you still hear the noise....

:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

Rods - I know this, been there done that... Made in Taiwan? I import direct from Taiwan, you would be surprise how many after market stuff comes from Taiwan... 6/10 is a example, doesnt matter if its only 3/10 which is good, fact is there is good stuff coming from Taiwan as well... Hotrods cranks... All made in Taiwan... Wiseco parts, made in Taiwan, gforce axles, made in taiwan, TUSK, made in Taiwan.... The list can go on and on...

Yamaha RD400 rods is 115mm you can fit, you can buy them in Pro X also... There are many made in Taiwan parts in the banshee world that holds up... 9/10 times you buy made in Japan you get good stuff... 6/10 times you buy made in Taiwan you get good stuff, this doesn't mean the 60% made in Taiwan is bad quality if it gets out of a good factory that knows metals and all with good quality control... Any part can fail.... period...

Sorry, correction... Pro X makes a bronze rod as well and they are all out Japanese rods... I would use them without a doubt... Stock OEM crank is as good as any other crank if not better!

3+ years ago, I mentioned I can buy cranks direct from Taiwan and that I do have a blue print from them to choose what cranks I want... I was told I am talking nonsense... I then posted the blueprint... That blueprint is the exact same crank that M&M sells... I have been selling them longer then probably anyone... Recently a friend of mine bought a complete serval package from Andy + a 4mm crank as I could not provide a 4mm at that stage, the parts are with me as I am building the motor... Putting his cranks next to mine, its exactly the same thing, rod stampings are the same "G115", both cranks are keyed in the center... These cranks has NEVER failed on me once and I have sold them in 7mms moslty due to the fact that I could buy quite a few 7mm for very cheap... The G115 rods has prove them self... Those years the manufacturer claimed the the rods are double shot peened... Excatly the same as Andy is also claiming if remember correctly, I don't know M&M at all, but running the same cranks, I can assure you its bulletproof stuff....

All these bronze rods are junk... The webs is fine, get the rods out and replace them with hot rods or RD400 Yamaha rods for 115mm... The G115 is the same as M&Ms cranks... Those G115 is double shot peened... And I haven't heard of any failure up to date and I sell them 2...

Taiwan products is far more superior to Chinese products... Taiwan = Republic of China... But for years Taiwan has delivered products that has proved they are worth it... There are companies in Taiwan with excellent quality control and standard... There is nothing wrong with a product which are designs and build for a specific purpose, never mind where its build... I have to agree, the guys complaining about the junk they bought which has failed in their motors are to blame... I try and fit top quality parts in my motors... People want to fit cheap stuff should expect less, they should also not complain when some of these parts doesn't even last half the time then proven parts or fail and destroys a $$$$ motor...

PM sent

We ran then 32:1 and some even 25:1, very clean burning oil...

Hi Brandon, I buy TONS of parts from the US, especially from Jeff... Thousands of $$$ worth of parts... For the last 6 years I am importing... NEVER EVER to me has 1 parcel not shown up... We have a deal, ship them out with USPS EXPRESS only, if they want it, they can pay EXPRESS, express can be traced up into my country and even shows sometimes on the USPS that it is available at post office, and I have to sign for it... Express mail also covers me and its insured... I know you are trying to keep the shipping low, but thats one of those things... Hope you come right...

How old is the carbs? Replace your jet needle and needle jet in the carbs...

Lets see how it turns out, and who chose a lazy way to do things....

Compare these chassis and you will get the idea.... The "main" undercarriage remains the same... I will only lengthen it and modify it to try and fit the stock plastics... tons of work, but possible.... Red will be removed, yellow added... and widened on the yellow arrows.... The biggest thing is, to measure all out and make sure you do the right thing before cutting anything.... I will build a jig to do the lengthening and will also do a lot more measuring before going ahead and just chopping it up in pieces... Time is my main enemy... Tons more work... Lets see where this is going... I would really love to put banshee plastics and seat on there... Widening the upper part will also require cutting of the upper rear shock mount and re mount it in same wider chassis... So before I make every one to excited, let me get into more measuring and see how it turns out....

Update... Front engine mount has been cut.... I also believe that it is possible to stretch the frame, I need about 5 - 6 inches..... If this is done, I will get about any pipe in there.... I have been sitting it and measuring all angles and widths vs the banshee frame.... axle to axle the banshee is about 4 inches longer stock vs stock.... I think by cutting everything of the top of the LTR chassis incl steering stem top mount and just keep the front suspension mounts, top shock mount, fab a new subframe, widen the LTR chassis a little and stretch it, I will be able to even fit banshee plastics.... Lots and lots of work... Time is my main issue, but this is def possible.... By fitting a mono block cylinder with all the good stuff this might also be an advantage to keep the front en down... In the end axle to axle she will be 6" longer.... If turning is such a issue, the swinger can be shorten by a 2 - 3 inches.... I will be messing with the mass center point, but this is one of those things.... Getting banshee plastics on there will make it look stunning... Tons of work, but possible.... I am seriously looking into this.... A few pics to follow...

I did not even know that a conversion section exists... I am busy with a LTR conversion... I agree, you have to cut the heck out of it and make it as easy as possible to make everything fit.... At this stage I am thinking of cutting the complete frame in 2 and lengthened it to make room for the pipes... Or at least build a set of custom pipes... But I agree, I want the option of more then one pipe... The only issue with stretching the frame is the mass center point will also move and can make the bike tilt its head in high jumps easier then normal... The other issue is the plastics won't fit and need to be modified.... On the LTR I am also planning on letting a company build me a narrower radiator but thicker with more cores, CR500 rads was an option, but I hate the look, just doesn't look right... I want to make sure she runs cool enough... To me it looks like CPIs will be the easiest shape to fit on the LTR.... I have Paul turners, DGs, PCs, DMCs, FMFs... Non will fit as easy and sits high and looks right like the DGs would and the CPIs has about the same curve as the DGs and I hate the DGs, got them from a bike I parted and nobody wanted them LOL... No other pipe will fit and look good.... By modding the upper a-arm and narrow radiator, this issue should be sorted also.... The best thing to do is a stretch and I am looking at my option of stretching the frame a few inches, not say I am going to, but it will help a lot... Its either stretching, or modding the upper a-arms and radiator...

I also love the handling of the LTR.... The biggest problem here is the little amount of space in front of the engine, and the very wide radiator... I though of building a custom radiator which is narrower, but thicker.... The issue is that this chassis has a lot of hurdles to overcome.... The rear shock mount sit so that its in the way of pods and the pipes, the stingers will jut go over the mount.... I would love to mount a set of pipes higher, or build a custom set, but yet again, then the pipes might be in the way of your legs.... So the downside is, the pipes should run forward and pass the radiator as far forward as possible without hitting the upper a-arm... I believe the pro circuit header is the right shape to fit, only need to get the last section straight, or cut and twist and reweld... The only other way is to modify the radiator and the upper a-arm to make pipes sit more straight up... But I want to keep everything as LTR as can be, less hassles in the future.... The pipes looks actually great when you sit on the bike they are far forward and it seems "right"... I have been busy for this since 2009, hopefully it will run soon!!

Update.... I sourced a set of PC pipes... Change of plans.... Going to run banshee cylinders.... Make the pipe fits easier... I will still run a one piece rear silencer... I will also remove the front engine mount as it is now, it looks ugly and I need even more space in the front for the header pipes.... I will then add a new pipe l=just like the banshee frame where the front engine mount bolt to... I have add a few pics, on the first pic, I will remove ALL in the red, then add new tubing where the yellow is... I need more space! Then I will strengthen it... The new tubing I will ad for the front engine mount is in the second pic line red, just to give and idea, will be more of an angle then drawn in the pic... This will also help strengthen and stiffen the frame, as I need to remove a lot of material.... Lots to be done, everything is dusty and dirty, but to give you an idea how it will look.... Something like this, is what I have in mind... To five you an idea... Sorry all is dusty and been stored for long time... Time is my biggest problem.... I strongly believe she will take her maiden voyage in 2012!!

I will rather buy a KOSO, they are great... the trail tech stuff suck, we returned to many of them items in one year........