2strokespirit

The guy really did a CLEAN job. I just don't support the "no good" Noss head, maybe there was a leak, but I would still use the Noss head instead of the stock one.

Yes, the addiction gets worse, :yelrotflmao: Anyways I am going to saty with the stock stroke, because the hotrods crankshafts are not that popular over here, so IF my crabk gets shot, I don't want to wait fo a import to get new rods or what ever, the same with the pistons, I can get 65mm easy. Does the 4mm have that much more power? Some say 7% and on say 80HP thats not enough for me to go through the whole drama to imoprt a crank as well. I KNOW the torque is way better.... but I'll think I have to miss out on that..... for now. lol

I am going to import a stock stroke cub cylinder, which bore should I get, 65 or 68? I heard the 68mm wisecos are a little harder to get than the 65mm, is this true? Any other info? I know for the 68 I should run the big bore domes, anything else, are there a big differance HP wise in the 2 or can I just go with the 65mm? Thank you.

I am not so much of a porting guru to say where the gains have been, But that should not heard, OR THAT WAS MY EXPERIENCE from the RGV. It had a little lag in the midrange but bottem was good with a screaming top end. Do not polish the intakes...

The clutch lever under the left carbs will move about 10 - 15mm if you pull in the clutch completely. Does it pull hard? Maybe the ball on the inside had melted to the rod, its a common banshee problem, but its still suppose to shift if you can pull it. It can be that the clutch hub nut is coming loose as well. Does the bike move forward when you pull in the clutch and put it in 1st gear WHEN ITS WARMED UP?

Like how many kicks? Sounds like your pilot, but maybe you've swap the float bowls.

The stock carbs has both 3 tubes, 2 on the sides and one at the bottem.

On the stock carbs the lower 2 tubes are the overflows, yes your float hight is incorrect OR maybe your needle and seat needs replacing or its dirty Its flooding because the needle and seats are not sealing... Thats way its bogging at low rpm.

It is very good in the sand.

19s on 93pumpgas does sound strange. But if you haven't had a problem, who am I to say.

As far as the casting flows, you can remove them, not sure which ones you are talking about. I did some aggressive porting on my RGV250, open the transfers at the deck side and the intake. I also case ported them so that the cases and jugs lined up smooth and make sure the gasket is cut to match precise as well, the RGV performed like I could not believe it and that was the 1st bike I've ported, no lies. But it is true, take your time and if you get tired, put it away and do it another day..

I will support the whole DIY porting, but opening the transfers should be done carefully and it should not be to big as well, the transfers are angled. On the stock jugs 2 are angled to the back of the cylinder and 2 to the center, this is important for performance and cooling reasons and some other reasons as well. By changing the angles can have a dramatic result on power at certain engine speeds (gains & losses). If you inspect your transfers, there is a incoming angle and a deflecting angle. If the transfers are to big, the mixture's entering speed is slower as it was, but you can open it up a little, the question is how much, that is where all the guys that have messed up cylinders over the years came up with the right sizes and the 2-stroke software really comes in advantage. I have to say the books of Gorr and A Graham Bell's 2-stroke performance tunning explane this very well. All the big name builders these days use software to help reshape the ports and this is a huge advantage.

Is this on your cubs? or your stock jugs

I WOULD SAY GO FOR IT!!! What cylinders are this? Stock jugs?

It depends on the gas you are going to use like said ^^^. Speak to your builder or the guy who will be porting your jugs. If it was my call I would have buy a Noss head, there is nothing wrong with PD, just like them more and I heard the guy (David Noss) he is a great guy to deal with and also one of the site sponsors. He can give you all the info you want and what size domes to run with good after sales service.

My bike has just some bolt ons, I ran 14-39 and even 15-40, Mine toped out easily, It will definately top out with a 16 as well. Its fun though. Even the guys on the 450 bumped up the gearing and we got speeds of 138km/h. Whole different as what we are use to, but sometimes its nice to be different. lol

Trust me this was a BLAST especially when you line up to a 6L Lumina ss and you get your bud kicked lol. The nice thing was we can line up 3 quads and 2 cars at a time, the strip was very wide...

Thats the road in front of my house... but I am in the middle of nothing, I have to admit.. lol

You lap the head and then use a THIN layer of silicon or gasket maker. NEVER had a problem and I run all my 2-strokes like that. Some big builders in the race world do the same, A Graham Bell's 2-stroke performance tunning book explains how, he recommends it as well. No gasket, so its a lot cheaper and no gasket can fail.

It was a race day for cars and pick ups. We here a few quads and did the whole 1/4mile thing against some heavy modified cars and pick ups for fun. Hard on a bikes engine.... my bikes engine get it all the time as hard as I can, so I am sure nothing compare to some XC which the bike get hammered for 5km of open road full throttle.... I bought this thing to race, its been lasting for 14 months now, and still going strong, sure it will have to get a rebuild soon and a new clutch, but this motor is so reliable and I maintain it very good. Not trying to make a point here. :thumbsup:

My bike top out in 1/8, true... but so does everyone else's. Launching on hard surface is not easy, so even on a 1/4 mile it depend on the rider, the guy who can do a perfect launch, he will won most of the time, except if there is a dramatic gear ratio differance.

Did you find the problem???? It sounded like a air leak.

.... happened to all of us.

Zeeltronic CDI CAN be run with a banshee stator and flywheel with the RZ goods, but you need the Zeeltronic CDI. They have a fix, but you still need to put a regulator/rectifier on the bike and remove the banshees voltage regulator. You can run a battery eliminator or a battery. The cdi and YPVS are programmable, If I don't have it wrong you can even adjust the amount od degrees that the valve rotates at certain speeds (BUT I AM NOT SURE OF THIS), but if its true, that will be way cool.

My bike runs with just bolt on parts. V Force 3s, K&N, Pro Circuits. Yfz 450 on hard terrain wil beat me over the 1st 100m of a 1/4 mile, but then I will catch it just before the end of a 1/4 mile, I am a heavy guy, but can ride. The LTR450s are good from the pull up to top end speed, they runs next to me, but are faster on the top end speed, with stock gearing and bigger tires. I also think it depends on the rider, But with just the normal bolt on parts like pipes and filter and the same riders I think they are all very close..........till you start with the addiction......then the 450s get smoked!!! lol