2strokespirit

I suggest save some money and replace them, can they be that expensive?

:yelrotflmao:

That is what I like about the big tanks, it looks like the bars is lowerd, it looks so mean and aggressive to me..

For trails, go for the 4mil stock barrels. For drags and big open ares, go for the cubs.. and then there is of cause the RZ route. lol

The banshee gearbox is a bit noisy, if the clutch basket has wear the friction plates sitting a bit loose can make a noise, try pull your clutch and see if it gets better. The idle gear can get noisy as well. It can be a LOT of things, anything...

Just unplug it..

Hey guys thanks a lot... Always nice to hear when people leave good feedback, I appriciate it.

In the past I have used some locktite or bearing locking compound on ONE casing, otherwise it is hell to split the casings, never had a problem. Just 2 - 3 drops..

You don't need it, but if you put a return line it, it wont push your needle and seat open, I ran one on my 350 kart, because the tank sits just as low as the motor...

If it bogs, its flooding, but at sea level with that weather 300 sounds to lean..

If the snorkel is removed I would say start at 300, but I think it will settle at 270-280# if you are at sea level. Higher than 1000 I think 260-270 will do.

You don't have to worry about that if you are SURE you mix is correct at 32:1. I run Castrol Power 1 fully synthetic at a 25:1. I just like to keep the motor lube properly, it hardly smokes. I have make some of my own testing over the years, up to ratios of 20:1 ALL of the motors ran more reliable (engine wear) from getting a bit more oil. A lot will differ from what I said, but this was the truth. A Graham Bell tested a YZ125 an RM 125 on a dyno to show that the 20:1 and 25:1 even makes at 9000rpm up to 1.5 HP more compare to the 40:1 50:1 mixtures and had showed much less ring wear and crank bearing's wear than the other mixtures. There is a myth that some say the less oil in your mixture the more power, this is true till a certain point, but you can always jet a bit for the richer oil mix. Like I said, I have tested this myself and runs XC with my bike and the wear is down compared to the other ratios I have run in the past. I don't say change your ratio, thats just my experience and some big engine builders. I know a lot will disagree and say its because of other problems, but I know what I know, the only bad thing about rich oil mixtures, if its not a synthetic oil, it is always a bit wet at the end of the exhausts when riding at low RPMs, but with what I do and the oil I am running, no problems at all... I thought a share this with you guys...

Can someone tell me whats the thickness of the o'ring, This is new to me as well and want to use this in the future, but to thick of a o'ring and the cases wont seal. Thanks

If you get rid of the spacer plate and get the porting the 4mm deserve without the spacer plate, its a whole differant story and then the stroker run with full potential.

I did not know they were getting this popular, I saw them one ebay, but though i'll rather go for the pwks, but I haven't bought any yet. Would be nice to know if they performs up to standard.

Here is some pics.. Some like them, some hate the looks, I like it alot. Clarke makes a nice one as well with the vent holes on the sides, I actually like the Clarke ones more.

I thought I read it smoked out of the RIGHT hand side exhausts. But if its both, sure it can be a head gasket. Maybe some H2O in the gastank?

My experience with low end power, if a porter do a good job, you can still run twin carbs. I just don't like the 2-1 myself. I have ridden a banshee with a mx port, stock stroke, gearing was 13 - 41. I just could not believe what I felt. This motor was in a Laegers chassis, It pulls just as damn hars as a yfz450 at abou 4000rpm, HONESTLY!!! This thing was MAD on low end. I am building a RZ right know with the Zeeltronic CDI, control Boxes etc. can't wait to get on this thing..

Jim @ Passion!

Could be a head gasket, but can be right hand side crank seal.

:yelrotflmao: Yes more like 55hp. Now, just to know what I should use in my camping stove..

If you are missing a Idle screw, that cylinder can run WAY to lean and can damage the motor, drawing are in threw the idle screw hole, close the hole for now if you want to ride, that can be one of the reasons why it starts so difficult as well.

Keep the RZ tranny, Yes everything will work, suppose you know about the exhaust flanges...now big deal anyways. The RZ has a shorter 1st and shorter 6th, I would personally stay with the RZ tranny, smoother shifting with RZ shift forks and so on. You can play with the sprocket ratios on both trannys and you can get them close to each other. I am building a RZ motor and another RZ tranny is going on a stock stroke cub...

I love that banshee of yours...

If the job is done correctly, I think its a very good deal...