flattrackin92

Im in the middle of a rebuild and i just ordered my domes. I had to go with big bore domes cause i have a 66mm piston but the domes have a 12 degree squish angle and im not sure if this is standard or a little different. Could someone explain what this means. thank you for the help Ron

i have got a minor port job done and i only have 5 races left on my season so i would like to get it through the season and then build a stroker motor over the winter. when i blew it up one of the screws that hold the reed flap in vibrated out and got suck into the cylinder so yes it was pretty bad.

I recently blew my shee up and i was already 60 over. In order to clean the cylinders up i need to go to 100 over. I was wondering what are the risk if i choose to go 100 over or should i just get new cylinders. I would appreciate any info, thanx

Is that worth having done, do you know what kind of a difference it makes as far as power

I run vp ut4 which is a high octane specificly made for two strokes and i run castor 927 oil at a 24 to 1 ratio. I was wondering were is jeff at fast located at and how do i get ahold of him?

I have got a builder telling me that they port there bottom end cases and i have never heard of this. Could someone fill me in on this or is this all false?

I believe my elevation is around 700 or 800 ft above, and i had 200 psi in both cylinders. and im not sure what my squish was but my engine builder told me that it was very close. I just found out that the crank bearing came apart and trashed the crank, rods, cylinders and pistons. That really sucks cause im running in first place in our points but oh well i guess you will have that.

Well here it goes I have a stoke stroke banshee and i am 60 over, I went with vitos pistons and didnt put the base gasket in for more compression, I have pro design cool head with 16 cc domes and everyone told my crank wouldnt hold up to that compression. Well it ran great for 5 races but now im hearing a bad vibration or rattiling coming from the bottom end. and the head is vibrating severly and also lost some compression. Im guessing the crank and bearings went out. so what im getting at is where can i get a good trued and welded crank

stock carbs and i have the air screws two turns out. I am going to try turning the air screws in about a full turn .

had a fresh bore at 60 over and added the adjustable timing plate, my compression is around 175, I know that is high compared to some others but i love the low end and it is still very strong up top. One thing that i did notice is that when i pull the coke and kick it over and then check the plugs it dont seem like im getting fuel to the plugs. but when i get it started i can pull the choke and it will choke it self out. so that tells me the choke is working

just finished my banshee for the upcoming race season and im having problems starting when its cold. I can push start it and it will fire and once its warm it will start on 1 kick everytime. but when its cold it will not start by me kicking it. The engine runs great, so i dont think that its the jetting but could it be the needle position or the choke is not working. Any advice would be great.

I am having a guy paint my plastics. they are lookin sweet but do you guys think that they will last and not crack. The painter is mixing a flex agent into the primer to help prevent it from cracking. I only race flat track and tt so they shouldnt take to much of a beating. So lets hear you guys thoughts on this

I have got a white set from my 2000 shee. they are pretty beat up but no cracks

Is this product worth the money? Can you feel the difference?

I have got the boyssen rad valve set up on my shee. I was wondering what is the best intake and filter set up for the rad valves. I was lookin at a few different models but a lot of them are not compatible with the rad valve set up. I would appreciate any help