Screaming Yellow Zonker

I would not put 2 different size cylinders on your bike. That is more trouble than it is worth. The carbs will have to be jetted different and one might produce more power than the other and that can cause problems. Bore them both.

did you file the side of the carb down? the idle screw won't work unless you take some of the boss away.

here was mine. I had a bad crank seal. It was white smoke and did not really smell. If you are lucky it is just a seal. if your not it is a rebuild. Good luck.

Where the case half's meet is the pointer.

Good luck finding Yamabond. Every dealer I went to was out. you might have to use 3 bond. Do not use any auto parts store silicone. They aren't made for the tight fighting surface and can keep the case half's from sealing totally. If that happens you can get crank bearing failure.

since you have a tough time starting it I will take it off your hands and I wont charge you... J/K It sounds like you have some gummed up pilot jets. Possibly from running 20:1. You should have a larger brass screw on the side of each carb. this is for the idle adj. http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=372&page=1 you can see the one on my carb in the pic below.

A friend has a KX250 and after 5 kicks you go have a beer then try it again. Try to shoot a little carb cleaner in the carb and kick it over. If it fires or starts than you have a fuel issue on the low end. Pilot jet or start(choke) jet.

Well drinking too many beers while working on the bike might make you forget where things go :ermm:

12 BOLT,HEXAGON 97017-06030-00 (replaces 97027-06030-00) 2 $0.67 17 BOLT,HEXAGON 97017-06030-00 (replaces 97027-06030-00) 2 $0.67

a good used one will run you about 100-250. A new one will be about 300 +.

one other thing you might want to check is the spark plug caps. Ohm them out. there should be resistance. 0 would be bad.

When I had the case split 2 weeks ago all I bought besides the stroker crank was a seal kit from Vito's, a clutch cover gasket, and some 3 bond (or you could use yamabond) The sealant I got was $17 a tube. It is designed for 2 strokes because it wont hold the case up the 1-2 mm others might. (So I was told) You might need base gasket and head gasket as well. The only other thing I bought was trarry fluid.

it is a T.O.R.S. wire. I cut it out of mine.

does this wire have a tracer color? a green wire with a yellow tracer is for the tors. it cuts spark when grounded. In the back of the Clymers it has diagrams. unless after market.

The crank seal has nothing to do with compression. The compression you are looking for is at the top of the piston not the bottom. When the bottom has compression it is pushing fuel to the top end. normally a crank seal will allow trans oil to be sucked in. How reputable is you engine shop? They may have messed up on honing. Just an idea.

The knocking sound is normally a bearing failure. In my opinion it will need a crank, cylinders bored and new pistons and rings. If it is a good price and you dont mind working on it and tossing a few dollars at it than I would get it. I split my case 2 weeks ago and installed a new crank and it was no problem.

Damn dude! I remember doing that about 3 years ago. mine was a little worse though. I broke 3-4 fingers off the basket and a couple of friction discs broke apart also. I'm glad you found the problem. Good luck.

So I pulled the clutch cover, Clutch basket and crank gears off today and sure enough the seal was bad. without removing the seal I could see red liquid on the bearing. and I inspected the seal and there was a part where the Teflon was molded into the rubber that was all broken apart. so I popped it out and will be going to the dealer tomorrow for a new seal.

Yep I double checked them before I put the pods back on. I am thinking I should pull the head and check the O-rings. It doesnt smell like oil or coolant that is the weird part.

The reeds are a few months old so I never thought about that. It is white smoke but the plug shows no sign of coolant. and it is only the right side so that led me to believe that it might be a crank seal. I will rip the reeds out tomorrow and check them out. Thanks.

Thanks. I am going to tear into it monday. here are 2 pics of what it's doing.

That is all I have ever done. You just have to use an impact to remove it when the time comes,

Did you remove any other part of the T.O.R.S. besides the carbs? Like the T.O.R.S. controller box or the P.B. switch???

Yah I know all about that. I am going to see if I can cheat. I don't really want to split the case again.

Oh the clip that holds the choke out (detent clip) broke on me so I have to hold the choke to get it to work. Oops :biggrin: