Screaming Yellow Zonker

Has anyone else ever had the problems with rivets sheering off in the flywheel? This is a ricky stator with the stronger magnets. I found the rivets when I pulled the flywheel off and one of the rivets gouged the inside of the flywheel.

To me it sounds like you need to up your jets. I am running 340 with out a stroker. Bump up your jets and check over your pilots carefully. 27.5-30 pilots.

How do you know it is at 1/4 throttle? so than all needles are the same is what you are saying! the needle and pilot are set up like a hole and a plug. When the needle is down very little fuel will get by the needle. As you give it more throttle you get smaller and smaller on the needle. when that happens you start receiving more fuel. It is not until the needle is all the way out that you are using 100% of the main jet. I would take the pilots out of the carbs and make sure those are clean or even put the 30's in. I would definitely put the red needles in.

If the main is too big than it will dump fuel. Do you know how a main jet works? The needle is going to make a difference. The stock needle will dump fuel quicker. The new needle will allow the fuel to flow gradually. Yes the middle clip. You will loose a little down low with +4 timing but it wont make it bog. I am running 3 1/2 degrees and still have good low end. I am also running a 340 main with a 27.5 pilot.

How is the idle? have you had to mess with it at all?

your pilots should be fine. I would drop main jet size down to 280. I would also change the needles. they have a different fuel curve than stock. also make sure your carbs are synchronized. (opening at the same time). Did you just put the pipes and pods on?

Are you telling us that you didn't mark anything so that it goes back together the way it came apart? Oh well it doesn't matter. The drive gears mate the rotating force of the engine to the transmission drive line.

My buddies 06 450 was dynoed at 49 rwh with stock tires. The dyno guys slicks weren't at the shop and time ran out. We raced and my bike was neck and neck with his. And I dont have that much done to it.

A little more info would help figure your problem out. Is the clutch completely disengaging? How does it idle in neutral? Does it take longer to start than it use to? How old is the gas in it? The carbs might just need to be cleaned out well. Including all the jets and passages.

I had knee surgery on the 9th then went trail riding on the 21st. I got back to camp and popped 2 vicodins and I wasn't feeling my knee anymore. Can't give up on riding.

So when I put my bike back together I found that my case was broken by the clutch pivot shaft. I tried to patch it but the patch didn't hold. So now I have to tear the engine down to get the case fixed. I told myself if I split the case I am getting a stroker crank for it. So I ordered a stroker crank and a Trinity stage IV head. Now I just need opinions on my carbs. Should I just jet them or get larger carbs? Maybe I can just bore the carbs out??? And for anyone running a 4 mm what did you do with your carbs?

It is fast food but it isn't like McD's or BK where it is already wrapped when you order. And it is not greasy like the hamburger joints.

Damn! I'm thinking about going to the doctors. I am starting to hurt just seeing the pics. I hope they gave you some good pain meds.

I am with them toss those pieces. Also did you soak your clutches in fluid overnight???

It sounds like you need a bigger dog But that great they caught the ass hat that tried and has stolen your stuff. I sleep next to my 8mm Mauser long rifle. Once you hear the bolt slide you are sure to drop everything:)

Every piston rocks in a cylinder. if you take material off you weaken the skirting which could cause it to break. if you do take any off dont do too much. you also mess with port timing. Ask someone like Jeff from FAST.

I had the Toomey 2 into 1 filter system on my bike when I got it and I thought it rode fine. One day I took off the filter and rode it and was shocked on how much more power it had. So I went with the K&N pods and it runs great. The one bad thing is you have to watch out for water.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I'm with them^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Just say no to T.O.R.S.

one other thing is the 9 inch will give you more flex in the tire sidewall and better for woods. 10 inch stiffer sidewall good for MX. I am going with the 10 inch on mine but the rear tires without rims weigh 45 pounds.

did you try both the high and low settings? you can also take an ohm meter and ground the black and probe the headlight wires with the red. But it does sound like you toasted your bulbs. worst case you toasted your lighting stator.

One major upgrade you will need is rear tires... Stock are junk...

I deal with those guys all the time. I just go in there and tell them what parts I want and thats about it. And the shop is 2 miles from my house.

cut it out of there. It's part of the T.O.R.S.

I am interested in a set if you make some more.

did you happen to look through the jets before you installed them? When my bike wouldn't idle I pulled the jets and found a pilot full of crap. Just a thought Good luck.