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Screaming Yellow Zonker

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Everything posted by Screaming Yellow Zonker

  1. there should be only a .020 clearance between the pick up and flywheel triggers. Make sure everything got plugged back in and no pinched wires.
  2. I took a deck (wood) screw and screwed it into the seal and used pliers to get it out.
  3. I just give mine a few revs and it falls in.
  4. yep they rev just like a bike. Take the fuel line off and check your flow. the petcock has two filters on it in the tank. It might be full of sludge. I pulled mine out and now run an inline. Make sure your jets are clean. Make sure your reeds aren't stuck. Good luck with the problem.
  5. I have seen the guy once. From my understanding his car is FAST!!! Some of the guys from the car club (MotownMuscle) have their cars tuned by him. He has a Marauder now. Sorry for the Hijack... IMO the TORS elimination kit is worth it. Get rid of the problem before it goes bad.
  6. Nice 4 eyed fox. A friend of mine just made Dec cover of Modified mustangs.
  7. CDI is just for the spark C= capacitive D= discharge I= ignition Was your bike sitting for some time? I would check your pilot jets for something blocking them. take a small piece of wire and run it through them. If your idle was good before this is where I would start.
  8. it sounds like you might have added ventilation to your piston. did it rattle when you had it running? compression test your engine.
  9. I would also change your gearing. go down 1 in the front and up 1 in the rear. 13:42
  10. I don't think you will ever get rid of the low end bog. you can make it better. Definitely the 2 into 1 carb. Maybe some PT mids. Some V-force reeds. you could also go for the "woods" porting. I would also look into the 450 front arms, shocks and spindles to help it handle better.
  11. the engine is not centered in the frame. so you can not have symmetrical pipes.
  12. it is high temp PC used for exhaust or high heat applications. A good PC shop will know what to use for exhaust.
  13. My pipes were really rusty so with the blasting and coating it was like 175. it is a satin black and right by the head it turns flat black. but is not that noticeable.
  14. Misunderstanding. I thought he had the exhaust on. with the .040 over cyl. I ran 370's on a .020, with T5's, pod air filters, GYTR ignition, 4* of timing and a RS 200w stator.
  15. When they say "cold seize" it is basically from sitting not the temp. Snowmobiles will seize in the summer. Moisture and lack of use will cause the seize to happen. use the fogging oil and you won't have that problem.
  16. Do it right and you won't have any problems down the road. My PC toomey T5's are holding up nicely Before After (not cleaned after riding)
  17. How are the condition of the carb boots??? How about the reeds??? It sounds like an air leak. Is the plug normal or lean?
  18. Don't apply a ton of sealer. Too much will hold the case apart and cause bearing failure. That is what I was told.
  19. sorry missed the stock air filter. 310-320 with stock filter. K&N 340-350 Plug chop for a more accurate adjustments.
  20. Check your clutch adjustment. with the lever pulled the arrows on the clutch lever(on the top of engine) should line up. Too much could be over adjusted or worn out. I would also check your reeds. make sure they close all the way. I would run a 30 pilot and 340-350 main jets.
  21. definitely pull the tape off the wires and also give them the "tug" test. pull on the wires and make sure they don't break. Weak wires carry high resistance. IMO I would solder all connectors and shrink tube them. Or just go on E-Bay and get a new harness. I got one for like 25 bucks.
  22. it sounds like a cold seize. It happens a lot in snowmobiles. I would hit your local parts store and get some fogging oil. while running give it a few shots in each cylinder. then once you shut it down shoot some through the spark plug holes. then you should be all set for storage. Good luck.
  23. My RS did that too.
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