csrmel

thats is just it though. lets say for example that passion racing engines is sponsoring you. that is all fine and great, no one had a problem with that. but if passion isnt sponsoring this forum then you dont really have a right to advertise for them. i dont mean to single out you or passion racing engines. i dont know if you have any sponsors, or if passion racing eingines sponsors this forum or not. just using you as an example. i have no problem with you or passion racing engines. but it isnt fair to advertise for a company who wont spend money supporting this forum. i also dont think lee has a problem with someone putting an atv companys name in their list of mods. like my signature says i have toomey pipes. i dont think theres any problem with that.

the port work is the biggest factor. it is entirely possible to have a cylinder ported by someone who is good at porting 4 strokes but doesnt really know what they are doing on a 2 stroke and you could actually LOSE power. so depending on the port work youre hp could be anywhere from 40-80hp. 80 is it was a really agressive job. just telling us that the ports were opened 15% doesnt really mean anything. we would need to know port durations and widths, angles, etc to make a good guess.

the sigs were getting huge. i saw some people advertising for 2 or 3 companys at once. whats the point unless they are getting paid to do it? thanks lee.

be more spesfic in the details of youre setup. what stroke crank. lonng rod? etc etc.

i run the uni's with outerwears. its a trick setup. if you oil the inner element but leave the foam outerwear dry, you get a long life out of the filter before it needs cleaning. i can usually remove and clean the outerwear 5-6 times before cleaning the inner element. i dont even have to remove the inner elememt from the carbs to get the outerwear off for cleaning. it has also been said by many that foam will filter better than k&n. and if you get a large enough foam filter it should flow just as well as a k&n.

sorry it's not spark arrested. i have the original version of the hush kit. the only difference is the spark arrestor. oh and a toomey sticker. thanks for the offer though.

so heres the deal. im not a pro drag racer. im looking to get into the sport and looking for a set of entry level wheels and tyres. can 130/90-10 scooter tyres fit on the front stock wheels of a banshee? those seem like nice low rolling resistance tyres. is there any scooter tyres that can fit stock front wheels? i notice the yamaha zuma has 10 inch street tread tyres. look like a bitch to mount though. what is a nice and cheap rear tyre to use? i dont want to spend a lot because i am entry level at this point. can i use bald knobbies or is that a bad idea? what about these http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...6#vehicleSelect or these http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...4#vehicleSelect maybe even this http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...1#vehicleSelect ??? anyone make real drag tyres for a 9 inch wheel?

my banshee with my mods does 91 down my street and i ran out of road, it could probably do a few more. if i had half a mile long road i bet i could get 95 out of it. and that 91 mph is gps verified. i had my gps in my backpack. and i had my buddy in his car next to me and his speedo also said 91 so its car verified as well. theres no way that banshee does 135. wind resistance goes up exponentially with speed, its not linear. the faster you go the wind resistance builds up quicker than the speed. thats why most all quads top out below 100 and very few make it to the 100 mark or past. you basically start to hit a wind resistance wall and it takes HUGE ammounts of power to get significantly past the wall. drag bikes are an exception. they have power to spare. there are always exceptions. another way to look at it is that drag goes up at the rate of 4 times the speed. so if an atv can do 50mph flat out at top speed, and the motor is pushing 20hp (lets say a little blaster for example). if you wanted to make that same atv go 100mph, you would need to quadruple the horsepower. so that little blaster would need 80hp to do 100. and of course it would need one hell of a sprocket changeout. now keep in mind i dont know how much power a blaster really had, or its real top speed. im just using the numbers as an example.

i have seen some ghetto ass fixed hubs. i have seen everything from nut and bolting the sprocket on to putting car lug studs and using lugnuts from a car but backwards. i have seen all sorts of pins and wire holding sprockets on too. duct tape to hold the sprocket against the hub. you name it i have seen it. seen a dirtbike once with some drywall screws holding the sprocket against the hub because the bolts for the sprocket studs were gone. they just screwed it right into the aluminum hub! ahh the pleasures of living in the middle of redneck country. speaking of ghetto mods. theres a teenage punk down the street with some chinese made quad. his chain was making some loud screetch noises and i told him he better oil it soon but he didnt. the chain finally snapped. so he goes and cuts off 2 inch length of clothes hanger wire and makes his own master link out of wire. it works good enough for him to get around but i have to laugh my ass off at that one. and every time the wire breaks he usually snaps off another small chunk of his engine case.

the super stock pistons, those are the ones that are cut to give you increased port timing out of stock unported cylinders right?

you guys are going to laugh, but i get my sprockets from the motorcycle junkyard. they are $2 each. no tax. no shipping charges. i got more sprockets then i know what to do with. and i only buy ones that are in almost new condition. chain on the other hand, i wont buy used. not worth risking my cases over a piece of chain.

i have a set of t5's with hush kit. the expension chambers have recently been polished and look fantastic. one of the expansion chamber pipe hangers cracked and i had it professionally welded by a welding fabrication shop. aside from this one little aspect, the expansion chambers are perfect. the stinger tubes were accidently run over by my car and are dented, but fully functional. you might want to pick up a new set from toomey. the mufflers have been polished and look fantastic, they are in excellent condition as are the expansion chambers. the hush kit has also been polished and in excellent condition. i also have custom made polished pipe armour that goes with the toomeys. this armour had been cut to losely resemble a spinal cord. it wraps around the expansion chambers where youre knees and shins go to keep you from burning youre skin or pants. i always hated burning myself, my legs are scarred from it. un fortunately the pipe armour is made for toomeys and not cpi's so they have to go with the t5's as a matched set. the expansion chambers, mufflers and hugh kit are all polished to a near chrome finish. actually the expansion chambers ARE chrome. so bedies the 2 stinger tubes, these pipes are in mint condition. TOOMEY sells the replacment stinger tubes for $16 each. i called them a month ago and they said you can get the replacments with free shipping since the originals were damaged. toomey is a good comapny! i am looking for a set of inframe cpi's for a small bore engine. mufflers are optional. i have a set of universal mufflers so i dont need the cpi ones, although it would be nice. if you trade me cpis with no mufflers i will ask for additional cash to compensate for them. the cpi's must be in decent condition and chromed. i dont mind blems. i dont expect a used set of pipes to be perect. we are trading used pipes afterall. espically since i have a buffing wheel i can buff the shit out of them if they are dirty. just as long as there are NO dents. small ammounts of rust are OK, as long as it is not deep rust or in large ammounts. but the pipes cant be dented! that is very important to me. they pipes also need to be straight and true. if you dont need the hush kit you can cut the kit off and the mufflers will be just like non toomey mufflers, but the hush kit doesnt take away power. actually according to toomey it ADDS top end so theres no reason not to use it. but some people dont like the looks of it so whatever.

they get the name stroker pistons because almost no one has a stock stroke long rod crank. but yes you are right technically they are "long rod" pistons and not "stroker" pistons. and yes they are nice.

use a needle or safety pin and pop off the inner seal off each bearing. then use youre finger and apply a big wad of grease to the bearing cage, race and balls. pop the inner seal back on with youre thumbs. apply a light coat of grease or antiseize to the outside and inside of each bearing before putting it in the new housing. this will insure that years down the road you need to take the bearings out they will slide out easily. and applying grease to the INSIDE of the bearing under the seal will make it last for a decade or more. i always apply grease to a bearing whenever i take one out. its cheap insurance. bearings for the housing are expensive! grease is youre friend. you might even think about loading the housing up with grease after the bearings are in, but before you slide the axle in. when it comes to maintenance, you can never do too much!

the reason dirtbikes and motorcycles have twist throttle and atv's have thumb throttle is because an atv had 4 wheels, a dirtbike has 2. if you go through some gnarly terrain with bumps and ruts on a dirtbike the bie only pitches up and down since the wheels follow each other. on an atv in the same terrain, the bike pitches up and down as well as rocks left and right. if you run over a bump with the left tyres, that side goes up but the right side stays down. on a dirtbike it doesnt have that problem. when you ride really fast through that type of terrain its a dirtbike can get away with a twist throttle but on an atv you be rocking left and right and have more of a tendency to lose youre grip so its a lot safer to have a thumb throttle. look at it another way. on a drtbike you can avoid a lot of bumps on a trail just by going around them. on a quad you can only avoid the bumps that go between the wheels. on a 3 wheeler you cant avoid any bumps. because most people, my self included dont really run our atvs through the rough shit so fast that we are nearly out of control, you can get away with using a twist throttle on an atv. but if you run through some really gnarly shit you would be finding it difficult to maintain the throttle position that you want with a twist. with that said i prefer a thumb throttle for atv. for the banshee throttle system, it sucks. no other way to say it. it just sucks. the thumb throttle is hard to move. it tired you thumb and palm out. but there is a few tricks you can do to make it A LOT better. 1. remove the throttle cable entirely from the bike. put it in a bench mounted vise and dribble some motor oil, 2 stroke oil, or atf down the cable and work the braid in and out until you actually see oil comming out of the Y box where the cable splits into 2. do not use grease or any thick motor oil. i personally wouldnt use anything thicker than 5w30. when it gets cold outside oil thickens up. you do not want thick oil in the cable. this thick oil causes extra resistance inside the cable. if you dont have 5w30, use 2 stroke oil, or atf. both of those are thin oils. next pop open the Y box and dribble more oil into that and keep working the cable until you see oil some out the split ends. after working the cable for a while it will start sliding really freely. if the cable does not slide smoothly you probably have a frey somewhere in the cable and need a new one. when you have it all good and lubed the branded cable should be so free that it will almost slide out of the cable sheath under its own weight from gravity. well, almost! then tie the table up high so it hangs straight down. let it sit for 24 hours and drain the excess oil out so it does not make a mess once you install it back on the bike. while its draining out do the next steps below. 2. pull the thumb throttle housing apart and clean it in the sink. when it is dry GREASE the thumb throttle pivot and linkage. dont use oil here as it wont stay on the shaft very long. use grease or antiseize. put some on the very end of the throttle cable as well but dont let it get into the cable sheath. 3. take the carbs apart and hit ANY rough parts of the carb barrels with a fine hand file. then polish the barrels up smooth. now clean and oil the carb caps. 4. cut 3 complete turns off each of the stock carb return springs. for whatever reason yamaha made the springs way too stiff. (maybe for all you suckers with dry throttle cables). by cutting 3 turns off each spring that 1 single mod will cut 40% of the thumb throttle resistance out of the equation. 5. put everything back together and remember to oil the carb barrels with some 2 stroke oil before putting them back in. take special care to route the throttle cable in such a way as to minimise how many turns it makes, and avoid at all costs any sharp turns. that throttle cable is long enough that you can make it go from the thumb housing to the carbs without ANY sharp turns or twists. if you cant get it to fit like that take the cable out and try to route it a different way. dont forget to mount it to the frame and handlebars with zipties. this keeps it from vibrating around. you go through and do all those steps and you can cut the thumb throttle resistance by probably 60%, that is what i did to my brand new banshee and it worked wonders even though my bike was brand new.

take it into a welding and fabrication shop. they will make you a sweet exhaust for way less than $600

i ended up taking it to a sand blaster who specialises in removing paint. he put it in his cabnet and blast it with ground up walnut shells. this removes paint but does NOt scratch the aluminum. so i spend $30 on sandblasting and $15 on paint stripper, $10 on polishing compound, and its going to take an hour or more to actually polish the damned thing. i would of been better off sending it out to someone to get stripped and polished for $75. but whatever. at least its going to get done.

heres another way to break in a fresh rebuild with some supporting evidence. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm interesting way to go... note that this break in method is for a 4 stroke, but the piston and rings on a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke do the exact same thing and basically, i believe the breakin method to be similar. also note that motune's method is close to the method that wiseco recomends.

when you are at mudfest on a BANSHEE you dont care about horsepower. alls you care about is getting from one dry spot to the next and not getting youre 2wd stuck. and doing it as loud as you can. i was 1 of about 5 2 strokes at the whole event. most of them had no mufflers. a very few of the 4 strokes didnt even have headers if you can believe that. yeah it sounds goofy. and if that was anywhere else, a national forest, a mx track, a hare scramble, or my own neighbourhood for example, you can bet my mufflers would never come off. mudfest is about having a good time. there is no races, no stopwatches. nobody cares how long it takes you to get from point a to point b. all that matters is to go deep and not get stuck. i got no complaints the whole time about the mufflers. infact, i got loads of complements. i think when it comes to mudfest, louder is better. yeah we all know pulling the pipes off the back of the expansion chamber reduces power. so what? that doesnt mater. yeah it probably sounds stupid to a lot of you to do that. so what? im ok with it. when you tooling around in 2nd and 1st gear with a busch lite in yer hand (lolz @ RZBansheeMan) you dont need lots of power. just noise. so i rednecked my banshee up for mudfest. so what.

at this one redneck mudfest i go too no one runs mufflers on the 4 strokes. even the trucks, swamp buggies etc, no mufflers. so i thought i would be all redneck and remove the mufflers on my t5's. holy shit was that loud. then i revvved it in neutral it made my brain itch through my ear drums. so i had to wear a helmet just for the sound. before that i had never expierenced sound that actually hurt. but you wouldnt believe how many thumbs up i got. it seems like with rednecks, the louder the better. whatever if it makes em happy i dont mind rocking the loud pipes.

280 mains, stock pilots. needle PROBABLY in the middle clip. thats right from toomey themselves.

since you are using wiseco pistons, why not break the motor in the way wiseco wants you to? last time i bought wiseco pistons they came with a little orange paper that had a breakin in procedure on them. it basically said let the motor warm up, then drive around. dont baby the motor but dont run full throttle for long periods of time. but brief full throttle bursts were acceptable. it also said that breakin of a piston and rings on a 2 stroke only take 30 minutes of riding and that heat cycling a motor is not helpful. that is right from my memory of the paper that came with my banshee pistons.

i am trying to strip the paint off my 06 clutch cover. i think because its an 06 the paint is still in very good condition and it not easy to get off. i want to strip it so i can polish it. i did a search on stripping the clutch cover. most people said to get some aircraft paint stripper and use that. so i did. the aircraft stripper worked great on about half the cover. the other half it didnt even make a dent. i tried wrapping it in plastic to keep it from evaporating, i tried alot of ideas actually. i borrowed a friends GEL based paint stripper and that also didnt touch the factory paint. even after letting it sit overnight and pressure cleaning the next day. so now i have this ugly half painted clutch cover and no way to get the rest off. sanding TAKES FOREVER and i would rather paint the fuckin bitch black and put it back on then go through the hassle of sanding it. yeah im a little pissed off at this point. im kinda fereaked out. wondering if anyone has an idea on what i can do. are different brands pf paint stripper better than others? the aircraft paint stripper i bought literally said "aircraft paint stripper" made by kleen.

rb porting up in wisconsin is suppose to do some pretty aewsome porting. with the current exchange rate you might actually save money by sending them to usa to get ported. i have never seen a single complaint about rb porting. http://groups.msn.com/RBRacingTwoStrokePorting

you can use grease or antiseize. i like the antiseize because it seems to stay there longer. but grease works too. either way when you eventually need to disassemble the cool head to work on the motor having grease or antiseize keeps the parts from sticking together so they come apart easy. dont forget to grease or antiseize the sparkplug threads too.