csrmel

perhaps it is that he got a longrod crank, or a stroker crank by accident.

im looking for a low cost boost bottle.

go with the stock head. you can get it cut to any specification and compression ratio you want. it only costs $45 to cut. its about $100 to oring and cut. this way you can save $150 for other things. alot of high power banshees use stock head that have been cut. they seem to work well.

ditch the noss/cool head. not worth it. i have one and it barely dropped my temps at all. the ONLY useful feature of a noss/cool head is the ability to change domes. but honestly most people never even do this. you could argue that another unique feature of those type of heads is the orings, but that isnt unique because the stock head can be cut for orings as well. if you dont want or need orings then you can get a stock head cut to match the domes of a noss/cool head for 45 bucks. for the price of 1 oring kit, you can buy 4 or 5 stock head gaskets. if you want an oringed head, you can get the stock head oringed at the same time its cut for more compression and it wont even break the hundred dollar mark. instead of going with vforce reed system, just get the stock reed cages ported. cost is about $50 for the pair. thats 1/4 the cost of v force and most people dont need vforce anyways. if big 7mm drag bikes can use stock cages then they probably flow enough for 95% of the banshees out there.

here goes. i cant find proof that yamalube 2r is made by citgo right now, but i have seen offical citgo documents in the past showing that its made by citgo. i just cant find them right now. as a consolation prize i do have proof that yamalube 2m (marine 2 stroker oil) is made by citgo. http://www.parkeryamaha.com/forms/ACCY2MTCW302msds.pdfwell that is a matereal safety data sheeet. for yamalube 2m. it is required for all hazardous and flammable chemicals that are transported or shipped anywhere. basically it lists the pour point, flash point, some hints at chemical makeup, etc. that way if a truck carrying yamalube gets into an accident and it leaks out the cleapup crew knows how to handle it. check out the pdf and it shows it being made by citgo. heres one for yamalube 2w, the 2 stroke watercraft formula. again made by citgo. http://www.parkeryamaha.com/forms/ACCY2WJBWV02msds.pdf sorry guys, but i have spent like 15 minutes looking for an msda on yamalube 2r, but i cant find one. i HAVE seen it before and it did say it was made by citgo. and it has the same part number as citgo branded oil. i just cant find proof right now. i suppose i could call yamaha and ask them to fax me a msda but thats too much work just to prove somthing that i already know is true. but since i show proof that the yamalube marine formulas are citgo, then it would not be a large leap of faith for any of you to believe the 2r is also citgo right?

pm sent.

it isnt worth it. just get youre stock head reworked. alot of places will do that for $50-$80.

how is it that reeds give you more power if you dont have to rejet. i never understood that one.

last time i checked, yamalube was just rebadged citgo oil which is sold as an expensive oem oil. you can get the same oil in a citgo bottle for half the cost at a gas station. it is nothing special. i use castrol 2t atv oil at 25:1.

the reason im running 300's is because i have a really trick tuned length filter manifold and filter setup that after doing a plug chop 300's seem to work god for me. if i was running a normal filters or the toomey 2:1 i would be running 280's no doubt. actually i did run 270's when i had the airbox on with no lid back when i first got the pipes. most people jet their bikes pig ass rich thinking its going to make the motor last longer. in reality as long as it is jetted peoperly, not lean but not rich, it will last a good long time.

i used antiseize on my orings and it worked freakin great. plus in the future if i need to ever take the head off or take it apart i know it isnt going to be stuck together because the antiseize keeps things from sticking from corrosion.

if you are using 8 year old plugs then youre jetting is probably prety good. you are NOT going to wear out a plug in a banshee by using it too much. alot of cars go 20-30 even 60 thousand miles on cheap $2 plugs with no problems. the banshee isnt going to wear out its plugs. the only probloem you can run into is fouling. its the people who foul plugs once in a while who need new ones because they run so pig ass rich. well for regular pump gas anyways. if youre motor is jetted right, you should never foul plugs on pump gas under any conditions. i have my plugs in for almost 2 years now. still runs like the day i bought the bike new off the showrtoom floor. infact my plugs are the original plugs that came with my bike new from the yamaha dealer. why blow $4 on new ones? that may sound cheap but id rather use that $4 to buy a gallon of gas and mix it with some oil.

the only areas that it can bind are 1. warped rotor. take the rotor to an auto parts store or machine shop. most will check them for free for warping. 2. sticking slide pins as someone else mentioned. you can remove the pins wire brush them, grease them and reinstall them to work like new. 3. caliper piston. if this is sticking then its time for new calipers or time to pull them apart, clean with a mini caliper hone (a standard automotive drum brake hone works perfect). clean the rest of the caliper too including the piston. don't forget to lube the p[iston before installing it back in the cylinder. you need to use a brake grease spesfic to brakes. usually you can buy a little blister pack for 99 cents at most automotive stores. DO NOT USE REGULAR GREASE. some people have luck using brake fluid instead of grease. but i perfer to do it the right way. and its only costs 99 cents more to do it the right way. check these 3 things and you will have brakes that work like they are brand new.

on a stock motor i would say 110 or less and its time to order parts for a rebuild but you can still ride it if it start ok. if its below 100 then dont even ride it or you risk damage. just put it away until the rebuild parts come in.

next time soneone posts a question about a paddle, just reply with this.

yeah im 250lbs so im looking for a rear spring for my shock thats stiffer than the stock one. looking for roughly 6.3kg spring. and i refuse to pay $75+ for a new one. it's just a piece of coiled steel. not worth the price new.

where do you get a new stiffer spring for $25? shit everywhere i look has them at $70 and up.

+2 is the shiznut. im 6'5 and i almost need a plus 3 or 4, but 2 is as big as they come. it literally cut 40% of the riding fatigue that i felt when standing up. the higher bars means you are less likely to fall foreward backward, or side to side becuase you can get more leverage over the bike. even smaller dudes who try my banshee LOVE the plus 2 stem. i have yet to find a single person who did not like my plus 2 stem after riding my bike.

mine makes that noise ever since day 1 when i bought it new off the showroom floor. i wouldn't worry about it.

tivo my cat. its on all the time

banshee isnt really geared for street riding. you need taller gears to keep the rpm's down on highways and such. the premix wont matter. lots of rz350's and other 2 stroke street bikes convert to premix. dirt tyres wear out rather quick on the street. espically when used with the typical 2-5psi. if you do a lot of street riding, grab a needle bearing clutch saver.

ah come on. someones gotta show. we need banshees to represent to these 4x4 ute's!

if youre trails are mostly flat then getting better suspension wont do shit. but a port job would be wasted if the trails you ride require only an occasional full throttle. so it depends on the type of trails to determine if suspension would be better than a port job, if a port job is even needed. need more info about the trails and how much you are at full throttle.

you can check the steels by using a micrometer to check for high and low spots. but a micrometer wont work for checking warping or a wobbly friction disc. for that you would need to set each steel on a plate of thick glass, preferably half inch or thicker, or a really smooth flat piece of granite. then try and slide a piece of paper under different sides of the friction disc. you shouldn't be able to slide it under any part of the steel friction disc. if you can, then chances are its warped. if you check all the discs and they turn out ok, then put a piece of 500 grit sand paper on the plate of glass or granite and rub each disc light amount of pressure to gently roughen up the steel friction disc. you don't want large scratches or gouges. just a dull finish to the steel friction discs. this would greatly aide in gripping the clutch discs when you let out the clutch to take off or shift gears. the friction discs are cheap enough that you can just buy new ones if the current ones turn out to be bad after testing them. . or get a whole clutch kit from tisk for $45 that comes with new steels and clutch discs and heavy duty springs and call it a day. whew.

the rotor? you mean the flywheel? is the flywheel damaged at all? each little metal tab on the flywheel needs to be in good condition. there are 2 tabs, spaced 180 degrees apart. the pick up sensor is a pretty precise instrument. did you gap it corectly to the flywheel? if the pick up is damaged you probably wont get a spark, as that is the device which sends a signal to the cdi to power the coil.