csrmel

wrist pins in a 2 stroke wear very quick compared to the rest of the bearings. if i had to guess i would say it is because of the additional heat that the wrist pin sees being so close to the piston crown. its literally right underneath it. brand new wiseco wrist pin bearings only run $10 each. if you going to replace some top end parts. you might as well do the job right and replace the wrist pin bearings at the same time. what is that old saying. if something is worth doing, its worth doing right!

if you deside to do it youreself we will help you. if you run into a problem, take a picture of the problem and post it up for someone to see. alot of guys on this forum have rebuild countless engines. i have done 2 myself. i know bigred has probably done dozens of engines. he could probably do them with his eyes blindfolded. so there is a good chance that someone has a solution to any problem you can possibly encounter. just go slow, keep things as clean as possible, and label parts and bolts and put them in ziplock bags.

running 2 gaskets instead of 1 really isnt that bad. the main problem is you get fucked up port timings. in order to properly run a 4 mill crank or any stroker crank you NEED to get youre cylinders ported. there is no such thing as a spacer plate that can correct youre port timings and bring them back to stock. the spacer plate can only correct youre piston and deck clearence. which is only havf of the problem. just because you can get the crank and pistons to fit does not mean everything is setup properly. if you ran with no spacer plate and no porting the exhaust would be at what 195 degrees? thats pretty wild if that is true. i am not too good at mota though so im probably wrong. with 2mm plate no porting, the exhaust port timing would drop a bunch. 185 degrees. probably make a nice midrange motor but have no topend. this assumes i am working with mota correctly. so basically, with a spacer plate you have poor port timings. without it you still get poor port timings. swolution? you need to port the motor when adding a stroker crank. theres no way around it.

the 2 stroke bottom end is painfully simple to take apart. the first time you take it apart you are thinking that as soon as you open the cases all these springs and gears come flying out and shit and you never gonna get it back together. haha atleast that is what i thought the first time i did it. but when you get the case halves apart and you actually look at everything and how simple and uncomplex it is, you think man im supprised they manages to make a complete engine and trans with such little parts. it seems like there so little parts that it shouldnt even work. in truth you dont even have to TOUCH the transmission. when you seperate the case halves, the trans gears and the shifter assembly stays exactly where it is, in the bottom of the case. there is basically nothing in the top part of the case except empty space , oh and the clutch lever. but thats painfully easy to take apart. all you have to do for clutch work is remove the clutch basket. theres 4 little phillips head screws and 2 brackets behind the backet you have to remove. i dont even think you have to remove the kick start shaft. probably dont even need to remove the front sprocket or the shift lever.

its easy. you take the clutch cover off. take the 5 pressure plate bolts and springs off. the pressure plate falls off. take the stock adjuster off and put the pancake adjuster on in its place. i think a pancake bearing is worth it on any banshee motor, even 100% stock. this is because motor mods dont effect the reliability of the clutch ball and shaft. the only thing that effects that is the clutch springs and how long you squeeze the clutch in while the motor is running. WHILE YOU ARE IN THERE. grab a set of hd clutch springs. run 3 hd or run all 6 hd. makes the clutch grab batter and the clutch will last longer. mod the shift star. makes shifting a lot easier. this one is pretty easy to do. just need a 32mm impact wrench and a few hand tools. install a billet impeller. the stock impeller has been known to crack, break or delaminate from the shaft. nothing runis a motor quicker than a broken impeller. well besides running straight gas. check the condition of the clutch discs and plates and replace as nessassary. if you run hd springs it will keep the clutch from slipping and wearing out. if you havent put springs in yet nows the time to check the current setup and see if anything needs replacing. those are my 'to do" list of things for inside the banshee clutch cover. all banshees can benefit from these mods. none of these mods improve performance. they are all for improving rideability or durability.

ive got an oem crank with 20 hours on it. it was sent out to get trued but it didnt need any trueing since it was not twisted so i got it back. the bearings and everything are in perfect shape. im asking $150 and ill include the shipping.

crank is still for sale. first $150 takes it.

nobody thinks youre bashing jeff. i dont hold any preference to any builder because they are ALL in the buisness of making money. you have to take what everyone says and does with a grain of salt. that is why i dont get the people here to advertise in their sigs for builders and aftermarket suppliers. unless they are getting paid to put it in their sig, whats the point.

i dont know enough about reeds to answer that. what i do know i learn from watching other people, espically the ones who are most concerned with power (drag racers). it has been said the best way to learn is from watching other people and learn from their mistakes. i am running stock reeds and stock cages. when i eventually need new reeds i will probably go with boyesen replacement petals and i might port my stock cages at the same time. but i have seen from people who port cages that it is almost an art form. you are almost guaranteed to wreck the first few sets of stock cages you port youreself. so im not so sure what to do. thankfully mt stock reeds are fine for now so ill keep researching the subject and by the time i actually NEED reeds, ill probably know what to do. i know there are people out there who port stock cages, and for rather cheap i might add. its just hard to find them.

i have bought a few things from fast racing. jeff seems like the kind of guy who would make things right if there was a problem. why dont you call him up and explain the situation. he would probably fix you up. by chance, this motor wasnt ported was it? that would explain the loss of compression. when i said 150psi with 22 cc domes that was for a 100% stock motor on the stock bore and no porting. if you had the motor bored it will change the compression because the ports get changed slightly. if you had it ported then it will also change the compression. just call jeff.

carbon fiber for atv is an interesting idea. from a weight perspective, you wont lose much. the stock plastics dont weigh much. espically after you race cut them. if these carbon fiber plastics weighed nothing at all (as light as air) you would only save a few pounds. since they dont weigh nothing, the gains are less than that. i dont know how much they actually weigh though so i used an extreme axample so get me point across. is the high cost worth it for such little gains? well from a racing perspective, no. you would be better off using that money on engine or suspension mods. and carbon fiber has the same problem that fiberglass has, it cracks when under stress. i have a street bike with carbon fiber front fairing. that thing cracks so easily its rediculous. from a bling factor, sure carbon fiber is worth it. nothing blings more than carbon fiber and chrome. so if all you want them for is the bling factor, then yes they are worth it. want them to reduce weight? not worth it. just take a big shit right before the race and theres youre few pounds of weight reduction.

i see alot of the older population or guys runing older bikes use golden spectro. espically in the vintage classes of dirtbike racing. i wonder why that is.

the rad valves are made more for dirtbikes and single cylinder 2 strokes that have an intake boot that is angled to the left or right. the rad valve is designed to help airflow through that angle. think of a blaster for example. the carb is angles to the side and the airflow through the intake boot makes a sharp turn. since the banshee intake boots are pretty much a straight shot from the carb to the reeds i dont think a rad valve would be worthwhile on a banshee. as supporting evidence, look at pictures of drag bikes. how many do you see running rad valves? almost none. how many do you see running v force reeds? again, not many. a few do. but most drag motors i see are using stock reed cages. i wonder what kind of reeds they use with the stock cages. my guess is some aftermarket reed petals and ported stock cages.

shoot me a pm and tell me about youre new build.

sad to see greenie go. anything i can do lmk. check out the video. http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=24qtkia&s=3

come on guys its $150 and free shipping and shipping insurance. someone buy this.

on a really nice tight new factory motor it will run 150psi with 22cc domes. so if you are running 145 with 21cc domes then chances are youre motor is a bit worn. you probably losing 15 to 20psi through the rings. instead of spenging $70 on domes, spend the money on a set of rings and a top end gasket kit. you will probbaly gain more power that way compared to new domes. and you get to keep running cheap pump gas. plus its good to open the top end once in a while to check things out.

50% is nothing. if you use klotz benol you get 65% increase. i have dyno charts to prove this!

as one of the few people who actually OWNS a hush kit i think i am a little qualified to give an opinion. as long as you keep the silencers freshly packed and the silencer orings are in good condition the hush kit works as advertised. it is also suppose to give you more top end power. i never was able to notice if it did or not. i dont understand why people dont like the hush kit. it works great.

as i understand it these oko carbs are becomming quite popular. a few months ago i had never even heard of them. now there are quite a few member with the swap. wondering if we can make a definitive guide to swapping over to oko's. where to buy, throttle cable requirements, jetting cross reference, intake manifold?, air filter? etc etc... i know theres bits and pieces on the forum about oko's, but to have all the info in 1 place would be a benefit to us all. so if you have info, post it up.

ok i got my hands on a crank from an 06 motor. the owner of the motor is going 4 mil and he gave me the crank to sell since i am going most of the work on his motor. this crank literally has about 20 hours on it. i did take drop it off at the local dealer to check it for trueness and see if the bearings and everything is in great shape. and they are. the dealer charged me for checking it out but they said this crank is perfect. its not twisted nothing wrong with it. the bearings are in perfect shape. the stator and gear ends are not damaged. all the threads are factory a ok. i personally removed this crank from the motor, so i KNOW the threads are not buggered up. so i offer this crank in guaranteed great condition for $150 shipped? everyone knows stock cranks are somewhat fragile when you start doing abusive things. the owner of this crank was not that type of person, but if you are and you twist this crank then its youre fault, not mine. this thing is comming to the buyer in as good as it gets condition. ill pay for shipping and shipping insurance at part of the 150 purchase price.

if you got cheetah its all over. i dont know how i would keep up with ya. im just a stock bore stock port never had my cylinders off kinda guy.

stock clutch can work well until you get youre first port job or stroker crank.

i got a little shitty chinese grease gun for a decade now with no problems. once i lost it and it sat out in the back yard in the dirt every day for a year. still works like new. i cant see spending bucks on a name brand gun when the cheapo ones last so long and cost as much as a 6er.

im not such a big fan of atv stands. its not like a dirtbike where you let go of the handlebars and it falls over on its side. atv comes with 4 work stands built in. they are the wheels. if for some reason you find the need to take all 4 wheels off at one time, then buy a stand i guess. ive never had that need.