csrmel

dao, my vehicles ARE debadged. why should i advertise for them? i will admit to one sticker. my little nephiew put a jets-r-us sticker on my banshee. i don't have the heart to remove it.

be careful posting things like that online. we all have had our fair share of great escapes. i have even mooned a few piglets. when they close down every place you have to ride, then you might as well go have fun and not care anymore about rules. nothing gets the adrenalin pumping like flashing lights behind you, or above you.

jeff is a great guy, i have done buisness with him in the past, will do again in the future. i have nothing bad to say about jeff or his company. the only real problem i ever saw was back in the day all those people advertising for fast in their signatures. this is not just a "fast" problem, it applies to all vendors. whats up with that? unless fast, passion, herr jugs, rb porting etc are PAYING you to advertise for them, why do it? thats as gay as k&n stickers. you dont see "call rb porting for all youre banshee needs" in my sig just because i paid rb to port my cylinders cut my domes and set them up for a stroker crank do ya? i may recommend rb once in a while, and i really dont see a problem with someone recommending a vendor to another person. no problem at all! unless rb did my work for free, why the feck should i advertise for him? jfor the most part, this problem has died down, there are still a few fast, passion and herr jugs sigs though. its just annoying to see users advertising vendors for free. that's my little pet peeve.

jan 1st is a thursday. lets setup a ride out for thursday friday saturday and sunday morning. call it a 3.5 day banshee festival or 2 strokin power bands. only problem is where do ya want to ride? there is no where good in palm beach. i was thinking maybe holylands, or ocala. anyone down for this? post up where ever you want to ride, the most responses to a particular area wins. its been a long time sence we had a florida meetup.

sadly, no one gives a shit about florida anymore. i use to port up to try and get people to meet up but no one ever does. i guess we all too busy trying to find jobs. fucking economy...

congratulations. it does a lot. fat is like a dynamic weight. when you take off from a drag launch the fat on youre body tends to want to stay in place, so even though you hold onto the handlebars, the fat sloshes backwards. same thing for hard braking, jumping, etc. i went from 265lbs to 220lbs and i noticed a huge improvement in acceleration, not to mention my physical stamina went way up. i can ride a lot longer before getting tired now. it's also easier to load/unload the banshee. plus i dont sweat as much. if you want to run hard and keep up with the skinny pricks you HAVE to lose the weight. it's the only way. if you get down to 215 or 200 you would gain a lot of acceleration, cornering and braking performance.

375, with youre setup, youre best bet is some light weight douglas alloy wheels and some 120/90-10 zuma scooter tyres. this is a light weight combo. its what i run. if you remove the front brakes and use the stock spindles, hubs and just run the thin douglas wheels with zuma tyres, its only a few lbs more than those expensive 2 or 3 inch spindleless seups. but you save a few hundred bucks. the spindle convert kits cost a lot and you only save a few lbs per side compared to blue label wheels and zuma tyres (espically worn down zuma tyres), so unless you are going all out it aint worth it for most people. if you are going to build an all out dedicated drag bike, then go for it. but i think i remember that you use youre banshe for dual purpose like i do. in that case, stick with the stock spindles and hubs. they really dont weigh that much, and the spindle weight is close to the axle to there is low inertia. (as weight gets farther from the centre of rotation its inetia grows exponentially. the spindleless setups do not take away much from the dynamic effect of interia close to the hub. they really only shine out by the tyres where the weight is more dynamic. if you want to drop a few lbs, drop some off youre body weight. thats what i did. its free too. im not saying youre fat or anything. but damn near everyone could lose a few lbs of body weight. i went from 260lbs to 218. and i still want to go lower, but im a big mother fucker at 6'5 and its getting hard to lose that last 20lbs. i think i would look emaciated if i went lower than 200lbs. however racing against 15 year old 110lb jockeys is motivation for me go sub 200. besides that, blue label douglas wheels with zuma tyres weigh about half of what a stock banshee front wheel and tyre weighs. take off the front brakes and it goes even lower. by the way i assume you have shaved off all the stock frame brackets for useless things like stock pipe mounts, front fender mounts, swing arm skid plate mount brackets, parking brake cable routing bracket, etc right? i think you can knock 5lbs off in 20 minutes with an angle grinder just going after unused brackets. tip the shee on her tail and attack it with the grinder! dont forget to touch it up with some pj1 factory matching paint or else that frame will rust out where you grind on it. since you use the banshee for dual purpose, i would advise against cutting supporting brackets, gussets and any actual tubing though.

north florida is too far for me. have fun though.

send me you address via pm and ill mail you a cd containing some very nice mp3's from kaku, hawking and others dealing with theoretical physics and quantum mechanics, string theory, mambrane theory, etc. i have a few of his radio interviews on mp3 too. they are too big to send via email. i only have ones that are interesting and colourful. none of the dull ones that put you to sleep. if you are like me, listening about string theory and all of the membranes in the multiverse is almost a moment of enlightenment. big bang? pshhh. i want to see the donut universe he briefly talks about the possibility of.

let me add to my original post. when i added my boost bottle, i did before and after testing on it via riding and even plug chopping. hey i am the curious type, and i had read before here, rather exhaustively, that boost bottles do nothing. well all that i read was true. i noticed NO need to change any carb settings at all. the plugs looked exactly the same. bike runs the same, idles the same, pipe hits at the same rpm's. no changes at ALL. NONE AT ALL END OF STORY. if you get a boost bottle of good quality, you will have no issues with intake boots cracking or any problems with broken manifolds.. the only real problem is that it takes up more room compared to a stock crossover tube so routing cables and wires becomes slightly more difficult. but that is a minor inconvenience to change a few routes of a cable or wire. no big deal. the psych factor for youre competition more than makes up for the lack of space problem the boost bottle creates. look at it like this, you see a typical stock appearing banshee motor and its got a boost bottle. you naturally think the owner is clueless. well dont make that mistake with me. my aggressive dune port stroker long rod with cpi inframes is a nasty motor, but it looks almost 100% stock from the outside. the boost bottle is icing on the cake. if someone asks me what motor mods i have, i say, boost bottle, pipes, pod filters, exhaust, and cool head and thats it. thats all you can see from the outside. from the inside, its a monster. but no one can see that. so most people think i have just a basic bolt on banshee. ...untill a drop down 2 gears and blow by their ass roosting the fuck out of their goggles. the other thing with a boost bottle, they look GOOD when polished up. that big wad of aluminum when polished to near chrome finish looks damn good next to a polished cool head and polished carbs, and the rest of the polished engine parts i have. so yeah, buy a shitty boost bottle,maybe the tubes are too wide and they crack the boots with use, i dont know. i bet different companies make boost bottles of differing quality levels and some probably have a low quality control level. mine fit just as good as the factory crossover tube. actually a little bit better if you can believe that. and it keeps the cables and wires off the hot head. anyone need a polished stock crossover tube? mines sitting in my parts bin. i bought a polished used boost bottle off ebay for $8 and thats what i run. sell my polished stock crossover for $8 to anyone that wants it.

i run a boost bottle so people will think my bike has a stock motor and that i dont know much about banshees. its a way to fake out the competition. and when i blow by their ass i tell them it was because of the boost bottle. it totally messes with their mind. some people get pissed and say no way, but i just point to it and tell them that the before and after was huge gains. but i agree boost bottle does NOTHING at all, well other then the psych factor i mentioned. it really does nothing for performance.

michio kaku is the shit. i have a number of his books and also some radio interviews on mp3 player. theoretical physics and quantum mechanics interest the fuck out of me. so much so that i some times dream about it. i personally have an iq of 142. thats pretty decent. i swear a lot though. its how i express my self. but i can sit down and have a conversation with you about string theory for hours at a time. who knows what string theory is?

the way you can make an alarm with a relay and micro switch in such a way that if they tried to cut the wire, or bypass it, it would go off. if they tries to bypass it with alligator clips it goes off. you have to really know electronics to get by a microwsitched alarm system. none the less, im going to microswitch the shit with small hidden wire, it doesnt even have to be wire, it would be 6lb test clear fishing line that would be nearly invisible going under a tyre or something. i should make a schematic in ms paint for you guys to check out. its really simple. i think the microswitch is called a reverse switch, or a hobbs switch or something like that. i forget the name exactly but i know what it is and radio shack has all the parts im sure.

i have 3 quads locked up with kyrptonite locks, cables and chains. i also have 3/4 inch threaded studs epoxied into the concrete. the chain goes over the stud, then a nut goes on the stud, then i weld the nut to the stud so the chain cannot be removed ever. this is how i lock my quads up. my keys are colour coated to match each bike (blue key for blue banshee, red key for red quad, etc). so i go to unlock my quads and none of the keys will fit into the locks. its like someone tried to jam a screwdriver into the key slots or something because my keys wont go in. also the quads were generally moved around a bit, as though someone tried to just pull them out by hand. but with the studs epoxied into the ground, they would need a 4wd truck, and that would bend and break the atv frames before it breaks the monster chains and locks i use. i got some big fuckin chain and cables. so i feel good now that some thief went through all that trouble and got nothing. im out about $60 in locks since im going to need to use a cutting torch to get them off, but $60 is cheaper than theft insurance. and at least i know my shit is really secure. fuckin thieves. im thinking about adding motion detector too though. a small wire attached to each quad, if the wire is pulled, an alarm goes off thats loud as hell. that way if it happens again i can catch them in the act. id love to beat the shit out of some punk with my baseball bat or a crowbar. should be easy to rig up an alarm like that using a car horn, a 12v relay, a 12v transformer, and a few microswitches, all of which i have laying around. that way if someone ever got smart and came by with a cutting torch i would know about it via audible horn.

you have to taake the clutch cover off and it is right physically in the middle of the clutch plates. should be a phillips if i remember correctly. this is an important step, most people forget or dont even know about.

what kind of heavy ass duty clutches you sall using? ive never expierenced arm pump or cluth hand fatigue, and i ride fairly hard with 6 trinity heavy duty drag springs. th key is to adjust the clutch adjustment screw under the clutch cover so it aligns with the marks on the top of the trans., also take the clutch cable off the bike, literally off the bike. put one end of the cable in a bench mounted vise and start dripping atf down the cable while working it up and down through th cable sheath. after a whie some brown goo will come out, thats just olf grease and dirt. keep lubing the cable until only bright red atf comes out the bottom, all the time working the cabler in and out of thre sheath. by this time you notice that clutfh cablr resistance had reduced 50%-150%. next take the clutch lever off and clean and relube it with antiseize. make sire to use a hand vise or better yet a bench top mounted table vise bolted to the top of a table. and crimp the clutch perch slowly tighter and tighter untill it almost has resistance. meaning that th clutch lever no longer has up and down free play. even brand new factory clutch levers and perches have too much slop in this area. so the clutch lever has minimal up and down slack once you do it rite. dont forget to route the clutch cvable so that it has minimal bends and kinks. if you have to make a brnd, make it as wide as possible. to date i have NEVER found a smoother cable and clutch pull system than the oem setup as long as its oiled properly. aslthough i have not tried a hydraulic clutch. i have tried those easy pull leveres and perches, terry cablesd, etc. its all bs. i run 6 trininty drag springs and my clutch is only slightly stiffer than stock. maybe 10%, 15% stiffer. thats not bad. other guys who dont maintain ther cable , perch, adjustments, etc and have similar setups to mine have 3-4 times the clutch pull force required. its all in the maintenance.

got a internal parasite from walking throuth in scummy water .been in and out of hospital. mri, cat scan, puking bile, the shits, etc. antibiotics are making me physically ill like ie never been before. i puke so hard i pass out. i didnt . go. to l cross. sorry for typing with 1 hand. the other is swollen up too much. lots of my body is swollen up big time. they say in a few weeks it will die out and ill make a full recovery with no lasting effects. and it not contagious.. but for now its like internal hell.

haha i love this. someone mentioned 20 year old tech. guess what? the 4 stroke was first ran in 1860. thats 148 year old tech for ya dude. 1880 is when the 2 stroke was born. so them 450's are 20 year older tech then any banshee ever was. you had it opposite. we are all running "old" tech. want some newer tech? go build a miller cycle hybrid quad with lithium ion batteries and regenerative brakes. at least that would be 60's tech. 40 year old technology isn't too bad. nevermind 1860 or 1880.

you dont need heim joints or any real bushings on a strut. it doesnt pivot up and down since it is no longer suspension. just a piece of aluminum with 2 holes drilled through and some spacers is all thats needed. im running struts made out of an aluminum pole from a 6 foot wide patio umbrella and its held up well, even on grass and dirt drags and screwing off in my yard on wet grass with american racers. now thats some fun drifting lol) not to mention the asphault drags at moroso.

its at the top west corner of lake okeechobee. go to the website for directions or call them. yes they check id. you have to be 18 to get in the gate.

l-cross.com its more of a mudding place, but theres dry areas so you dont ruin those open element air filters. i usually just ride out to the edge of the mud and watch the girls get naked and mud wrestle. i never go in the mud myself. my banshee is too nice for that shit. but the loads of drunk redneck girls, swamp buggies, 4wd pulls, etc make it a blast to go and have fun. its almost better watching them get stuck and try forever o get out! there is also a small section to drag race in the dirt, so bring a banshee and you automatically have one of the fastest vehicles out there. last time i was there no one could beat me. you have to be 18 to get in because this is an adult weekend. yes that means nudity, lots of it. last time i was there one of the swamp buggies had a stripper pole mounted on the back. how can you NOT want to go see that? best thing is you dont need no registration, no sticker, nothing. they dont check quads for that stuff since its private property. just bring an id because like i said you got to be 18 to get in the gate. once youre in the gate its a free for all and they dont check anymore. im going with about 4 other people from my neighbourhood. anyone else down to go?

i generally agree with bigred350x. jeff and fast sound like a great place but they need to hire some more people to help with the lode if they get that many calls and emails a day. i talk to jeff before on the phone. sometimes his back lode of work is 6 months or more! jeff is a nice guy and i thank him for the call but i cant wait that fuckin long. i dont even know what i would do waiting 6 months for a set of ported jugs. you guys want to wait 6 months or more for a parts turn around? i went with trinity and got my shit back in like 2 weeks. hell it takes ups around 4-5 days just to get there, another 4-5 to get back. so thats pretty quick. maybe trinity cost about 15% more then fast this is true, maybe they tech support is not as good, but i git a hold of a tech at trinity each time i called. and they seemed knowledgeable to me. ill be godamned if im going to wait 6 months or more on parts turnaround. i bought my banshee to run, not sit naked in my garage waiting on someone else. rockymountainatv trinityracing cascadeinnovations all have good tech support, good turnaround, low wait time, etc. there are other good places with low turn around, but i dont have expierence with them so i wont list. ill bet i get some shit from some of you big name members for listing trinity, so fuck you in advance.

stock pistons are great for motors that have stock or mild porting and also have bolt on parts like exhaust, timing, head intake etc. i ran my stock pistons for a few years before going to a bigger setup and when i pulled them out they looked fucking great. and i always ran lean jetting according to most of you guys. lean is mean though. my stock pistons after a few years of abuse look 95% new. rings still within spec for the gap and everything. i could of put them right back in but i had to order a set of 795s if you know what i mean.

loco you silly fuck, macdizzy doesnt build all out world class drag motors. he is a midrange kind of guy as far as i can tell. you are adapting a fallacy straw man approach and its really fuckin you up right there. no offense, but look it up at this link. http://www.nizkor.org/features/fallacies/straw-man.html that is you in this context. now look at all the articles on the macdizzy site, they are geared to midrange and improving bottom end without reducing top end. that is not the type of rider that i am, but the info is still very easily adapted to dune or drag if you have a little more sence than youre stripper avatar makes you out to be. i have a macdizzy membership, one of the best things i ever did. there is some really sick technical info in the forums. too bad no one updates the info anymore. the forums are all but dead. only a few new posts per day. but the archives are fuckin great. i wouldnt mind sharing out my macdizzy username and password to a few of the more trusted members here. i have done it before. sorry to single you out but the straw man thing tweaked my main jets a little lean. p.s my cylinders were dune ported and set up for a 4 mil by trinity, not macdizzy.

thing with planet sand is there are people there who really know their shit well. if you ask a stupid question, like where to get a clutch saver, you get a few replies and thats cool. but if you ask a super technical question that people know the answer to but it is considered a secret, all you will get as a reply is a few smiley faces, if you get a reply at all. nobody shares the really GOOD info no matter what youre membership level is at. if you dont know the answer they simply wont tell you. i guess this is because they are hard core drag racers and wont want competitors to learn each others secrets. but that makes for a shitty forum. and half their answers (if you do get replies) are basically "go spend money on this really expensive part or send youre parts to this super expensive machine shop that charges 3 times what a normal shop charges". planet sand is mostly for hard core drag racers with deep wallets. that is not me. that is not most people. i made a post basically nailing a list of my grievances on the wall like martin luther did. i said to them what i said to you guys. i am now banned and i dont care bansheehq is a better site anyways. it isnt for super technical discussions but if i need some technical shit to talk about i go to macdizzy anyways. those are some fuckin 2 stroke freaks over at macdizzy. i bet a few of them sleep with 2 stroke expansion chambers in their beds.