csrmel

looks like a bit of plastic or metal that fits under the throttle slide. theoretically i guess it could work but if it worked as well as they claim why didnt mikuni include this $2 piece on all their carbs right from the factory. perhaps its another tornado fuel saver, but for motorcycle carbs. nice way to tap into a new market.

i had thought of a longer swinger but i would like to try and use the stock one. theres no rules that i know of preventing me from using it, so id like to try and make it work. besides that, if i go to longer swinger i need new chain, new brake line, probably lose my sprocket skid plate too. its an option, but something i would rather save for a last ditch. i did mess with clutch slipping, but that burns the crap out of the clutch so bad. i would be changing clutches once a month i think. perhaps that is the price of speed. the dual stage idea sounds cool, but thats probably way expensive. 375, this bike rips on the trails. its missing a lot of bottom end power, but the top end is so explosive, the first time i rode it after breakin it in the power caused the handlebars to get ripped right out of my hands. i almost fell off. it was fun but scary. you should come to palm beach and ride sometime. at low rpm's its totally predictable. with my nephiew or neice on the seat i can tool around the yard all day and not have a problem as long as i keep the rpm's below the point at which the cpi's start working, its as predictable as a 300ex. the whole key it to keep the rpm's below the cpi's working rpm's and like i said its just a loud 300ex at that point.

i run a strutted banshee with american racer tyres. the rest of the bike is pretty typical. 4mm crank, aggressive dune port cyls. cpi's, lightweight frame. struts instead of shocks. 16t front sprocket. bla bla bla. i have a wheelie bar to keep the front end down since im using a stock swinger. i have major problem launching. its like i have too much traction or something. i rev the piss out of the motor when the lights go yellow. when i launch, the motor just bogs down real bad when i let out the clutch. the motor literally bogs down to idle rpm's. i try to feather the clutch but that just makes me shoot off to the left or the right and almost crash. it only does this at the drag strip. the exact same setup launches like a mofo on the street. i can launch to freakin hard on the street that i bent my handlebars. i can beat the snot out of all kind of cars and bikes on the street. its just crazy how quick this thing is. so i think the problem is due to the increased traction of the drag strip. they spray sugar water or someting on the track to make it like flypaper. my feet stick to the track. the american racers are almost like gummy bears. by the way i tried increasing tyre pressure up to 20psi. i couldnt tell if it helped or not. but the bike launches so freakin hard that you have to actively work to hold onto the handlebars. it just bogs so bad though. this cant be right. my motor runs good. real good. i have done plug shops and got it jetted really well. i dont think its a motor or chassis problem, although i could drop the rear end down about a foot more if you guys think that will help me launch. i could also drop the front sprocket. those are the areas where i think i am having problems with. my wheelie bar works great. but i launched so hard the last time i was at the strip that i broke the wheelie bar in half. the other problem i have is shifting. for some reason on tarmac i have a really hard time shifting. i will miss 3 to 5 gear shifts during the 1/8th mile. this really kills my et. basically because of all the missed gear shifts and poor launching, im on par with 400ex's in the 1/8th mile. and i know this banshee should be destroying them. even a stock shee can take 400ex's in the 1/8th. so i have a major problem here. the funny thing is that this doesnt happen when i drag or ride in the dirt. on the dirt i can nail those shifts perfectly each time without trouble. but as soon as i hit tarmac i miss shifts like you guys cant imagine. the ONLY thing i can think of is the different boots i use for dirt and street. the thing is that my drag strip wont allow my dirt boots to be used on the strip so i cant test this idea. im sure some of you have run into this problems before. wondering what yall think.

i put my cpi's on today and did a plug choip. it was spot on with the same jetting i used for toomeys. for my bike the cpis have more bottom end and midrange than the toomeys. but the pipe hits at a later rpm. when it does hit though, oh my god its crazy. i let my buddy ride it and the handlebars got ripped right out of his hands in 3rd gear.

toomeys quit making good power at about 9100 rpm. thats about the rpm at which cpi's start making power.

got any updates? like i said im going through the exact same transition on my bike. my cpis just came in today.

im having trouble picturing where exactly that goes. obviously near the gas cap. but whats the deal.

for that fitting you can use a stock banshee fiber gasket. there's no reason that this fitting needs to be oringed. its not bad to use an oring obviously, but its not needed. a fiber gasket works fine.

wheelie city.

to me that looks like a rail designed to keep the chain on when you have an extended swinger and are not using a chain block and rollers. seems like it might be beneficial for drag quads. they have those long ass swingers and the chains usually whip around becuase its so damn long.

thats what i was going to suggest. go to a local bearing supply house. bearings for atv's and motorcycles are rediculously expensive. they have a HUGE markup on certain atv related things like bearings.

most of those expensive filter oils are just regular oil with a tacifier added to it to make the oil sticky. same thing as chainsaw bar and chain oil. only bar and chain oil costs about $3 a gallon at walmart. to clean the filter, dish soap, simple green, engine degreaser, purple power, etc all work well.

a lot of the companys mentioned have wait times of literally months. you want to have the engine apart on the shelf for a few months? go with rb racing. they have only a week turn around time right now. i have personal expierence with his work. top notch. thats damn good since the season for motor work is picking up.

i seem to remember grand river racing makes custom pipes for about $600. you should give them a shout and see what they say. they might even cut ya a deal since its a neat project.

you can convert to it simply by changing the jets and a bit more fuel work as was already stated by everyone else. but in order to take real advantage of it, you need significantly advanced timing, different compression domes, and not just higher compression. proper alchy domes have a different squish band than gas domes. this isnt something you can buy off the shelf. those domes probably need to be custom made because they are not a high volume product. maybe some people carry them, but i wouldnt know.

when you widen ports exhaust and transfer ports, knife edge the intake bridge (i have seen people even remove it for whatever reasons that i dont really know) , etc. you decrease the amount of surface area youre rings have to slide by when the pistons are down. when the piston is down and the ports are exposed the rings do slightly bulge outward since theres nothing to stop them and they have a natural tension to expand.. with a ported motor, they would bulge more than stock. its probably not a big deal, but it is an issue, espically with proper porting they shave a touch of metal off the edges of the ports to provide a smooth transition for the rings. although people still get a really long life out of a ported motor. this is why a lot of 2 strokes have a bridge in the exhaust. the banshee doesnt have an exhaust bridge, but a lot of them do. its for ring bulging when the ports are open.

another variable is porting. the more aggressive the port job, the quicker the rings wear out. if you ride the banshee respectfully and not abuse it r overheat it you should get at least 50-70 hours out of a top end. i know i did. i bought mine new 2 years ago and to this day i still have factory perfect compression. i have at least 60 hours on this motor. i use this bike, sometimes hard, but i never abuse it. i always let it fully warm up before riding too. never let it overheat. i take religious care of my air filters and premix. actually wash my filters 6 times in a row when they need cleaning. the first and second time get 98% of the crud, the next 3 times there is still a bit of sand that comes out. the 6th time i wash they usually come out clean with no sand in the sink and thats when i quit. call that overkill but i challenge anyone else to show me a factory motor with perfect compression after 2 years and 60 hours of use. i think the 3 main things that kill properly tuned banshee motors are poor air filters, overheating and lack of respect of warm up time.

i am also doing the t5 to cpi thing. i talked to rob from rb racing and he said you shouldnt need to change mains or pilots when switching from t5's to cpi. just change needles. take that for what it worth.

why no porting? you will get significantly more power by porting and a set of pipes than ALL the other mods combined.

new parts are used parts that havent seen any action yet.

porting does very basically 2 things. i changes the rpm's at which the engine starts pulling hard, and it tries to improve overall flow. when someone gets a trail port or a mx port basically the rpm's are changed little to none, but the ports casting flaws are cleaned up. some parts are shank edged, etc. basically a trail port or mx port doesnt add much power. something more aggressive like a midrange port raises the exhaust and transfer durations which means the exhaust pipe wont twattled until a later rpm. building torque at a higher rpm means more horsepower. also the casting flaws are taken care of and such. this is what most people get. a dune port is basically a real agressive midrange port. generally speaking its designed to give ya lots of top end without completely killing the bottom end and midrange. casting flaws and such.... so we come to the drag port. this is for all out power. the higher rpm's at which you make torque, the more horsepower you have. a drag port is designed to make loads of torque at high rpm's. it does this at the expense of bottom end power, and even midrange. drag ported motors can have fancy triple exhaust ports that cost a lot of $$$. keep in mind that you can get any porting you want. want something in between an mx and a dune? or an agressive dune port? how about a mild drag port. you can do almost anything you can think of. the words mx dune, agressive and drag are only words. also note that just as important as the porting, youre type of exhaust pipe basically dictates what porting you can go with. you HAVE to match youre porting to youre pipe. you would lose a lot of power by using a drag port with a pro circuit pipe, or a shearer pipe with an mx port. if you dont match the pipes and port work you power suffers and funny things happen to the powerband. maybe the bike is super peaky within a narrow rpm, or maybe it never really gets on the pipe. you need to have the porting matched to whatever pipe you run. and the pipe must be matched to whatever type of riding you run. sounds funny but you almost have to build a 2 stroke backwards from the pipe on up.

you dont need a port job for ocala. you dont even need aftermarket pipes. ocala is 99% suspension and rider. only time the engine comes into play is when we stop at the roads and drag race!

i just bought the pipes from him.

man i just bought a set for 360 like half an hour ago. sorry man.

ive been to c&r quite a few times for mud fests also. but thats about 100 miles out of palm beach. lots of t&a there as well. but the owner is a prick. hes got a bullhorn on his swamp buggy and likes to heckle people. makes fun of people, harass girls. hes a real prick. plus, c&r is strictly mud. theres NOTHING there for a banshee. at l-cross they at least have a real mx track and at the adult event they have a strip show. last time i was there a swamp buggy had a stripper pole on the back of it. oh that was fun to watch. need a cup holder on my banshee.