csrmel

make sure this isnt a hoax before going out and doing it. and you can bet the local pigs wont divulge any info. i would love to know about this as i live on a dirt road and my whole neighborhood is dirt roads. i could ride for hours and not go down the same road twice.

judging by how many people dont follow the factory banshee manuals guidelines on what premix you are suppose to use, and yet these people still get away with it (atleast for a while). im starting to think it just doesnt matter what ratio you run, as long as its within reason. ill contuinue to stick to running 25:1 though. when removed my head to put a cool head on, my factory cylinders were so clean looking that you would swear they were new. not a single scratch on them, and the cross hatching was so crisp you could see if from across the garage.

dajogejr, after thinking about the tether and what you said about it being a requirement for certain forms of racing, im starting to believe it is probably a good idea for all types of quad running. im probably going to put a tether on mine. i notice the banshee has enough torque at idle that it will propel its self in 1st 2nd and 3rd without using the throttle, so a runaway quad is a real possibility if ya fall. i would hate to fall off and have to get back up and run after my banshee as its idling down the road in 3rd. for the kill switch guy with problems and anyone else. see if you can spray some wd40 into the switch, or better yet there is actually a powdered graphite prodict which you can buy that is actually made for switches, locks and other stuff of that similar nature. it wouldnt be a bad idea to give the switch some lube once in a while. actually it would also be good to go the headlight switch and even the on-off key once in a while too. im thinking once a year should be plenty.

what i am wondering is if youre old and gay stock coil could of been replaced with a new stock coil and gave the same effect. i guess well never know.

ill be the first to admit that im no expert on on this stuff but it seems to me that a boost bottle supposedly works off the helmholtz resonator principle. in theory a boost botttle should work. it is a very real way to boost volumetric efficency, you see it on special automotive intake manifold setups. the problem is in reality i have never seen one built for a banshee thats big enough to actually do anything. im just guessing here based off my extremly limited knowledge however i think it would need to be the size of a couple 2 litre bottles to properly work on the extremly short intake tract of a banshee. and the openings which connect it to the intake would need to be atleast 50% as large as the intake its self. the stock cross over tube ports are just too small to do anything. those little junk bottles the crappy companys sell wouldnt do anything for a banshee. the way i view it is if a company sells junky things like boost bottles, i view that company as a company that will take youre cash and not give you anything meaningfull in return, yet lie and try to make you think youre faster or whatever. i tend to stay away from those type of places because they are easy places to waste alot of cash on things that dont really do any good.

has anyone ever dyno tested this coil on a banshee to compare before and after?

people like that are a tax on the economy. the ammount of money spent on legal fees etc on people like this each year in america is prtobably billions of dollars. they should tie a noose around his dick and balls and hang hin by them untill he is dead if for no other reason than to relieve the economy from the burden of funding all the legal hearings, prison time, food, etc that a person like this requires.

i bought a millenium falcon edition banshee the other day. it comes with a light sabre.

every once in a while someone comes along and does something different that looks really good and is worth a complement. that someone is you.

i tried 350's on my t5's after i put on some free flowing uni intakes and its way the hell rich after doing a plug chop.

just this weekend i tried using an automotive flywheel puller on my banshee and it did not work very good. if i kept tightening it i believe i would have deformed my flywheel, so i stopped before i did any damage. theres really only 1 good way to remove the flywheel, and that is with the banshee flywheel puller.

the more i see youre posts the more i like you bigred. pick me, i was planning on slotting my timing plate. if i got it things would be easier.

awalys store gas out of direct sunlight, (dont use clear cans). and also try not to store it so that the cans themselves are exposed to sunlight. things like heat, sunlight, water contamination, 2 stroke oil all greatly shorten the lifespan of a gasoline. personally, because i live in south florida and my storage shed gets to be over 100 degrees inside it, i wont use gasoline in a carbuterror equipped engine if the gasoline is over 1 month old. ill dump it in my fuel injected car. it seems like 1 month is about the limit for gas here considering its high storage tempature. any longer than a month and the gas starts to get that turpentine-old-gas-smell. the reason i wont use old gas in a carbed engine is because its more likely to leave deposits behind in the float bowl and on the float needle, in the jets, etc. its NOT worth the hassle to me of cleaning carbs more frequently than i have to. also one time i use some 3-4 month old 93 octane gas in my banshee and the fucker pinged at low to medium rpm's. i couldnt tell if it pinged when on the pipe because the exahust is too loud. i guess i could use sta-bil but again its not worth it to me when i can just as easily dump the old gas in my car and use it with no problems. for what its worth, ive heard that lead gas or av gas will store longer before going bad. sence i have never used anything but pump gas i cannot confirm this. in northern climates where it never gets hot gas can last a really long time. in northern minnesota my dad has some stored gas for 2 years and it still smelled good and didnt cause anything to ping. and he didnt even use any gasoline stabiliser.

i got it last night, brand new in the box. in perfect condition. everyting is included. and so those that asked, i dont want to sell it. thanks. i guess its time to update my signature.

you could take the timing plate off and slot it with a hand file. thats awalys free. uhm, i guess you could remove the air snorkel and or drill a few 1 inch holes in the airbox lid, but i think you might need to rejet after that so i guess its out of the question. really there isnt a whole lot you can do for absolutely no money at all. i mean you cant even afford to buy jets or reed gaskets. i suppose you could remove stuff like brackets and fenders and the coolant tank, but all of these items only weigh a few lbs after adding them up. its not gonna make any difference. there would be a bigger difference depending on if you ate dinner or not. if you could scrape together $20 or $100 now i could work with that. you could take the timing plate off and slot it with a hand file. thats awalys free. uhm, i guess you could remove the air snorkel and or drill a few 1 inch holes in the airbox lid, but i think you might need to rejet after that so i guess its out of the question. really there isnt a whole lot you can do for absolutely no money at all. i mean you cant even afford to buy jets or reed gaskets. i suppose you could remove stuff like brackets and fenders and the coolant tank, but all of these items only weigh a few lbs after adding them up. its not gonna make any difference. there would be a bigger difference depending on if you ate dinner or not. if you could scrape together $20 or $100 now i could work with that.

if youre already bored 65 over ( i missed that part) you might not want to have those cylinders ported. their usefull life is starting to get limited. maybe you could get a new sleeve or something put in and then port them.

no, steering stem, or some frame part is directly in the way. you gotta mount em in the front. it doesnt look bad though. ill get some pics one day and post em up.

you try wearing pants when its 105 degrees in the SHADE. it gets so hot out in the florida sun that if i had to wear pants and boots and all that shit i would just quit riding. i dont mind wearing pants but honestly i like riding naked so i need to find something to keep the pipes from burning me.

i had one, it got stolen. i bouht another one, brand new. my 2005 was bought brand new in the box this year. its only 6 months old.

ive ridden the cpi's before. they are definitly a top end pipe. i would say that the cpi's start pulling about when a stock pipe quits pulling. they would be great for high speed stuff or duning, dragging, etc. but as a woods pipe, they are not good at all.

rb porting seems to do good cheap work. i have looked into them and have not found a single person who isnt satisfied with their work. http://groups.msn.com/RBRacingTwoStrokePorting/porting.msnw

because t5's stick out like a sore thumb, they seem to awalys burn me and others. even when i take a kid on a low speed ride i usualy hear an "ouch" once or twice each time. when adults ride my banshee they also suffer the wrath of the toomeys. i have perminant scarring on my legs from the toomeys. and the pipes are discoloured where so many people have left pieces of skin on the pipe and it remains there forever. i found a rpoduct called moose pipe armour. heres a link http://www.mooseracing.com/catalog.jsp?lin...%20Hard%20Parts im thinking that although this pipe armour is designed to protect a pipe from rocks, it may be beneficial on a banshee by buying 2 of them and placing it up on the side of the pipe where one normally gets burned. what say you people? should i plop down the $35 per side and try it out?

i am inclined to agree. i talked with toomey and they told me boyesen replacment reeds give about 1 extra hp. i dont know if anyone could actually feel an extra hp. i imagine there might be more with v force 3 because it includes better cages and better design, but i cant see it being a big gain like pipes.

i dont have any pics of my banshee but heres a pic of the full wave bridge diode. http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/images/FWBL354.jpg basically, theres 2 inputs, and 2 outputs. a/c goes in from the 2 wires comming out of the stator. dc comes out. you have to mount it on a heatsink, i used a computer cpu heatsink. i used 4 120mm sunon high speed computer fans. http://project-2501.net/gallery/sales/Suno...20mm%20Fan.jpeg turns out they are a perfect fit for the radiator. you can even retain the stock radiator shrouding. the fans fit very nicely in the shroud. only thing you have to ditch is the plastic radiator grille. at just under 7 watts each, it wont tax the stator much as long as you dont run lights at the same time. also to help with lighting i installed a led tail light bulb, http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/89sw.jpg anyone who runs the stick lighting system on a banshee knows that if you apply the brakes, it makes the headlights dim. an led tail light bulb draws almost no power at all. i think its a couple watts. so now when i hit the brakes the headlights , or the fans, wont dim/slow down.

how can it ruin countless rides? if the tors system acts up all you need to do is unplug the box untill you can get around to fixing the system.