csrmel

cound a banshee make it around those bigger trails without running out of gas? geez 16 or 24 miles is a long way walk if you break something.

theres no way that lid can require a 350 main using stock exhausts. something is wrong with the instructions. are you sure it doesnt say 250? even 250 would be high.

i appreciate the responses guys. im probably going to grab an etrex with the colour display. with the large ammount of trails i ride, i get lost often enough running new trails that i think a gps would be worth it. besides, i think it would be just plain cool to be able to tell my elevation, speed, and how many miles ive gone.

some of these things are very subjective. whats wrong with the parking brake? i use mine whenever i put my banshee on the trailer or in the back of the truck. (in addition to straps). i somtimes also use it when parking on a hill. how can a parking brake be a known problem? its just a cable and a cam on the caliper! whats wrong with tors? ive seen more than a few posts on this website about people with tors removed and whos throttles have stuck open and they crashed into things like trees. had these people left the tors connected, they probably wouldnt have crashed because the tors would have cought the problem and limited the rpm. if you keep the tors in proper working order it can save youre ass, as well as youre motor if 1 slide sticks partly open and you dont realise it, you can run lean and blow a motor. tors is a life saver for twin cylinder machines. but yet everyone seems to think its junk. my banshee has tors and i have no plans to ever remove it. if it ever acts up, all i need to do is disconnect the single connector running to the black box under the tank and the problem is avoided and i can continue to ride at my leisure. then i can fix whatever part of tors broke whenever i can find time. to top it off i can do jet changes without disconnecting the tors. it doesnt even get in the way of jetting changes or carb work. the stock swingarm adjustment system, its not THAT bad if you keep it in good working order. the key here is proper maintence. i keep my swing arm bolts and nuts lubed with antiseize. makes adjustments a snap. actually i have a feeling that alot of people dont maintain quads very well. im not going to call anyone here out but there is alot more to maintence than plugs jets and oil changes.

i cant answer the cheetah question but i can help with the head question. ive got a pro design cool head and a digital infrared tempature gun. to be honest with you i think the cool head dropped my head temps about 5-10 degrees. this was measured over a variety of conditions, from rain riding to 100 degrees in the sun, trail riding to spinning donuts in dust bowls and some mild hill shooting. a friend of mine has a banshee and reciently got a noss head, ive shot his engine plenty of times with my heat gun before the head swap. afterwards he got about the same results i did, 5-10 degree drop. they dont seem to cool much better than stock.

when you brake with the rear wheels see if the chain goes slack with the clutch pulled in, and try it with the clutch out (engine braking). id be interested too.

not jet related, but is there a clearence issue that he needs the reed spacers? if not, you can remove and sell them on ebay. they do no good unless you need extra space.

im sick of my exhausts leaking. im going to spring for the silicone hose and a couple small radiator clamps too.

do you have an mso for each quad? those can be traded in for titles.

ether trick doesnt work anymore. i tried it a month ago on some truck tyres. ether doesnt explode like it use to, it just burns fairly quick. i think they changed the formula of ether or something.

back in the day i would use a wratchet strap around the tyre to squish it so that the beads would expand outwards. give it a try. may take some finaggling and soap suds though.

you cant. good score!

thanks for the reply. ill look into my cables and see if i can afford a 2 inch rise with the stock cables and wires. does anyone else have anyhting to offer?

back in the day before aftermarket coils became cheap and popular on motorcycles, i had seen alot of people running autmotive coils on their bikes. i wonder if there would be anything to gain by trying one on a banshee.

dont forget to get a banshee flywheel puller so you can swap in that stator plate. also i think the best deals are to be found on ebay. they often times have the best price on new items, and if you dont mind buying used parts, you can find good used parts on ebay for pennies on the dollar compared to new.

i just got back from the dmv, i brought a printout of th website and i tried to get them to give me some sort of offical florida document with a state seal showing that it is now legal to ride on dirt roads. i was unsucessfull. they had no such documents, but they said sence this is so new, they might still be on the way. basically, i would advise that noone ride on public roads untill we can all get offical florida documents showing that its legal to show the cops. and you can bet you will be getting pulled over. so you need this dicument. if anyone else in florida would care to drop by their dmv and inquire about this, it would be most appreciated.

you didnt even read what i typed did you.

wow thats fantastic!@ now heres a new problem, say i go out tomorrow and ride around on my dirt roads. obviously im going to get pulled over because im sure the cops dont knnow about this new legislation. i think that we will need some sort of offical document to show the cops that its legal to ride because they obviously are not going to believe anyone who just tells them "some new law was passed".

on a 4 stroke, like my car for example, the tensioner is hydraulic and to top it off, its got a 1 way clicker so that it can never loosen, only tighten. i still dont see how this would keep the chain tight on deceleration if theres no hydraulics or 1 way clickers involved.

uni makes universal pods that you can fit right onto the carbs(just like k&n pods) , or you can build youreself an intake runner similar to this one. http://www.fiber-lite.com/ATV_main.htm for about $45 shipping included in cost and half hours worth of time. i made that exact fibre lite manifold setup with the sole difference in that i used thin wall aluminum intercooling tubing instead of carbon fibre. like i said $45 and 30 minutes. i got the tubing and filters off ebay. for a coolant bracket, you use use a hand saw and cut the back off the stock airbox. sence the stock airbox has a coolant bracket, all you need to do is cut the back end off and bolt the rear section back up to the frame and it holds the coolant tank in the stock place. with foam uni's, my intake remains spoitless, i run a white rag down the carbs and it comes back perfectly clean.

that looks great for acceleration when the motor is pulling the top of the chain tight and the bottom of the chain has alot of slack, but what about when you decelerate? then the rear sprocket is pulling the top of the chain loose and the bottom of the chain tight. it seems to me that this tensioner would only work while you are accelerating. when you decelerate it would have no effect so i guess what im trying to say is i think its not a very usefull product.

im 6'6 and i am starting to believe that a steering stem that has 2 inches of extra hight would help reduce fatigue for me. i was looking over my stock stem and i think if i cut it in half and welded on a sleeve i could extend it 2 or so inches. im good with a welder, so what do you guys think? i know people cut and extend the swing arm, anyone cut and extended the stem before?

i had awalys thought that aftermarket reeds wouldnt make any difference on a stock bore-stroke-ported engine, but im begenning to think this is not the case. i reciently learned that modern 125cc 2 stroke dirtbikes have a larger reed area than our 175cc banshee cylinders. that seems to me to leave alot of room for improvement. i think im going to spring for a set of v force 3's.

i also dont like k&n for general use. if you are racing and need every last fluid ounce of air maybe a k&n will work good enough, but it does let dirt through. ive seen it on quads, dirtbikes, hell my dads dodge ram diesel with banks turbo kit has a k&n and his intake between the filter and the turbo is also coated in dust on the inside. most people dont race their quads in compatition, they are just casual riders. for most of us a foam filter provides better filtration and probably 90% of the airflow of a k&n.

banshee reeds/intakes are already straight , theres no angle like on a dirtbike. im pretty sure dirtbike type inlets are where rad vbalves really shine, to help the flow make that turn into the case area. on a banshee the air has a straight shot from the filter through the carb and into the reed cage, so a rad valve wouldnt actually help anything.