csrmel

hey you guys should grab atv fury 4 and go online with the ps2 network adaptor. we could all race each other.

harbor freight has a 4x8 trailer for under $200. it comes complete with everything. i have one and its pretty sweet.

personally i like to run a low cost chain and sprocket combo, and i just change them out sooner that one would normally do with expensive parts. the cost is about the same but this way i KNOW i have good parts.

the stock phillips head bolts are kind of shitty imo. i would like to replace them all with allen head bolts. is there a kit i can buy for this or am i stuck making multipule trips to the hardware store while i try and figure out what all i need?

357hp, isnt 150 kind of low for 20cc domes? im getting 147psi and 148psi with 22cc domes. the noss machine website says with 20cc you should be at around 169psi. These pressures are estimates based on fresh stock bore, piston, porting, and deck height. It is recommended to check your compression after installation. Sea Level 1000' 2000' 3000' 4000' 5000' 18cc 197 178 171 170 165 145 19cc 183 167 160 158 152 137 20cc 169 156 149 146 140 129 21cc 156 145 138 134 128 121 stock 130 125 118 112 106 100 http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

357hp, isnt 150 kind of low for 20cc domes? im getting 147psi and 148psi with 22cc domes. the noss machine website says with 20cc you should be at around 169psi. These pressures are estimates based on fresh stock bore, piston, porting, and deck height. It is recommended to check your compression after installation. Sea Level 1000' 2000' 3000' 4000' 5000' 18cc 197 178 171 170 165 145 19cc 183 167 160 158 152 137 20cc 169 156 149 146 140 129 21cc 156 145 138 134 128 121 stock 130 125 118 112 106 100 http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

you cant fix a mechanical problem by adding fuel. if youre rings are getting snagged in the exhaust port thats NOT a function of the jetting. thats more like a porting or cylinder boring issue. were all of the ports correctly chamfered the last time it was ported or bored out? who did the port job and cylinder boring?

i think the problem might be that youre running drag pipes with unported cylinders.

even with headwork you cant just put a 4mm in, the port timings you be fucked up. remember, change the stroke change the port timings.

i just beat #4 a few hours ago. it was alright. the whole story mode is about the team owners stealing money and spiking fuel with additives which clog up competitors carburettors so they lose the races. story mode was really weak, but what do you expect from an "Everyone" rated game. on fury 4, the banshee has a 4 stroke sound which is really gay, but you wont be using the banshee much anyways. its just too slow. what also sucks is some of the sponsors that give you things , some of them you have to race against to win things and if you win, some only give you a fuckin sticker for youre plastics. thats really weak. maier offer me a sticker and i turned them down. stunting is harder in #4, you cant go back on a wheelie very far or else you fall off. same with stoppies. on 2 and 3 you could go back almost to the grab bar. does anyone have cheat codes? hell id love to run the vehicles which i couldnt afford to.

look for yamaha 1988 fzr 1000 fibers part number 4H7-16321-02-00. mrcycles.com sells em for under $9 each.

remove the radiator cap and warm it up. give the throttle a couple zings and watch for bubbles comming up through the radiator neck. as it idles and gets up to temp there should not be any bubbles, not even small ones that are hard to see. (watch very carefully with a flashlight.). does the engine seem to "use" coolant, even at a small level? next check the compression. when i had a bad head gasket i lost about an ounce or 2 of coolant every day. my motor awalys seemed to run hot. other than that it ran great. you would of never guessed it has a headgasket leak except for the odd symptoms.

hows the turbo banshee comming along?

im trying to learn stunting on my banshee. i was catwalking it with 1 foot on the grab bar and i went back way too far. normally this isnt a big deal and i can tap the rear brake to bring the front end down a bit. except this time the grab bar dug into the sand and somehow knocked my foot out. so im still holding onto the handlebars just getting dragged along with no way to pull myself up much less stop the bike. i run into a tree and bend one of my a arms up. if i had one of those tether kill switches i could have just let go and the bike would of quit on its own. so i just ordered a tether from rocky mountain atv along with some other crap. i need to find a used a arm somwhere now.

clutch job is real easy. no special tools are required except one of those screwdrivers you hit with a hammer and it turns the screw. you need one for the case screws. while you are in there grab some slightly stiffer clutch springs. rocky mountain atv sells tusk springs for under $10. also a good idea to install a pancake bearing. save you alot of hassle down the road. put fzr fibers on as already mentioned and you should be good to go. if you have problems just post up and someone will help you.

on my banshee i unplugged the parking brake wire and wrapped electrical tape over the plug. get a parking brake cover from rocky mountain atv. its like $5 or something for one made by tusk.

ive tried various oils from botique uni/k&n oiuls to atf and motor oil. the best thing i have found is bar and chain oil for a chainsaw. its a sticky tacky oil that clings really well. seems to work as good as anything else, and its many times cheaper than buying a little bottle of real filter oil.

sounds like you need cheetah cylinders with powervalves. or build an rz350 powervalve top end and have the cylinders ported and head worked on.

youre engine shouldnt even be up to operating temp after only a few minutes. id bet youve got a bad headgasket or oring. my banshee saw kiddy duty this weekend, me putting around with little 4-8 year olds on the seat in front of me in 1st through 2rd gear at low rpm's. such a low speed is a real channelge for the cooling system. none the less after 20 minutes my infrared tempature gun showed only a 190 degree temp off the top of the cylinder head. it was just up to operating temp after 20 mins. if i run it around hard in 1st and 2nd it still would take 10 mins to get up to 190 so based on my temps and run time compared to yours i would say you definidly have a head sealing issue.

playstations as well as nearly any computer equipment have metal steet inside to shield it from radio waves. i have a chainsaw and i cant even cut through 1 nail in a piece of wood. how can that chainsaw cut through a shielded playstation so quickly? there would have been sparks comming off the chain and he wouldnt have made it 2 inches without the chain going dull. that was just an empty box. a box they could have made money on by selling on ebay. (yes people buy the empty boxes)

unless he sucks at launching and flips it over, you gonna lose big time.

in all honesty the timing key is only there to hold the flywheel from spinning while the bolt is being tightend. once its tight the tapre of the crank is what holds the flywheel in place. if you look at those racing briggs and stratton gocarts people have, alot of those guys dont run flywheel keys at all because they need to change the timing by having the flywheel in a different location and somtimes a magneto relocator isnt allowed. not only that, but most flywheel keys are made of a soft metal and designed to break incase you lock a motor up so the crank dont twist or break. flywheel is a heavy device and can do some damage if it tries to decelerate too quickly. with all that said, i chose to slot the stock timing plate instead of buying a new plate or key. all ya need is a drill press, hand grinder, a rat tail file and some paitence.

ijust thought it would be more work to put the 700 in than it would be to port and pipe the 250. if i remember correctly, the 250 has about 25hp stock. put some port work into it, a good pipe,maybe a carb and you could see over 50hp. the odyssey also has a variable belt and pulley system like a sled right? im SURE you could get a high stall pulley system, and then you would aways have power right when you need it.

i once owned a street bike with the odyssey 250 motor. i would recomend keeping that motor. just buy some upgrade parts for it. you can get some nice pipes for that motor. atleast i did for my street bike. have someone port it and work on the cylinder head as well.

well then its a good thing our banshees all have aluminum wheels. actually, slime wont even make a steel wheel rust. only the aerosol type "fix a flat" ones will rust a wheel.