csrmel

yamaha recomends 25:1 if youre using a good oil, and 20:1 for a cheapie oil. with that said, i dont know anyone besides myself that actually runs 25:1. seems like everyone runs 32:1 and up, but i figure its best to play it safe and run a bit rich on the oil. nobody ever blew an engine because they listened to the factory 's recomendation on oil. on the other hand im sure theres been more than a few who burned their engines up running without enough oil.

now would be in ideal time to pull the carbs off and tear them apart, clean em up real good, write down youre jetting info and put them back together. you need the jetting info so you can have a baseline to start with. it could be something as simple as a tweek on the pilot jet, or as complex as a jetting change (isnt very complex actually). if you get the idle jet dialed in right, you can start that shit on 1st kick every time. my banshee can sit for months at a time and it will start on the first kick 90% of the time, and if it doesnt start on first kick it will start on second 100% of the time.

clean youre bbq up internally to get rid of the grease so it wont smoke. bring that in the garage and turn it on. its cheaper than buying a heater. i got a propane space heater for free, i found it at the curb, someone was throwing it away. i have it in the house and i ran a copper propant tank line from the heater through the wall and outside to a bbq 20lb tank. it works pretty damn good but a regular bbq grille would probably work just as good.

i remember when she was banned by lee, and then unbanned. i hate to see anyone get banned, but i am glad that she appears to have left on her own accord. i think bhq has been better off without her. there are less guys trying to flex their nuts and show off now that she appears to be gone. less drama round this parts too, buckarow.

everyones got to go sometime. i dont see why celebritys get so much coverage. they dont actually do anything meaningfull for the world. ersonally i dont think peoples deaths should even be covered. maybe just a single sentence such as "anna nicole smith dies today at age 39, in other news a monkey has learned how to smoke cigarettes at a zoo in france". we put celebritys on too high of a pedistal. their just actors. we should put those in armed forces on a petistal, or fire fighters. not some fuckin actors.

unless you sone one monster motor, youll be fine with what you got.

before i answer the question, you have to tell us what kind of riding you do, and how agressive of a rider you are. do you want more top end power, midrange, low end, or all of the abive? more mx, sand, drag racing? etc etc...

well i have a tv in the living room, 1 in each of the 4 bedrooms, and 1 in my office. so i need to have 6 tv's hooked up to cable or satellite. im just pissed about the whole situation i guess.

yeah check with fast. ive never used their carb sync tool but ive heard nothing but good reviwes of it.

what the cable company is doing here is raising the rate, and moving all the good channels over to the digital side so you cant watch them with a normal cable package. they basically forcing me to either buy a digital advantage pack and rent a cable box, or stock with normal cable and not have anything good to watch. my cable bill for digital cable is like 85 a month. dish says they will give me all of my current programming plus extras for 62 a month, but that is only for 4 tv's, and i have 6. the 2 extra will cost $160 each for the satellite recievers plus an extra 10a month per room. man im sort of screwed any way i look at it. im seriously thinking of giving up on tv all together. theres too many commercials anyways, and a tivo costs too much to get rid of commercials.

i do probably 90% of my riding in sand, so im thinking about buying a set of rib or mohawk sand tyres for the front. im wondering about the 10% non sand riding i do. would ribs or mohawk hold up ok in dirt and crushed shell/gravel? or would they get damaged too quickly? i just dont want to buy a second set of wheels and tyres and have to swap them. id like to run 1 set of front tyres for everything. i know for the rears im going to have to swap them out when im not riding sand, but would the fronts hold up ok?

i also use only wd40. ive had my banshee for a year now and ive only had to adjust the chain twice!

the waterpump seal could be one possibility, there is also an o-ring on the water pump outlet which is in the side cover. if that o-ring is leaking you can get water in the case. if there IS water in the case, there would have to be alot of it for it to get sucked up into a leaking crank seal. sence water doesnt mix well with oil, it generally sits in the bottom of the case unless theres enough that some gears can touch it and splash it around. but that would have to be alot.

hell yeah i recomend it for a stock banshee. stock banshees should of came from the factory with 22-21cc domes (depend on elevation) and a stator plate thats 4 degrees advanced. you machinist guy that can shave on youre lunch break, do youre head and also slot youre stator plate so you can advance the ignition timing by 4 degrees. man i tell you i did both mods and i think the timing advance was a bigger kick in the pants than the high compression head or aftermarket air filters. best part is you still get to run premium fuel.

around october of last year i was going to have my cylinders ported, so i found rb i was kind of skeptical because of his cheap prices. i ended up doing alot of online research about this guy to see how people likes his work and see if maybe he just did a fluff and buff bullshit job. to date i have never heard a single complaint about his buisness! and that to me speaks volumes. all i got after reading lots of people talk about him on varous forums was nothing but positives. everyone seems to be impressed with his porting, and ESPICALLY impressed with the rediculous prices he charges. how can porting be so cheap? he must have porting down to a very quick science. ultimately i decided against getting my cylinders ported. i cant justify tearing open a prefectly good running motor with factory new compression just to gain some power. i decided to wait untill i actually need a rebuild, then ill send my cylinders out to rb for some port work. you know what else, for $50 hell port youre cases. im going to get that done too when it finally comes time to do a rebuild.

you dont need a relay. the light switch should handle the current provided you arnt running some huge fan off a big block. if you think about it, the banshee headlights dont have a relay, they run right off the headlight switch. if you can sacrifice youre highbeand, or low beams, use one or the other as the "on" for the radiator fan. dont forget you need a full wave bridge diode to convert a/c to d/c. the banshee had a pure a/c electrical system. a/c wont work on radiator fans. most of the bridge diodes are simple to wire up. mine has 2 wires going into it (from the stator) and 2 wires comming out (goes to the fans) it takes a/c in and d/c out. this is a picture of the 1 i use. if you get something like i have you need to mount it on a heatsink. i used a heatsink off a computer processor. nice cheap and lightweight aluminum. the whole setup only weighs about 3 ounces. if you dont use a heatsink you rurn out the diode bridge. one of these days im going to get around to making a couple of how to guides with pictures for the banshee electrical system. 1. how to make youre headlights 20% brighter for less than $10. 2. how to wire up a cooling fan for under $10 3. understanding TORS and how to properly care for it. i just get lazy about it and keep putting things off.

i know what you mean. those dual cores look tempting, but youre smart to hold off. the current crop of dual core tech is too power hungry. have you seen the power supply recomendations for one of those and a hot graphics card? amd has a tech sheet where you plug in various wattage requirements for youre components and it gives you power supply wattage recomendation. damn you know they make 1000w atx power supply's now? another factor to consider when upgrading is the cost of electricity. i read on one of those computer geek sites a guy calculated that he was going to pay another $10 a month (on top of what he pays now) in electricity just to run a new dual core system with all the bells and whistles. i think im going to hold off untill the dual cores and possibly quad cores come down in cost and electricity usage. if you want vista send me a pm with youre mailing address. i got ya covered

i wish they would let me install it myself. but my house is already wired for cable tv. what needs to be done to make it satellite ready?

daogejr, for my everyday needs i think my current box is good enough, later on ill pass it off to my dad and build a new system. i overclock too, my 2.2ghz axp is running on a 280fsb. (suppose to be 266) im in the "biz" as well. im a microsoft certified systems engineer for windows 2000 and xp. ive got some other lesser certs like a+ repair but those are only worth a brief mention. maybe its been more than 2 years sence i built this computer, but when i built this computer i bought ALL top of the line stuff. thats how i do it. i buy top of the line and then i dont touch a thing untill my computer is once again too slow. my 2.2ghz cpu had just been released to the retail market. half a gig ofcrucial ddr2400 was atleast $175 back then. my last computer had a k6-3 cpu at 500mhz. 2 120gb 7200 rpm drives in raid 0 just like you mentioned. only problem is i dont do hd intensive things. i dont edit video. i do convert and burn dvdr's but thats cpu intensive, not hd. i needed to upgrade basck then but the raid didnt seem to do a thing for me, so i ditched it and put my money into the cpu and memory, kept one of the drives and sold the other on ebay for around $100. my computer before that was a pentium 133mhz, man it cost me over a grand to build it, and it annoys me to think that computer today is worth about $10 on ebay. hahaha. i think im going to hold off on vista. it would cost me a couple hundred bucks in video card and ram to be up to snuff for the aero interface. honestly my current xp box does everything i need at a speed that is plenty fast. maybe in a few years when my current box is starting to annoy me, ill pass it off to my dad and build a new system. but for now my current box does everyhting i need. i cant justify upgrading just so i can run the areo interface. aero is nice, but not for an extra $350.

im thinking about switching from cable tv to the dish network. they include up to 4 recievers for free but i need 6. the extra 2 cost $160 each! im wondering if i can just buy a reciever from ebay for $50 and use that instead of buying the additional recievers from dish?

it depends on how hard you are on the engine. you can twist a stock crank with an oem head if you try stupid shit like 3rd gear clutch drops on asphalt. then again you could probably get by with 20 or 19cc domes on dirt if you are easy on it. so it "depends".

locking nuts are not nessassary on a stock axle. just take youre stock axle and adjust the nuts to factory spec, tighten down the second one against the first and wrap ELECTRICAL tape around the 2 nuts and then a good inch of the axle. the electrical tape keeps them from vibrating and losening up. when i got my banshee new the stock axle nuts loosen up on me within a week. i did the electrical tape trick and its been almost a year now and they are still set properly.

maybe you guys with poor fitting bumpers and nerfs have slightly tweeked frames. all of the a/c stuff ive ever used fit good, but then again all my quads were bought new and never wrecked or absed so i know for sure the frames are straight.

if you need to measure the dome size cut a piece of plexi to fit on the cylinder head. apply a light coating of grease to the head and snug the plexi down with a few bolts. then fill the dome up using a medical syringe filled with fluid, oil works good for this. most syringe have the cc's labeled on the outside, so keep filling untill the cylinder is full right up to the spark plug threads. keep track of how much fluid you used, this will be youre head cc's. this is a quick, cheap and dirty way to get the cc's. its pressy accurite though.

only 150 hours? shit alot of people would be on their 2nd or third rebuild by the time it hit 150 hours. check the compression first, thats easiest. next i would pull the reeds and check those. finally if the compression and reeds looked good, id buy a leakdown tester and test the bottom end for a crank seal leak.