csrmel

unless 500 people log in in the next 3 minutes i dont see this happening. maybe when the 600 users was reached it was a bot hitting the page over and over for a while.

you probably have 6 heavy duty springs installed. the clutch its self (plates discs) shouldnt really effect the pull of the clutch levre. buy a set of stockers. then try 3 stock 3 hd, if its still too stiff try all 6 stock. at this time it would probably be a good idea to pickup a pancake bearing. sence youre in there anyways and all.... dont forget to ajust the clutch nut and lign up the 2 arrows on the output shaft.

ditch the single carb on ebay for a few hundred. use that money to get the head shaved or buy a cool head. also pickup a used set of stock carbs for the $100 you originally wanted to spend.

i just got vista myself. the only problem is my computer doesnt meet the minimum specs for the aero and flip3d so i cant have "sideways windows" as one person said. in order to have aero gui you need 1ghz processor, 1gb of ram and a direct x 10 video card. well fuck my computer reads like this. 2.2ghz athlon xp cpu, 640mb crucial pc2100 ram radeon 8500 64mb dual display video card seperate dvd and dvdrw 2 proview 19inch w i d e s c r e e n LCD displays other unimportant stuff so i dont meet the minimum requirements. i guess i have to upgrade. man my shit was top of the line like 2 years ago. hahaha.

you have to lose the fear of falling over backwards. this is the most important thing. first thing you could do is with the engine off, lift the front end up with youre hands and set the banshee on its grab bar. then climb on and notice how you can actually sit and control the bike in that position.. now go out and purposely wheelie too high and lightly tap the grab bar. dont slam down hard on the grab bar because then youre going to break the frame and also fall off from the impact. just get the front end up quick enough to make the grab bar gently scrape the ground. as soon as you feel it touch, tap the brake real easy and bring the front end down. practice this touch and go style untill you get good at it. once you lose youre fear of going over too far than the wheelie becomes a piece of cake. next go for a real wheelie using the gas and brake. this is how i tought myself, and my dad, and my nephiew to wheelie.

heres a quote right off toomeys website concerning t5's and their 2:1 filter kit. seems simple enough to me. i dont see why you would recomend to him to run the bike so rich when toomey has done all of the jetting work for that kit and figured out the right jetting.

with the stock dunlops i find that 3.5 in the front and 6 in the rear works good. seems like the stock dunlops like alot of pressure in the rear. more pressure SEEMs to equal more traction.

na. toomey recomends 280's for their 2:1 kit. youll be fine. look on toomeys website about the jetting.

if youre still runnin the box 280's will be fine. if youre still running with the stock filter then 280 will be a bit rich even. im in florida and look in my signature for my mods and jetting.

mythbusters tried acetone in some fuel economy test and proved it to be bogus. jbooker82, acetone only attacks certain types of plastics, not all of them. i am reasonable sure the banshee gas tank and the rest of the plastic and rubber parts in the fuel system would be OK. but hey you still wont find me running acetone in my fuel.

i dont think the stock studs are long enough to use with a cool head.

any sort of buddy or search companion programs suck. ones that change youre settings suck even more. i cant tell you how many computers ive seen with 4 or more toolbars on the page, theres so many toolbars that there isnt enough room for actual websites to show up without excessive scrolling. i have a twin monitor computer display with dual wide screen 1440x900 minotors. even this isnt enough real estate for web surfing on modern websites. id hate to be on a single 17 or 19 inch monitor with those stupid search toolbars everywhere.

i like youre setup. i did basically the same with mine. i put a multi element led bulb setup in the stock housing. so it looks stock when the power is off but if i turn the lights on or press the brake petal the led's light up inside the stock lens. leds are great because they take so little power to run.

i am normally not in favour of closing any threads. the planet sand thread was there for people to voice their concerns about the new pay system. once everyone got the option to have their money refunded the planet sand thread basically served no point except for letting members trash talk others. look the bottom line is they did what was right and made planet sand free again. alot of people myself included were pissed but we dont need to be pissed anymore. we dont really need to discuss it anymore either, the war is won, its over. its free now so lets just let it go and get on with life.

i do all my own work thank you very much. keeping the carbs in sync has alot to do with tors because tors measures the slides hight and compares it to the other side. thats how it knows if 1 slide sticks open. (well thats 1 of the ways). if the 2 slides are not close enough in hight at all times it will cut the ignition. thats why i say to keep youre carbs synced. if they go out of sync tors will let you know about it. thats probably what most people have problems with. most people probably dont own a sync tool or dont give a damn. you know whats under the gas tank? some wires and a black box. thats not alot of shit man. the tors boxes on the carbs are not that hard to disconnect and they are not even under the tank. i dont see whats the big deal about 2 wires comming off each carb that have a plug in connector. i know alot of people remove it, but most people dont even know what tors is so that doesnt make sence. i realise that anyone is free to do what they want with the tors, but i feel that both sides of the story should be told.

if you put a stroker in with a spacer plate and no porting then it does you little good because it messes with youre port timings in a bad way. on one hand you have a stroker crank, thats good. but shoddy port timings are a very harsh downside to that because the crank alters the port timings and the spacer plate only half assed fixes those timings. its sort of a bandaid way do get it done. (atleast with a 4mm crank) dont worry about the reeds and shit for now. just pull the cylinders off and have them ported to match the crank and also youre pipes. get it back together and running with a top end gasket kit. with that alone you will beat the snot out of any 400ex and most other quads out there.

a 2 stroke doesnt NEED expansion chamber to run. it doesnt actually need any sort of an exhaust. you can unbolt the expansion chambers and mufflers from a banshee and it will start and run. but you will be way down on youre power, and with no exhaust it will be loud as hell. and shoot blue/orange flames out the exhaust ports. (ask me how i know LoL) the expansion chamber lets the engine consume more air and fuel than it normally could by its self. i like to think of it as a supercharger. in any case, if you drop the pipes from a 2 stroke you drop its power output usually atleast 50%, on the banshee its probably more like 70% but honestly the precentage depends on the pipe, the motors port timings, etc.

ive used rotella, it works. right now im using castrol atf. it also works. honestly i cant tell any difference between atf, motor oil, gear oil, and real 2 stroke gearbox oil.

i heard something about cashing their forum via some kind of software to redistribute the hidden sections via a zip file. anyone know something about this?

i dont see why everyone removes tors. its a good system as long as you keep the carbs synced. it only weighs about 1 pound in parts. it doesnt add much complexity to the wiring. jetting is just as easy with or without tors. the carbs can be tilted sideways in frame so the bowls can be removed for jet changes wihtout even disconnecting the tors. if 1 or more of youre throttles ever stick open, even just a little bit, tors will cut the ignition so you wont lean out one side and blow a piston. it will also save youre ass from running into a tree if the throttle sticks open. and sence banshees are sort of known for finicky throttle systems, it makes good sence to keep tors connected. the other point i would like to make, if tors ever DOES act up on you, (like a microswitch on the ebrake sticking for example) its just a little connector on the black box to disable it temporarely untill you can fix the problem. no tools needed. ive seen a few examples on this board of people without tors who have had throttle sticking problems and gotten into accidents. had they kept their tors functioning properly this wouldnt of happened.

on an average banshee would dial a jet even be worth it? i mean once you get the jetting dialed in you shouldnt really have to mess with it except for summer/winter right?

yah i can back it up thats what ive been trying to say i guess.

i see no problem with paying for information. i am a paid member of macdizzy.com i am a paid member of bansheehq.com i am a paid member of other non banshee related websites as well. what i do see a problem with, is the abnormally high cost of planetsand's membership. on most sites its $10-$15 a year. planet sand wants what like $60 a year? fuck that, for $60 i can join 4 or 5 other places and get 5 times the ammount of info. also planet sand is clicky with their little online version of street gangs. their mods are a bit too tough on non sponsors and let sponsors get away with too much. i guess there is too many things wrong with ps in my view for it to be worth $60 a year. dont need the bs. fuck planetsand. ill stick to macdizzy and bansheehq

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...1821&rd=1,1

thats not true. im telling you my bike will run normally with the key wires unplugged. i went through this when i installed my tethered kill switch. i thought i could just cut and splice it in place of the key. when i did that the banshee would only run with the tether REMOVED. if i plugged the tether in the engine would die. under normal conditions you would think removing the key would interrupt power going to the cdi or coil or some part of the ignition system. on the banshee i theorise that it is the opposite, and instead of interupting power, it instead interups the ground or some part of the ignition. but i have no proof. all i know is that my bike (which i bought new 9 months ago and no one has ever worked on it or even touched it besides me) only runs when the 2 key wires are not connected.