csrmel

i run castrol gp 2 stroke oil. its got a picture of an atv on the front and it costs $3 per quart from target. on the back it says suitable for 2 stroke dirtbikes, atv, chainsaw, etc. its rated JASO FB which means its good enough for a banshee, it smokes a bit more than an expensive oil but to tell you the truth i never fouled a plug on my banshee in the year and a half i have owned it. i have chopped a few plugs though. for the trans i run type f atf. walmart has the cheapest type f atf. about $2.50 a quart. i change the atf about every time i clean the air filters, which means every maybe 20-25 gallons of gas. had the bike a year and a half still on the original clutch with no problems with any part of the transmission. shifting action is as good as it gets for having a shitty stock shift star.

banshee carbs have pilot jets for low throttle openings. its the opposite of a typical adjustable idle jet on a car or weedwacker. on a typical idle jet weedwacker card, clockwise leans it out and couter richens it. on a banshee, as well as most dirtbikes and stuff, clockwise richens the idle, counter leans it out. the more you turn the screw out the better it runs is because its leaning out. probably bogging from being so lean. try run it at 1.5 turns out and see what happens to the bog. whats youre needles set at? something is wrong because you shouldnt be fouling out with those jets and pipes.

i forgot to add that i already have a set of rigid struts for drag racing. i also remove the front bumper, grab bar, headlights and metal heel guards when i go dragging to lighten the load. those things only take a few minutes to remove or put back on anyways.

i cant do the front brakes or the aluminum axle as i still use this banshee for trails. same goes for the cpi or shearer pipes. its just that id like to do some extra stuff to make it faster for drag racing that wouldnt fuck up its ability to run on trails. i was thinking the rules allow the carbs to be bored. maybe this would be a good mod? i believe that everything i have done do far has benefitted drag racing and trail riding with no drawbacks. id like to try and keep it that way. id also like to grab some paddles as 98% of the trails i run are infact sand pathways through the woods. its perfect paddle territory, but for now my stock dunlops work decent enough. besides that im not ported or anything. would paddles even help on the 300 foot drag track? look at the roost those stock dunlops throw in my sig picture. thats pretty decent for a non paddle tyre no? guys i realise that having a dual purpose banshee means i will NEVER be as fast as a strictly drag banshee, and ill never be as smooth on the trails as a strictly mx banshee, but i cant afford 2 banshees so i just need to try and make 1 do both things as good as can be done and live with the compramise.

so if you look at my signature you can see my mods. as you know the stock banshee class doesnt allow too much to be done. by the way i AM on a diet and lost 30lbs already. i figure the weight loss off my ass is probably the best mod i can do, its free too but whats next for my banshee? im looking for the "next" thing to do that gives me bang for the buck. 1. All atv

i used an umbrella pole from a large patio umbrella.. drilled some holes in each end after i cut it to the right length. it works fine. why use bushings? its not as if its a pivot point. its RIGID.

i know people who have driven old beater 60's bugs into mexico and came out a few days later in a brand new one of the same colour with the same vun. they STILL make the old style bugs in mexico.

check out gizooglizzle its a good way ta waste a few. http://sites.gizoogle.com/index2.php?url=h...owtopic%3D75957

i wouldnt know how stupid gas station operators are, i never go in the places. i awalys use a credit or debit card at the pump. its way safer than paying with cash. the last time i actually used cashwas at the last cr motorsports drag race, i had to pay $30 to drag race. what was that a month ago?

toyota all the way! toyota is the reason i watch nascar. i even got some custom toyota t shirt printed up for the pepsi 400 ill be going to this summer. the shirt is red and has a toyota nascar and the japanese rising sun in the background. that should piss off quite a few rednecks!

it kind of sounds like a publicity thing and not a real hard core ride none the less ill be there!

did you ship the item with tracking number and did you ship it within 10 days of getting paid? also they buyer was a verified? if so CALL paypal and tell them these 2 things and remind them that you sucessfully fulfilled every obligation of the seller protection policy. you might have a chance then. but lately it seems paypal is no longer interested in protecting the seller. i sold a digicam to someone and shipped it out 1 day after getting payment. 3 weeks later the buyer filed a chargback and to make a long story short, even though i had tracking number paypal still decide against me, they refund the buyer, plus they hit me with a $20 chargeback fee, plus i still got to pay my fucking ebay insertion fees and final value fees, plus im out the cost of shipping, AND the cost of the camera. all in all i lost about $90 and the buyer kept the camera. i was like fuck that shit and i called paypal and told them im not going to pay and then i swore at them a little bit and hung up. i called my bank and canceled my CC and got a new number. i also put a hold on my bank account so they cant get my money through my checking account. paypal emailed me saying they didnt appreciate me disallowing them accesss to my accounts, so i email them back basically swearing them off and i also mentioned that i put their domain name in my junk mail filter so i wont get further emails from them. sence i got a new cell phone number a year or so ago i never bothered to update paypal (or ebay) with my number, so they have no way of contacting me besides email or perhaps snail mail? and email wont work now that they are on my junk mail filter. the thing i have read online is that paypal WANTS to decide in favour of the buyer because they get a better interest rate from banks and CC companys if they keep the ammount of chargebacks in favour of the buyer. this makes the Cc company look good to the buyer so they keep using it and fucks the seller because no matter who is at fault, the seller is very likely to lose. ill probably end up getting a REAL merchant account with card services so i can process credit cards again through ebay, but for now i only take checks and money orders and i suppose local pickups. try paypalsucks.com to read about the bullshit others have gone through.

im using a modquad impeller. the only thing i dont like about impellers (any brand) is how they dont fit so well into the bearing. i can spin my impeller by hand and the bearing wont turn. the impeller spins inside the inner bearing race. ive heard this is normal, but if it was truely normal why is there even a bearing there in the first place if it doesnt move.

http://www.thechurchofgoogle.org/ makes sence to me.

if you have a 200w stator and 200W in lights then youre regulator is almost not even being used. the regulator only shunts EXCESS power to ground. if you have a 200w stator and 25w of lights, then 175W is being shunted to ground which is too much for the stock regulator. also the stock regulator (atleast on my 06) has a cutoff of 9 volts. why this is? i have no idea, but if i disconnect the regulator i can zing the throttle and get some 60-70 volts out of it. enough to dimly light a household lightbulb. banshee headlights are made to run at 12-14.4v. running them at 9v with the stock regulator means reduced light output.

dealers should be called rapeists and not dealers. theres nothing to do with a "deal" when going to a dealer.

not to be a dick, but thats not true. the lighting is purely a/c. if you start the bike up and idle it, you can disconnect the voltage regulator and nothing happens at all (as long as you dont zing the throttle). in order for a bridge rectifier to work, it needs to have atleast 2 inputs and 2 outputs. (well 3 phase has more but thats another story). last time i messed with my banshee the regulator has only 1 input. ive never seen a stock banshee regulator with more than 1 input. why you think those ricky stator rectifiers have like 4 wires going into and out of them? because they are bridge rectifiers using ziodes arranged in a diamond that blocks power some of the time and lets it pass other times to make dirty dc power. thats basically a normal rectifier just like that. 2 inputs, 2 outputs. now our stock banshee voltage regulator has only 1 input, therefore it can only be a voltage regulator ( works by shunting excess power to the ground as you said).

the crossover tube is a good idea to leave on. the crossovertube serves to even out differences in jetting between the left and right cylinders, as well as differences in airflow. think about parely blocked jets or carbs that are poorly synced at idle as well as poorly synced carbs at half throttle and even full throttle. i have seen a stupid banshee owner who has his carbs so out of sync that at full throttle 1 carb was all the way open and 1 was 75% open. (stupid people who dont buy carb sync tools REALLY need the crossover tube) actually everyone should have a carb sync tool even with a crossover tube but it is a mystery to me who almost no one has one. a carb sync tool is one of those mUST halves for every banshee owner no matter what brand of carbs you run. i even see alot of drag racers who have a crossover tube, i dont know of any reason NOT to have one. its not like its going to kill airflow, i see it as a device that can only do good. unless someone comes up with a real ultimate idea of why its bad and explains why even thought they believe its bad, why did yamaha make every banshee have one?

the lighting circuit on the banshee has 2 power wires. (neutral and power). the voltage regulator has 2 wires on it. 1 wire goes to a ground. the second wire plugs directly into the power wire that comes out of the stator. the 2 power wires (neutral and power because its alternating current) go directly to the headlights via the headlight switch. you can UNPLUG the voltage regulator (turn off you headlights first) and start the bike, it will run normally. you can unplug the 2 power wires for the lighting that come out of the stator and the bike will still start and run normally. the lighting circuit and voltage regulator are completely independant from the ignition. the ONLY way they could ever have ANYTHING to do with ignition is if some wires insulation somehow got stripped off and you had some short circuiting. actually, what i have said applies to my 2006 banshee. other years, espically the real old years, may be different. maybe not. i have no expierence with older banshees.

that shit is STAMPED down into the metal. it would take like 10 minutes of sanding with a DA sander and you would have to leave it in the spot of the vin for 10 minutes before you sanded it down that far, and by that time the frame would be weak in that area.

im one of those guys that if im out just cruising around on the banshee ive been known to wear shorts and flipflops. my t5's awalys gave me a hassle with burns (even when i wear pants and boots) so one day after feeling the pain of 1 praticular burn that kept getting burned over and over again i went and bought some moose pipe armour. it somes in a semi circular tube that you cut and form to youre pipes for a custom fit. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...I7ADBS%26sa%3DN thats a long link, if it doesnt work for you go to google and search for "moose pipe armor". the fitting is not too bad, it took me about 30 minutes per side. you have to order 2 pipe armours because they are actually designed for a 2 stroke single cylinder dirtbike. the armour works really good. after a hard romp on the banshee i can hold the pipe armour with my hand for about 8 seconds before it start to hurt. this is PLENTY of time to move youre leg when you feeling it start to get hot. pipe armour is worth every penny. oh and compared to exhaust wrap. pipe armour cleans off with a towel. it doesnt get dirty and stained like exhaust wrap. it doesnt hold moisture like wrap either. most people who have seen my pipe armour in person really like the looks as well. it looks kind of like a backbone or something.

the steering stem is actually held in place by a plastic bushing. i believe that in the event of a crash the plastic bushing is designed to break absorbing the impact of the handlebars hitting the ground. with that said, its obviously not awalys effective at preventing further damage as ive seen banshees with all different kinds of bars including oem with bent stems. i personally run the stock handlebars with a plus 2 inch steering stem. this provides a nice stable platform for standing up while riding hard, plus when sitting and cruising, it is more relaxed (think mini ape hangers). this reduces my fatigue greatly. handlebar taper and hight is a matter of personal preference. handlebar thickness is as well. ive seen guys who ride really hard and beat on their bikes bend some of the thin aluminum bars with nothing more then their muscles. so its sort of a matter of who you are and how you ride. obviously lightweight bars are better in all conditions as far as handling goes, but if they are too thin and bend or break then they are useless for youre riding style and any other bar becomes instantly better (even stock) most people would choose a happy medium, not thin super ultralight bars, but not heavy steel bars like oem. a medium would be thin steel bars or thick aluminum bars.

yeehaw!

ehehe

just cut a slot into the plastic with a hacksaw so you can remove the cover without pulling off the footpeg and shifter.