biggun6ss

You can probably get a better answer at www.yfzcentral.com. It's just like bansheehq but for four strokes.

Chill out. Get the T5's and you will be very happy. The T5's will work great with your bolt on mods and porting.

Try some 340's for the mains, clip on the 4th position, and 30 pilots. Take it out for a ride and look at your plugs. The jetting fact page just gives a good starting point on where you should be, then it is up to you to fine tune your machine.

Assuming the riders ride the same and the bikes are all stock, the 450 is gona win. After that it is who has the most money.

Depends on what gearing you are running. If you are both running stock gearing you should take him.

No it won't make that much hp with just pipes.

I got a blue anodized head with 20cc domes for 250.

Compression will depend on your elevation but 100psi does sound low. If the cylinder walls look good you could just get a new set of rings and hone out the cylinders. But if the pistons are stock I would get me a new set. If you are missing the choke tube that might be your problem. You can just get some more from a auto parts store for really cheap and see what happens.

You can use the fatties they just wont make as much power as the T5 or cpi pipes. You will see a big difference in power though.

That all looks good but I don't think you will need that big of a pilot jet.

Don't know what it stands for. If you get small domes like 17cc it will up your compression and you might have to run race gas. I got the Noss head with some 20cc domes. At my elevation I am around 130 psi so I dont need race gas.

Yes but it won't keep it from freezing on a cold day. That is why it is called antifreeze.

I would say it will push 55-60.

I use 50/50 reagular antifreeze and have had no problems.

The reeds arent hard to check. Just pull them out and see what they look like.

Yes. They just screw in. Might want to get two of them so you can get the right length stud when you go get a new one.

SO you can't keep it running at all?

Just take off all the other nuts and pull the head off. Then use some vise grips or something and unscrew the stud that broke. Get a new on and put it back in. Put the head back on and go for a ride. I always just use a wratchet and socket to tighten the head bolts. After about an hr of riding I check them to see if they are loose but they are always tight and good to go.

If it is smoking it is fine. Mine smokes and I use the T6 pipes. Every banshee i see smokes. Look at your plugs and make sure your jetting is good.

Yes you will need the jet kit. Any time you change how much fuel or air get in and out of the motor you will have to rejet.

Get a Noss head. easy to install and very clean looking. While you have your head off better check ring clearence and see if there are any scratches in the cylinder walls. If you had debree floating around it is always good to check.

If you adjust the idle screws all the way down, no the slides won't bottom out. With it running get some carb cleaner and spray it around where the reeds and intakes are. If there is a difference in idle then you have an air leak which will make your bike idle high. Make sure your slides are opening and closing at the same time also.

If you don't get your slides in right it can make it idle high. If you put them in, make sure they are not in a bind, that will make it hard to adjust the slides. I did it to mine one time, the cable was in a bind and wouldn't let the slide go down far enough to bring the idle down. I took off the carb top and spun the slide around one full turn, put it back in, and it moved up and down with no problem. You say you turned your pilot screws 2 turns out. Did you mean your air screws?

I bet you burn those up also. You could probably use the clutch kit from F.A.S.T. racing. But, you never know, it may last a while.

If I were you I would get jets from 250-350. That way you have every jet you will need for your stock carbs with bolt on mods. If you do any motor work like porting or using cubs, you will need a bigger carbs.