biggun6ss

The intake is a BOSS. I measured the bolt holes to be 2 3/8 apart center to center. Does this sound about right?

I currently have the billit intakes but the rubber section that connects to the carb is starting to crack. Is there anyone that sells just that piece or do you have to buy the whole billit piece?

I have a 2005 with 4mil longrod dune drag port. Currently I am running 8 paddle haulers but i seem to be spinning bad when i take off. Would a ten paddle help with the takeoff but not kill my top end? I am also using stock gearing, if I do go to the 10 paddle, should I change my gearing at all? Also with my setup, what cc is my motor (stock cylinders)? The reason i ask is because my friend has a yfz 450 with intake and high compression piston. I raced him a couple weeks ago but he stood no chance (he is new to riding so that was a major factor). Now he is getting cams and his head ported, I still don't think he will touch me, my passion motor runs too good, but i want to make sure I get out of the hole effeciantly.

Haven't been to the site in a long time, was reading through the post and saw alot fo talk about serval motors. What the hell is a serval motor?

Call your builder and get a full drag port and get some bigger carbs with some good filters.

What size jets are currently in the bike? Are you running stock carbs, and if so is the choke tube connected? Have you checked to see if you are getting good fire at your plugs? Is the timing correct?

I pulled the boot up so you can see what i am talking about. The end of that L adjuster that slides into the brass likes to come up when given throttle.

Yes I have those rubber boots but they do not fit very sung.

Maybe I can explain this better. My throttle cable connects to the thumb throttle assembly just fine. Its the other end that gives me problems. The cable runs from the thumb throttle then splits into two seperate cables, one for each carb. At the end of each cable there is an L shaped adjuster which is threaded on both ends. I used one end of the L for adjustment. The other end of the L sits inside the carb top adjuster but when I give the bike full throttle it wants to pull up out of the carb top adjuster. I haven't got to start the bike yet still waiting on a few parts. Everything is adjusted, the slides open fine. I am not having problems getting the cable into the slide its the adjuster around the cable that is moving causing the cable to open the slide. My worry is that if that L shaped adjuster moves too far up it may hold the slide open.

So no one has problems with the cable coming out of the brass. Seems to me if the cable moved to far it might hang wide open.

I am now using 35's due to a new port job done by passion. I have a new throttle cable but I am having problems where the throttle cable runs into the carb. At the end of the cable there is a L shaped tube threaded on both ends and the carb top comes with a brass tube which is threaded on one end and smooth on the other. Should I unscrew the brass adjuster out of the carb top and use the L or let one half of the L sit inside the brass? Only reason I ask is because with the L inside the brass, when I push the throttle the L wants to lift up. Is there a good way to keep the L in place?

Just had a 4 mill with a dune/drag port done on the banshee. Using 35 PWK so I have no need for the tors anymore. Have the bike torn down to nothing but frame and wirring harness. What all needs to be removed to get rid off all the tors junk. Is the little button inside the thumb throttle part of the tors and can that be unplugged?

That could be your problem. Try syncing your carbs and find out.

I would go with some 300's and see how it feels. I suggest sredish post because it tells you everything you need to know. You already have your baseline jetting so moving from there isn't hard. Unless its a massive temp change you won't go very far from your baseline jetting.

Read the sticky posted by sredish. No one can tell you the exact jets to run. Always have a variety of jets, never know when you might need to do a quick swap.

I would say get a Clymers, it will have all the pictures you need. You could also look up the stock carb on the internet and get some nice views.

Mind Blast White Knuckle All Out Eye Opening Supreme Hooked Up Polished You could add powersports/racing/motorsports to any of these. I like Mind Blast, I see a logo of a black faced green eyed guy with some crazy beems of light coming out his head. Could use the slogan "We are going to blow your mind". I suck at these kind of things though, I was never the creative type.

Kroil Oil.

Well, I would call some builders out there, tell them that you want to use your 33's and T-5's and see what they say is the best setup.

I pushed 47 hp with the mods in my sig. With some tuning and some cleaner filters I could have moved closer to 50.

I agree, Toomey or FMF are both nice pipes. You can always mill your head or you can get a Noss head with domes. I don't think a timimg plate would make a huge difference but gearing changes will. If you like tight trails or hill climbs changing your rear sprocket from stock (41) to maybe 43 would give you more low end. I don't know exactly what jets you would need. Elevation, temperature, and the pipes you decide on will be the only way to tell you what jets would be close.

I have no idea but I do know that if you are currently jetted for sea level and are moving to a higher elevation you need to jet down. A higher elevation requires less fuel due to having less air.

Jim recomended 100 octane gas. I don't know the current compression but I do know they were 21cc domes cut for the stroker.

Have a buddy who just got a 12 port from jim. He is running pods with some 35 pwks. I have never messed with one of these before and I have never jetted a 35 pwk. We live about 3200 feet and the temp is around 85 degrees. Any idea on a main and a needle size. 12 port stroker 35 pwks 21 cc cut domes pods v force 2 boss intake fmf fatties