biggun6ss

Let me refrase that question. What intakes match up the best using Vforce 3 reed cages and stock carbs?

I didn't even want to explain.

Why don't you buy a manual for your banshee and it will answer all of these questions. In fact, it will answer all the questions you have asked on here since you have become a member.

Which intakes match up the best with V Force 3's?

It has to be the octane and being lean. He hasn't advanced it any, still has stock timing plate. I have told him this before but he just keeps shelling out money on rebuilds.

What would cause a piston to have little pits on the top. A buddy of mine who isn't very smart has blown his top end about three times this year. He always silicons his intakes when they leak so I am thinkiong he is lean. He has 2004 LE with port work, cool head, fmf fatty pipes, and clamp ons. Everything else is stock.

I have T6's and they do really well with my setup. If you ever plan on getting it ported though, T5's would prolly be better. They say T6's are more for stock ports with bolt on mods and T5's respond better to port work. It may just be because T6's havent been out very long compaired to other pipes. If I were you I would get T5's, they are proven to give good power with or without port work.

I advanced mine +4. My banshee runs fine. I didn,t feel a difference though in power.

Guess ima have to lose some weight. Nah, prolly just port it when ever it decides to blow.

He has stock gearing compared to my 14-39 ( which should have more top end). He is probably around 160 lbs and im around 210. Would 50 lbs make that much difference?

Does it give you very much topend. I raced a 05 LE banshee with stock gearing, head mod, pods, T6 pipes, and its bored 40 over. I am geared 14-39 and he pulls away by about 3 quads on top. I figured with my gearing I would pull on him but didn't.

Well, chopped it up and it has a tan line all the way around the plug. It is a little lighter than what I think it needs to be so I will go one size bigger on the main and check again. I just ended up cutting all the threads off so I could see the entire ceramic part. Thanks for the help

So cut a window from the top of the threads all the way to the bottom of the threads? It doesn't look like the ceramic part goes down as far as the threads do, I may be wrong though.

To do a correct plug chop, where abouts do I chop my plug. Is there a certain distance from the top. Never done this before so I have no clue

On the stock timing plate there are two holes it bolts to right? On the timing plate I got, it had two holes in the same place, don't know if I can adjust that without driling out the holes. Or can it be adjusted some where else?

Take out your air filter and look downinto your carbs. When you push on the throttle you should see two things moving up, those are the slides. You need to adjust them so that they close and open at the same time. If they are closed all the way it might have trouble starting. If they are open to far it will idle high.

When you say adjust the gap what are you adjusting. I got a timming plate and everything bolted right on. I didnt see anything else to adjust.

we also need to know your elevation

What about the needle, should I mess with it any after these mods?

Everyones bike is going to run differently. The best way to tell if it is jetted right is look at your plugs. When I ask about my jetting i get about ten different opinions. So just keep tinkering with it until it feels right. Dont know about the silencers though. I would just save up some money and buy the complete set. Changing the pipes will make a lot of difference in how it runs.

Put on some clamp on K&N's and advanced the timing +4. Running 310 mains with stock pilot and needle. Do I need to move my needle up or down any or will it be ok? It starts easy and doesn't bog at iddle to 1/4 throttle so I think the pilot is ok.

The pads are good. It's only an 05 so it isn't old. It is just leaking brake fluid between the little connection and the tubing itself right behind the radiator. Either the gray silicon stuff that rubed off is causing this or the flare at the end of the tubing is ruffed up and letting it come through.

My front brakes went out on me. Looked at my res and it was getting really low. I noticed that the tubing behind the radiator was leaking. So I tightened it up but it was already pretty tight. Looked a little closer and the fluid isnt coming out of the threads. I took it off to check the flared end and it looked ok. Noticed that the tubing has some gray silicon stuff on it and part of it had be rubbed away. Could this be what is making it leak or is it something else?

I know it is shorter but the 15-41 combo didn't like to pull my paddles on top. So I went back to a 14 front with a 39 rear. This setup won't give me as much top end as a 15-41, but more top end than stock 14-41. I think

Tried that setup and didn't like it much. I'll just cut it up