2003LimitedBanshee

If you didn't make any modifications there wouldn't be any need to rejet. In fact, you would most likely hurt performance if it was done for no reason. In addition you could make the bike more prone to fouling plugs. When you swithched cables and rejetted did you make sure and reconnect the choke crossover tube? It runs between the left carb with the choke stat, and the right carb. If you forgot to reinstall this it will be very hard or near impossible to start. Sometimes it's the littlest things.

Not to try and take any business away from the reputable guys at FAST, but it could be that you need to adjust your clutch. If the clutch is not adjusted right, it may not be fully disengaging when you pull the lever in, therefore causing your lurch. However, a foot does sound like a BIG lurch, so you may in fact need a new clutch. Check it out and see if that appears to be the problem, then definitely give em a call.

All Banshees require premix. The more recent Blasters have oil injection. I would recommend a Synthetic Blend oil or a full synthetic such as Amsoil. I personally run Golden Spectro at 48:1. When you decide on an oil, look at that manufacturer's recommendations for the mix ratio. Invest in a Ratio Rite cup, that way you can buy a larger quantity jug of oil (usually a little cheaper) and not be guessing at what your oil mix ratio is. Remember, a common mistake new 2 strokers make is thinking that if a little oil is good, a little more must be better. All you need is just enough oil to maintain lubrication for the bores and bearings. Too much oil will often lead to higher engine temperatures.

Please, please, please... always check plugs when you pull them out of the box. I know they are supposed to be gapped about average out of the box, but I'll wager a lot that if you pull 10 plugs out of the box you'll get different gaps. For the 1/2 second it takes to check it, why not? Like ssanddemon said .028"-.032". Significantly higher compression will sometimes need a little less gap, so that the spark can still jump the gap, but with basic bolt-ons you should be fine in the stock range.

The bracket that holds the pickup is slotted ever so slightly allowing for the air gap to be adjusted. Ricky Stator says that it should be adjusted as tight as possible, but no tighter than .020". Mine was set at .032" from the factory so that is what I set mine back to. Just get a set of feeler gauges and you can set it in about 5 seconds. On the flywheel there will be two raised rectangular sections; just rotate one of these until it is lined up with the pickup and set accordingly. Stinger is right, this would not be normal, as he suggested my first suspicion would be the air gap, other possibilities would be less likely and more involved. Check there first.

Agreed 310-320 should be about right. Although I would say no bigger than 27.5 on the pilot in my opinion, but every bike runs a bit different.

My best guess is to try either the 2nd, but probably 3rd clip from the blunt end. After you have the main jet dialed in is when you should make needle adjustments based on how the bike runs through the midrange. As you increase the main jet, the midrange ("needle") circuit will be richened as well since the needle will fill less of the larger main jet. So after you have set the main, if it seems to rich, drop the needle a position by raising the clip, or vice versa if it seems lean.

TM Designworks makes this case saver TM Case Saver that works for 12-15 tooth setups. I have it on mine with a 13 tooth Renthal gear, and it doesn't appear to have enough space to end up with the situation you ran into, although luckily I haven't tested yet. I know you know it and I don't have to say it, but, you usually get what you pay for (on the chain/sprocket setup). There is a reason why good chains go for $100+.

To change your gearing for more bottom end acceleration (more mechanical advantage) you will want to go down on the front sprocket and/or up on the back. The general rule of thumb is that one tooth down in the front is generally comparable to 3 teeth up in the back. Because of this I would recommend going to a 13 tooth on the front first (stock is 14, although I've heard several claiming 15) see how you like it and then if you want more start going up on the back. You could also go down one more tooth to a 12 on the front, but keep in mind this is equivalent to a significant change in the back so it may be too much.

Keep in mind that most of those recommendations are for bikes with a complete set of aftermarket pipes and silencers, also usually with aftermarket filter setups also. Also, you should be running a Proflow adapter, preferrably with a K&N or similar filter with the airbox removed. The stock filter retainer uses the lid to keep the filter sealed to the front of the airbox. Plus, the stock filter setup does a pretty poor job of sealing even with the lid installed. If you ever ride in the sand with the stock setup, I can almost guarantee that you will find sand in the intake track with the stock box/filter. With all of that said... your main jet is really only measured at WOT, then after you have tuned the WOT, you would make needle adjustments to tune the midrange on the bike. With the lid removed you may be able to go to a 210 or 220, but the major limitation at this point is the stock pipes. Even with the lid removed, you may be able to take in more air, but you cannot get it out. So set your main by doing a WOT throttle plug check, then make needle adjustments so that the midrange is clean.

When you say K&N, are you running a K&N and a Proflow setup? With a lid and snorkel, no snorkel, no lid, or K&N clamp ons? All of this will affect what jetting will be appropriate for your bike. Also what is your air temp? That info should help us get you darn close.

You should be pretty close. I am running a filter setup without the airbox, wtih 340 mains @ sea level, 330's at 2000'. My guess is that you could probably pull a 320 or even the 330 depending on your air temp. Also I would guess you are right on the brink of bumping up to a 27.5 on the pilot. Mine ran fine on the stock pilot through the summer, but I had to bump up to the 27.5 as the temps started to fall off.

I've been running +4 on my timing for a while now, and have had no ill effects. Anywhere in the 3-4 range seems to be pretty common. I've heard of people running as much as +7 on ported bikes.

You could possibly be looking at a coil, but I might run the resistance numbers on the stator. The lighting and ignition windings of the stator are separate, so it is possible to have lights, but no spark.

Many places sell them. Toomey has one for around $53 or so, and they have twist upgrades for about 10 or 15 more. But my suggestion would be to stick with the thumb throttle.

My plate from Ricky set to set the air gap as close as you could, but no tighter than .20" So I got out a set of feeler gauges and set it at .20". Although I checked mine before disassembling it and it was set at .32" from the factory.

The clip is under the throttle cable retainer in the slide itself. You have to bunch the spring that is between the carb cap and the slide, shake the slide to get the cable retainer (gold colored keeper) loose, remove the throttle cable from the slide, and then take out the two screws in the slide holding the retainer in. This will expose the needle with the grooves and E-clip. Raising the clip towards the blunt end, lowers the needle and leans out your midrange, visa versa. Check out the pinned posts at the top of the jetting forum to get a lot of insight.

I believe the rule of thumb is 1 jet size for every 15-20 degrees.

Toomey sends a set of 270's and a set of 280's. But they send those jets with the kit that you mod the airbox and with the kit that you completely remove the airbox. The 280's are scary white, I had an old set of plugs in on my first WOT check, and it cleaned and whitened them right up, which spooked me. I'm running 340's now and my plugs are absolutely perfect, got pics for the doubters.

Sounds like he already has an IMS or comparable tank, referring to it as a long range tank. Back when I was running stock, it seems to me I went about 38 miles by another guys trip computer and I had to switch to reserve about 1 mile from the truck. So if dawarrior's math is right (I'm too lazy to check right now) then that doesn't sound that bad. Essentially a 5 gal tank would give you 2/3 more capacity (roughly) so at 40 miles on a tank, stock you'd be looking at around 60+ miles, so low 50's on a modded bike doesn't seem bad.

I would say this is probably pretty close, maybe 280-300 if you are running the airbox lid, towards 300 without the snorkel. Maybe as big as 310 if you aren't running the lid. A useful fact to know would also be what elevation and temperature you are running in. I can't see you needing a pilot any bigger than 27.5. That is what I currently run, with no airbox and the other mods listed in my sig @ 1.75 turns out on the air screws.

I'm all for doing mods and work myself, but I have to ask why not go with a Ricky Stator plate for $35? I apologize, I don't know the answer to your question, but just food for thought. I know you've been around for a while and have heard of Ricky's plate, so not trying to cause insult, just my .02

Sorry my bad... I should have explained that the stator could be checked while installed, just as justintoxicated said. I pulled mine because I had to run it down to the stealership, since I didn't have my multimeter with me at camp, plus I figured it was certainly the stator. With the symptoms my money is on the stator, but with a no spark condition you can toss out possible flooding. The good news is that both the stator and coil can be bench tested to determine if they are at fault. If they both test out, that leaves the CDI, under a no spark condition. If you can find a buddy with a bike I would recommend swapping his CDI to see if that fixes the problem, cuz new ones are pretty expensive, and usually non-returnable, so you bought it whether it fixes it or not. Good Luck

I have to wonder if it might be the stator. I had a bad situation with two screws backing out of the stator. Noticed while riding the dunes at night that the lights seemed to be crapping out, took a lot of revs to get sufficient light. Rode the next morning, was running like a champ. Took a break for lunch, then no fire at all. Tore it down and found the stator. Ran to the shop, replaced and then fired first kick. I'd have him pull the stator and check it out if he knows his stuff. Otherwise you can check it yourself easy enough if you have a multimeter.

The outerwears are water resistant. After talking with one of the engineers down at Outerwears (on another issue) he said that they water repellant qualities of the Outerwear is usually good for 6-12 months depending on how much you ride and riding conditions, of course.