2003LimitedBanshee

I agree I would probably upgrade to Dynojet needles. Some on here say they don't like them, I run them personally and feel they offer me marginally better adjustment. I think they might be a little on the more expensive side (especially when you consider what you're getting), but probably no more than if you were to get some through the Yamaha dealer. There are probably dozens on here that would have extra, stock needles laying around.

Just out of curiousity what kind of pipes are you running. Also what temperature are you at right now, if I read correctly you are at sea level. Also, have you done any modifications to the airbox, or removed it? The reason I ask is because I run 340's with my Toomey's when I ride at the dunes, at approx. 60-65 degrees. But I have removed the airbox entirely, which was about 4 jet sizes in itself if I recall right. As Banchetta mentioned to do the WOT check correctly you should run full throttle for about 6-10 seconds, then pull the clutch and hit the kill immediately. However, I have noticed that I can be riding the dunes, and after riding the short sand road (150 yds at most) at half throttle at best, I will still have a fairly representative color, but it really should be checked at WOT. Good luck, let us know what you find.

Thanks wes... I think I just found his screenname too. It looks like it is also BdBanshee

Anyone... I'm trying to figure out how to get ahold of Ron (BansheeWorx) The email from his page was returned, and I can't remember his screenname. Tried finding out in the Flywheel lightening post, and tried searching but no luck yet. Thanks

A Clymer's will be your best friend, but... The Reader's Digest version: Loosen top and bottom carriers bolts, loosen jam nuts on adjusting bolts. Turn adjusting bolts an equal number of turns until the chain has about .75" slack at the tightest point. If you have a stock carrier the adjusting bolts should have an attachment with "hash"marks that will give you an approximation of how square the carrier is to the swingarm. After adjusting, tighten the jam nuts, and retorque the upper and lower carrier bolts. 80-ish on the top and 48 (?) on the bottom, sorry don't have my Clymer's in hand.

Thanks for that post, I've been trying to find that link for a little while. Only thing is Ron's email on that site doesn't seem to work, and I can't remember his screenname. Is it BDBanshee ? Does anyone know/remember what he charges for the slotted milling? Sorry for the minor hijack--

Well one would assume (but we know what that means) that the previous owner should have had it jetted approximately correct, assuming (again?) that he was from the same area, ie. elevation, temp etc. It sounds like your pilot jetting (idle circuit) should be pretty close given the few kicks and then first kick startup after warm. If it seems to pull good through all rpm ranges chances are good that you're pretty close. As mentioned, do the WOT plug check and see what the plug color indicates. You are aiming for a light chocolate milk type color more or less. If you need to make adjustments to the midrange or WOT make the WOT first as it will affect your midrange. Once you have the WOT (main jet) adjusted make the appropriate needle adjustment to the midrange. Oh yeah, you can check out the pinned threads at the top for a full-on assault on this topic. Unfortunately, there is no cookie-cutter design, as every bike will respond slightly different.

I noticed that at the time as well, but unfortunately can't delete that portion from wayfst's response.

Don't get me wrong, I love this mod, and agree that I have found it much nicer than prior to lightening. I was just trying to illustrate what you said. If you are prone to stalling your bike, this will probably make it worse, because as you said you are probably lugging it around like it's a 4 stroke.

Like iceman said, because the flywheel has less mass after being lightened, it will build rpm quicker because the engine does not have to overcome as much resistance to build rpm. However, the flywheel also serves to maintain rotation (rpm), so with less mass on the flywheel, the resistance to rotation will have a more drastic slowing effect on rpm. Also, lightening the flywheel will not reduce horsepower to the real wheels in any way. It can, as mentioned, cause the bike to be more prone to stalling as the flywheel will not be as effective at keeping the engine rotating. However, once it is rotating the rpm can be more easily maintained, because there is less reciprocating mass. IMO this is a very good mod if you plan on duning or riding more open terrain. For tighter, more technical trails and such, also typically where you cannot be up on the pipe, in the higher rpm's, I don't think I would recommend this mod as much. If you want the best of both worlds, pick up a spare flywheel, have one lightened and leave one stock. Then just switch out depending on where you will be riding. That's what I've done.

First I would have the guts, balls etc. to say what I feel in the same room, whatever; just the to-the-point type of person I am. But in part you are right. I must agree that I can appreciate the technical detail, and info that has been provided in this post and the other stuff has been addressed prior. For that reason I am going back and deleting my prior post. If the info is out there and a new person doesn't do their homework, so be it. I may have been off base, if so my apologies, thanks for the check.

I have to agree on the air screws, two turns does sound like a bit much. I would try going with about 1 turn. If it improves go to a half, and if it likes it better at a half, I would personally go up one size on the pilot and go back to 1.5-2 turns. It also sounds like your main jetting could be a little lean. What air temp and elevation are you at? Do a WOT plug check to determine if your main jet is on, you should be aiming for a light chocolate milk color. Then, once you have the main jet set, adjust your needles accordingly to clean up any midrange issues you may have.

I do all of my riding at the Oregon dunes and have yet to be bothered for my T5's with no hush kit. I have heard that they were cracking down even more, but I made about 8-10 trips over this year, rode by many Rangers (easily though) and wasn't stopped once. Maybe just luck.

Must be nice to have money like that to waste, cuz that's what he was doing in my opinion. Why get some of the best cylinders out there and run 'em through the crappiest exhaust available? Sounds like you were thinking the same thing, but his choice.

Yes it is adjustable without fully disassembling after it is intalled. In regards to the billet vs. cast. This is not a high stress part, nor is it visible once you have reassembled everything; so I don't really see a benefit to having the billet over the cast, unless you wanna say you've got a billet timing plate. The only thing I found when installing my RS timing plate, was that I needed to clearance the outer edges of the mounting ears so that the plate would easily install, and allow for adjustment once installed. Without this you would have had to force the plate into place, as it hit the case slightly. I have heard this from several other members as well. If you have a pistol grip air sander and a Roloc disc, it will make very short, clean work of it.

It's really more of a seal, at least on my 2003. It's made out of rubber, and should be pretty resistent to tearing, and does not need to be replaced. Of course if there is damage from some prior teardown replace it at this point. I guess on older models it could be more of a gasket, but my experience is with bikes '02 and newer.

Thanks for all the replies so far... the other question is how much this will affect using the stock controls. I am betting you probably have to run a different clutch cable, and throttle cable? New brake lines?? Any help??? Thanks!

I need a bit of help finding a raised mount or bars with more rise. My dad also has a shee and he complains about his bars being too low (he's 6'3") if he has to stand up. I did some searching but didn't find exactly what I was looking for so... Does anyone know if some company makes stock size 7/8" bars that have a bigger rise than stock (maybe 2"). Or does anyone know of a company that makes a +2" riser for the stock 7/8" bars? Open to other ideas also. He didn't really say he wanted the fat bars, so... Christmas Hunting any help appreciated. Thanks!

Personally I would run a mix of race gas. I run a 40% mix of Trick 116 and Premium 91. You shouldn't need to run this mix, but really if you break it down a 40% mix in a five gallon jug will cost you about $4 dollars more than running straight 91 octane, pretty cheap insurance. Timing does definitely play a factor in running race gas, most say compression is the only significant factor, but timing has its effects.

I don't know how I missed that, but yeah. You shouldn't have your air screw turned all the way in. If it runs the best at this setting then you should bump your pilot jet up, and add a turn and a half or so. But if it runs better with a few turns out on the pilot you have now, well I guess that's self explanatory.

We need to know a little more about the mods that you have to make sure, elevation, air temp the usual. But from what you described it is a little hard to determine the exact cause of your problem. It could potentially be caused by either a lean or rich condition. However, because it is happening in the midrange, I would try adjusting your needle position before making main jet adjustments since you said it runs great up top. To be safe you could probably raise the needle one position (richer), but my guess is that would be too rich. So my money is on dropping the needle and see if it helps it out. How do the plugs look at WOT?

I assume you are talking about the heel guards that run between the stock nerfs and the rear fender. If so I have a set that I would be willing to part with. PM Sent.

The Ricky Stator timing plate does not come with any tuning instructions. Most commonly people will set with 3-5 degrees advance on most bikes. With a ported bike I have heard of some running 7-8 degrees advance. For a stock bike (not pipes I assume, but maybe you still have stock pipes either way) you should be fine running 3-4 degrees advance. Especially with stock pipes I don't know that you would notice much above that, but I'm not positive. The Ricky Stator 200w will allow you to run better lights without the risk of overloading the stock stator. I don't know that it would provide any performance advantage over a stock stator on a stock bike.

My guess is that you are quite lean. You can see the mods in my signature and I am running 340's right now, when I ride the dunes at sea level. I don't have a lot of familiarity with the PC pipes, but I would throw a set of 300's in for starters and see how it responds to that. It may be fat, but shouldn't be so fat that it will foul the plugs fast. Do a WOT plug test and see what the plug looks like. I always say you are going for a medium chocolate milk color. If it looks dark, and or bogs at WOT, bump down, or vise versa. Good luck