2003LimitedBanshee

Sorry, that was a dumb question. I looked at going with an R6 taillight, but it was aftermarket and had integrated turn signals. I forgot, stock has separate markers. I should have read closer, duh.

Man I figured you would be bigger than that. But I know you know (from other posts you've made) Toomey's seem to like bigger main jets. On the stock box, with lid and snorkel I would put you around 320-330. I run 340's at sea level, unported, but with no airbox. Dynojet needle (comes with Toomey pipe kits) in the fourth clip, 27.5 pilot.

I don't know if it is just me, but that link did not lead to a specific location. But you want the Mikuni main jets, shown in the middle of the page. If it bogs in 6th (plus you're fouling plugs) you're too rich. Ideally, if you have several sizes of jets at your disposal (I know have everything between 270 and 350, just too make sure I can compensate for all conditions, or in case someone needs a set) you should come down in size until it will pull all the way through 6th with no bog. This is a pretty accurate seat of the pants tuning method.

Some day I'm gonna strap down the bike on a dyno, so that this can finally be answered for sure... I'm not saying yes or no, but in many Asian countries where two-stroke bikes are still common transportation, most companies including Yamaha have a boost bottle type chamber on their stock bikes. It is called the Y.E.I.S., or Yamaha Energy Induction System. Have to wonder if it doesn't do anything, why would Yamaha install it on a factory bike. But don't have dyno sheet to show or disprove at this point.

No offense but, would you expect the Motion Pro guy to say, "Really ours is junk, I would run a Magura." With that said, Toomey carries the Motion Pro, and seems to back it, as much as you can a twist.

This may be a dumb question, but here it goes anyway. Do these have a separate circuit for controlling the tail vs. brake light? Or does it use the same input, and vary the intensity of the output based on the voltage input? Also how, if at all, did you address the turn signals. Did you just cut the leads for the turns and ignore? Thanks!

This might explain why the other 2 dozen aren't on here complaining?? I guess some people are able to succeed in spite of themselves. Feel bad about posting, and bringing this back to the top , but couldn't resist.

If the bike is unported, +4 should be pretty good, about the standard. I did notice a difference in the seat of the pants comparison. Rode a friends bike with the exact (I mean exactly) the same mods, with the exception of timing advance on mine. Obviously not going to be like the difference from stock to pipes, but you should feel a difference, primarily on bottom, but throughout also. I could notice a difference in the exhaust tone, and throttle response. Good mod, should not notice ill effects.

Check out this link, Toomey Upgrade all the way at the bottom.

Kind of what I was thinking. I would guess it would be more in the 60's range depending on what pipes/port job you have. Stock carbs? etc.? But true, the only way to be able to back it with absolute confidence is to take it to a dyno.

Toomey will supply you with a "Perfect Jet Kit" that will suffice if you are running the stock airbox. It comes with 270's (above 2500') and 280's (sea level to 2500'). If you don't ride in the mud, real wet etc. you could also do the high flow 2:1 UNI filter setup. However, if you do this you will need to get some bigger jets than the 280's that are supplied, as it will now flow more air than the stock setup. If you go with the 2:1, you should look into jets around 300-330, depending on elevation, temp, and additional mods.

Gee, glad I asked to talk to someone in Tech Support, and she said okay one moment I'll transfer you, then the lady that answer the phone said "FMF tech...". At this point whatever, I know what I polish my Toomey's with and if FMF's tech articles and people are right that is what I would polish the Fatty's with. But if they aren't f%#* it. I'm tired of people assuming that I'm some jackass, who doesn't know how to check out my shit. True I've never owned a set, and I was going by what all the FMF tech articles and tech support people had been telling me, trying to pass along some help to an HQ'er.

Just saw your post, at the same time. If I'm wrong then FMF needs to update their shit and tell ALL their employess what the facts are.

Funny you should mention that... cuz I just got off the phone with FMF, and they said that Fatty's for a Banshee are DEFINITELY CHROME PLATED. You can all call them if you like @ (310)631-4363. I just spoke with a very pleasant lady, who confirmed the two sources I already sited as those pipes being CHROME for a Banshee. God Damn, nobody but me will take initiative to check their info. At least it's good to be right. Somebody else, other than me should check it out so I can show the world. (Now I'm starting to be an ass, because nobody will check but me, and everyone says I'm wrong, well EXCEPT FMF).

Since it appears that we need to start a pissing match... I have already been to FMF's site, that is why I attached the link I did. But to amuse you I went back to FMF's site to their FAQ's under, What does Gold Series mean. Hey what do you know it specifically states in there as well, that the Gold Series refers to the Nickel plating HOWEVER SST's and ATV pipes receive chrome plating. WHY will you not take the 2.5 seconds to go look for yourself. I have a feeling that there is a big serving of crow coming someone's way, and it doesn't look to be mine. P.S. I am not trying to be an ass etc. I just don't want to be discounted as some jerkoff, when I'm RIGHT. Not gloating, just fact.

I'm telling you look at the link I put in my last post, it states it clear as day. I don't mean to be an ass, but I did my research. The link is to a pdf document from FMF's site, and it specifically says that the Gold Series Fatty has a chrome finish on ATV pipes, dirt bikes do have a nickel plated finish. Just check the link to amuse me. If I'm wrong I'll eat crow.

Nope, older models may be but... P I P E I N S T R U C T I O N S Thank you for purchasing the FMF Fatty pipe for your motorcycle or ATV. We have spent countless hours of design work and testing to insure you receive the highest quality product on the market today. Your FMF Fatty pipe has been developed using the latest design, testing and manufacturing technologies. Our Tru-Flo stamping process insures quality fitment and optimal performance. Your pipe is manufactured from 19 gauge US steel and is nickel plated (ATV pipes have a chrome finish) to provide you with a durable and easy to clean finish . The FMF Fatty pipe is designed to broaden your existing powerband and give you an all around power increase. This is our most popular pipe for that reason. Check out our website www.fmfracing.com for more information. Here's the link to where I got this from FMF's site. http://www.fmfracing.com/tech_instructions/misc/fatty.pdf True, FMF silencers are nickel plated (Toomey's slinecers are a satin finish aluminum). So a #00 steel wool process will clean them right up. As long as you use double ott, you shouldn't have any problem with scratching (I've never used WD-40 in any application, although it shouldn't hurt, it will just mean more cleanup time). Then if you really want to top them off find yourself a good chrome polish. I use a brand called Maas, it can be used on aluminum, chrome, etc.

wtf are you talking about... I just reread everyone's posts and I don't see anyone saying you should chop it and run it chopped. I know I am definitely not that stupid, or cheap, and I can't imagine anyone else... although I have read about some pretty ghetto shit that I would never do (even from some on here)

My best guess would be 3 (or maybe more) sizes bigger than you were running at 65-70 degrees. Did you have to do the topend becuase you leaned it out?? If so I would go 4+ sizes. I personally don't know of any side effects of that cold of temps, because I don't have the gumption to ride in those elements (although you don't have a choice in Alaska). But I do know I've heard of guys racing Banshees on frozen lakes, so it must be doable, but maybe they take special precautions.

Try jetting those T5's a little bigger and you may love them even more. It seems that the Toomey's like a little more main than the Fatty's do. Toomey's do rip, I couldn't be happier.

19 gauge US steel and is nickel plated (ATV pipes have a chrome finish)... from FMF's site. Anyway, if you have a thick buildup from your pants or boots I would recommend getting the bike and pipes up to riding temp, this will make the stuck on gunk very pliable. Then very carefully use a razor blade to "squeggy" (sp?) most of the material off. Let the pipes cool, so that the material will re-harden. Then use double ott #00 steel wool. And make sure it is #00. This will not scratch chrome, I use it on my T5's all the time, and have used it on car bumpers. As I recall, SOS and Brillo pads are much coarser, and would be more likely to scratch, although the soaping residue may reduce this. By doing these two steps it should have the pipes shining in no time at all.

I would doubt it was a TM saver, mine fits fairly tight as recall. I wouldn't think there was enough space for it to be able to ball up a chain, but I could definitely be wrong. Luckily I haven't put mine to the test yet.

In my opinion you can check the plug using a real good light and some sort of magnification. I have a workbench mounted light and magnifying glass combination that I use for other things but you can see down inside the plug easy enough. Otherwise cut a section of the thread from top to bottom. In reality you don't necessarily need to cut it that far, but it is going to be junk anyway so it doesn't really matter.

Glad I bought Toomey's... or even left it stock for that matter.

It probably will run fast at 240 because it has to be lean at that main size. As long as it is not lean enough to stick it will run real fast lean... for a while. I agree, I would guess you should really be in the 260-280 range. I run Toomey's and no airbox, but the Fatty's don't seem to prefer as much main as Toomey's. I would really be hesitant about doing a WOT plug check at that main size, but you could try it. I would throw some 260's in, then do a plug check just to be safe. Then adjust based on what you see as far as plug color.