trickedcarbine

Hmm, wonder how long it will take for the lynch mob to argue your point on this one windy. It will be funny when some one comes in here and pitches a cunt fest, then winds up buying them any way.

Dude get a clue! It is physically impossible for you to know how to port an engine unless you're listed under site sponsors! Haha, purely sarcastic. Obviously the "pros" are the best a what they do so yeah, putting your shit in a ups box and forking over dollars will make you about as fast as you wanna be. However, I am pro sacrificial research. Even if you ruin 30 sets of cylinders, you will know more about porting then most any ol' average joe. If you feel, wait. If you know you are a competent individual who is able to grasp the concept of how a two storks really works and you are willing to accept a failure here and there. I'd say go for it. You ask these guys(Jeff, Kevin, Jim, Kim, etc.) and they will tell you that their biggest success was well down the road after several experiments gone awry. Yes those guys do the best porting. I just wish every one wasn't so discouraging every time someone else is willing to give it a go. One day our current list of site sponsors will be gone and retired. Then who is gonna port our shit? I'm certainly not switching to a four stroke!

Ahh, so you are learning grass hopper.... That FMF to shearer comparison is the type of scenario I was trying to explain to you when you were looking in to a pipe with a little more grunt out of the hole. Cant help but feel like this is the same kinda stuff i was talking about with ya a while back. On the smaller stock cyl builds it is very possible for what most people say are junk trail pipes to peak the same numbers as big inframes just earlier. The CPI will probably be a bit more of a peak though. He had the stage 4's and obviously he is committed to a higher strung pipe to see what it does. Can't go wrong with the CPI in my Experience. March, let us know if it needs more fuel then the trinitys. That will be a fair indication that it makes a little more power.

You run a banshee so you will probably be stuck in the outlaw class. In that case, you can never go to big as long as you have the balls to hang on. Just don't let a builder con you in to drag cylinder unless they plan on serious re working. My big bore 440 motor was fast, but the little 4mil stock cyl 12 port Jim just did for me Fuggin hauls the mail!

I knew I should of just deleted that. My bad loco, I apologize for the severe misinformation. I won't let that shit happen again.

People here have got to realize that some times you just have to make what you have work the best you can. Not every one can just call a builder and say hey I wanna run this pipe, build the motor around it, and then go write a check. That motor could easily pull CPI pipes with race gas domes and timing. Guys out west are doing it in Oregon on stock stroke motors on very conservative porting. I'm not saying it is the best, but I am saying it can be done.

Give the CPI's a go, they will probably do ok with where your at mod wise. The 33's you have will probably be ok to. Of course you could see even better gains with proper porting and what not. But that is down the road. There are a ton of north west dune bikes that run the CPI pipes and 33's for shooting idiot holes. So they will probably be more then fine to get in tight stuff for a bit and come out blasting the open land full wick.

Funny thing is, the guys bashing on the new 4's before they are even out probably have some type of V force product or will eventually have these or the set of threes I will be selling. It was getting hard to find good used 2's and I am glad they found a way to bring the better design back with out the fucking screws.

VF2's make better overall power. They also let a screw go from time to time causing serious engine damage. In comes the VF3. Modular, easy to replace parts, not quite the performance of a VF2. Now from what little I have seen here and after looking at one of the new VF4's on a buddy's dirt bike, it is pretty much the better performing VF2, yet in a modular package like the VF3. I haven't been talking to the couple guys dynoing them on banshee applications, but I have seen them perform on dirt bikes and I am gonna have to piss in every ones Cheerios and say they do work believe it or not. Their claim isn't over the VF3, it is over the stock cages with good reeds. The one I saw for a ktm 300 had improved tension pedals so that some how the things actually create more torque and yet more up top. Just the seat of pants difference was enough to impress me and I have had some decent motors under me. It did end up needing more fuel, and more fuel means more go!

There are a few posts with people here just regurgitating info. From reading each post it seems weird what people are reccomending as if they didnt fully read what the original poster had said. First he has a what is a mx port, but it could be fairly aggressive depending who ported it.(who did port it march) He mentions that he does long straight pulls, which makes think of the guys who ride open fields, power line trails, fire roads which would definitely make something like the CPI or Rocket, maybe even the PT hi rev would be pretty good choices. After all the hi rev was the pipe of choice for a few pikes peak winners who needed to come out of the turn yet wick it out for long runs. March says it is on trinity pipes already and he is looking for a bit more pull so I don't quite think FMF, Pro Circuits, or similar pipes would be the solution.

In my opinion, if you are on a 4,500 budget and all the rides out by you are roaches, maybe the best thing to do would be to buy a cheap roach. Find something with a blown top end or worse. Then spend 3,500 on it once and be done. It is pretty rare that a guy has the intention of modding a banshee and not spend money twice because they didn't wanna go to far the first time

Might get chewed for it, but last time that issue was brought up I remember Tyler was wanting pipes for the hybrid and he wasn't willing to chop the hell out of a pipe that nice when the shearers were already in need of a butcher.

So dealers get the info in August? How bout us, what is the scoop on the VF4? Sorry, nick kinda led on in another thread and I only assumed it was you, now this confirms it. Get us another thread. You know so people have one more thing to bitch about. "At the track!", "No, on the dyno!" Seriously, I gotta know before I start hunting down used VF2 cages.

No! The carbs are only minor, the 1000 unusable cranks are fucking nuts! The real kicker is the 400+ cheetah cylinders that Wayne had machined without testing out one before finding out the design needed tweaking. http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51542 I have followed this situation closely on the RZ/RD forums for a while now. It was known what was happening and Stephan kept quite and just kept writing the checks. Finally he realized enough was enough. It's a shame. Because a refined cheetah could be bitching on a gp track or my frozen oval ice banshee.

Those Asian bitches are so totally ready for the cumshot!

Matt has also had the last few years of his life to spend full time working on his engine/pipe program. Matt has been doing a lot more engine building lately, but now that jim has gone full time I wouldn't hold your breath. It is only a matter of time before he can put his pent up thoughts to the paddles! I hope to see a legitimate throw down sometime. An engine masters style challenge if you will. Alky 4 mil cub. Same chassis built by the same guy, chosen equal weight jockeys, same trannys, etc. every variable the same! Only cylinder porting, pipes and tuner difference. Just funny to me that Matt always likes some one till they start making their own pipes. For the record I swing on neither sides nuts. Yet......

Ok Gary, originally these were for cubs, maybe drag port stockers. When I had a 12 port done by Jim, he expressed that the shearers would be better suited for my motor. So has there been enough testing to show that these pipes may actually be better on the dune style port durations as well? I have a 194 exhaust and I guess I'm just a little thrown off by the last part of that post where you show a range of 189+ degrees. I really wanna try these out and see, but the cost is just nuts for trial and error. Plus I have been reiterating Jim's words steering people away from these on stock cyl builds, so if I'm wrong let me know. Brett

That bike is tits man! Finally got off the out of frames, huh? Are those a big bore shearer or standard? I'm mostly a Michigan ice racer (granted it will ever freeze again). What are the specs on that beast if you don't mind me askin'? All I remember about it was a big cub.

Prove it!

Facts & science, oh and logic! Good luck. People just don't care. It's like convincing Catholics that the dinosaurs existed.

Meh, I think they have one of those relationships like two high school girls who hang out every day but secretly hate each other and talk shit about each other. Haha. Seriously though, Matt has been known to talk down about several builders and their porting practice and Jim I know for a fact is one of them. However that was a conversation a couple years ago. However when Jim finished my cylinders a few months ago and had a minute to talk to me on the phone, he did recommend that I run the Shearers over the Snipers on my stock cylinder build. On that note. I am not sure why so many people with stock cylinder builds are trying to get in on the snipers. They were designed for a cub or larger cylinder, so when they slap them on a stock cyl motor and it doesn't do what every one assumes it will, they will come right here to pitch a bitch. Jim him self has reccomended the "competitor" pipe for any stock cyls. That is a pretty honest move for a guy trying to launch a new line of pipes. By the way. All this nut swinger talk makes me wanna build a mini swing from twine and popcicle sticks to hang from my freshly trimmed and shampooed nuts!

God damnit! Every time I have the cash to blow on some shearers there are none. Now that I'm tight and trying to get out to Vegas there have been several sets for huber cheap. FML!

And this is why our chicks won't let us put it in their butt with out lube. Seriously though, some one forgot about oil. When you go to assemble it, keep a clymer manual near by for reference and if anything leads you to wonder if it should be replaced, just go ahead and do so. Once it is assembled, pressure test it, squish test it, compression test it. Any questions you have post here. There are a lot of very informative fellas here. Although you might get smart ass answers, just play it cool. A lot of guys will bust your balls just to break you in a little bit. Take no offense.

You should google macdizzy. It is a little bit older but very informative as far as learning basic layouts

I kinda mentioned this the other day to daj. I don't think think it will be just dyno results or just track results that dictate wich pipe is better. When people use a dyno it is a tool for tuning. And what most people aren't getting when it comes time to guys proving the pipes at the track, is that they don't necacarrily mean wich bike finishes first. Albeit that kinda becomes a factor. When testing on a track you must first have a consistsant baseline. Typically there are people who can run their bike with in a few hundredths or at least a consistsant tenth. For instance a guy who races regularly might run between 4.30-4.40 all day at a test and tune. Now you take that same bike and put the different pipes on. Here is the point where I feel that the previous dyno testing would help so that you know relatively how it should be tuned at the track. Any way, make a few passes to verify tune up and begin your routine passes for e/t. This is where the difference is seen. Does it 60ft better overall? Does it have higher trap speed? Are the average et's getting faster. Then comes the chassis issues that every one bickers about. Is the bike blowing the tire off on the new pipe? Is it because it hits the same power later but more violently? Or is it because the new pipe makes more torque earlier? Is the new pipe wanting more gear or less gear? Those are all factors that if under stood can help determine if indeed they make a better choice. Don't worry about the win light till that shit is sorted out.