trickedcarbine

First, that banshee is far cheaper and easier to coax power out of then any four stroke. A 4 mm stroker and porting is a 70ish horse combo that will always be ahead of almost any 4 poke. (not all 4 strokes though, there are some beasts lurking) just try making 60 horse on a Honda 450 for what it costs to do the same with a banshee. Not to mention it isnt a matter of if, but when a motor goes. Just compare the cost of rebuilding any poker to a 2 stroke twin. Yeah it costs money to get that thing going, but I dare you to sell it and buy a stock 450 and go ride with your buds built rappy. You probably wouldn't be to stoked on the result. Just do some research and make sure you figure out what combos are out there that really work. There are plenty 350 motors out there that make people very happy. But like I said, do research. DO NOT just slap parts that you like together with out knowing how part A works with Part B.

Drooooooool.......................

I ordered mine not long ago and I finally got some aggressive time on it. There is definitely a noticeable difference in the way it shifts. I did have a stock modded star and I noticed that it has a more positive engagement feel and it also makes finding neutral a snap to find. Mine is on a WCR pro mod tranny and also accompanied by a fast shaft and shift pro arm and spring. No missed shifts and I tried for one in choppy switch backs.

There is no replacement for displacement. I would certainly not worry about overheating any aftermarket cylinders as long as the cooling system is up to snuff. (water pump, radiator, etc) It probably wouldn't be a good idea to go open dune a big cougar or caracal cylinder for hours on end, but cubs, cheetahs, dm/x's, athenas, wicked sr71, and twister cyls are all up to the task of keeping themselves cool if you know how to tune and have the cooling system needed. I really am surprised I am not seeing more of the super servals as the extra 50 CC's are the same price. However making a stock cylinder capable of big bore is almost a waste now a days and after 68 mm they need ALOT of work to keep them sealed up and become almost unreliable. Dunno if that helps ya or not

X2 on quality powder coat. They're about 10 mins from me here so I see a lot of the work from there. Nothing but top notch from chopper frames to my buddies jeep parts. The banshee comes stock with black powder coat, so there is no worries when it comes to coating your cylinders.

Your fucking avitar is just priceless! That dude has moves like jagger!

Prime warning JD, never use the stainless bolts that come in the kits for a arms. They WILL shear even on some drag bikes that get in to the choppy stuff. Just polish the stockers or equivalent. Also, stay away from the titanium in the critical pivot points. Titanium has no give and eventually just cracks or shears. The pro riders use all titanium, but in critical pivot points.

Any one know if there any grill kits out there that might be massaged to work with the contours if I opened it up for a radiator in stock location? I really want an all white tank cover but for the cost the entire hood is more legit

Ha! Fuckin' aye. That is the best way I have ever heard it put when it comes to performance and price on banshees.

I have actually saw a pikes peak style bike that used a modified RZ350 cover with the oil injection pump modified to pull oil from the case circulate it through a small cooler and dump it right back on to the 8 plate clutch set up he had in there. It was really cool, but I wonder how much it really helped and I just couldn't see all the work and added weight being worth it. Just find a good synthetic oil and change it often and you would be golden in my opinion.

I would definitely try to get some different domes in that set up. I just went through that with my passion motor. It was 210 in each cylinder and I finally got ahold of Jim about it and we decided it is best to bring it down to 180. Anything over that and the motor just fights itself in the revs. And Jim is a compression advocate Take the compression out and give it timing if you want that oomph when you wick the throttle

It might not be as fast as the built banshees, but its faster then stock and you probably did it on a decent budget that was less then what it would cost to build a banshee twin to be as fast. You built it with your hands which is more then most will ever even attempt, so kudos. Enjoy it till it is toast. Then build a real banshee ; p

That is exactly what the guy says they are in the Honda post. Never been to in to the as wheels

I could be way off, but when I think of turbo noise I'm thinkin' air flow. As in air leak. I have saw a Polaris that had a whine that came from an intake boot. Give that thing a pressure test as well

I would have to dissagree with ya. There are a lot of shitty conversions, however there are some good conversions out there. It just so happens that most people aren't that good at fabrication yet still tackle a project like this. Camatv, loco,and a few others have gorgeous conversions, but they are also very detail oriented and good fabricators. There are quite a bit of them rolling around in Europe and some are just gay but some are flat out sick! The one that ran pikes peak the last two years is the only reason a banshee engine even has a chance of competing for victory at peak. All in all, if you can weld a line of dimes, engineer in your head, and have a capable fab shop in your garage go for it. If you would need a buddy to do this, and a shop to do that, then don't bother. But if you are good, not just ok but GOOD, go for it.

Simply put, BAD ASS! I have their sprockets on my bike, they have been there since I was 15 (10 years ago) and bought the banshee. They were on a stock stroke big bore, big bore stroker, and now my passion stroker. I used to be a lot heavier(265 lbs) and always rode the shit out of it. The bike has gone through several frame ups and the sprockets are just always mint. The only reason I have considered new ones is to play with gearing changes.

Well, if you change your mind I would be more then interested in the COMPLETE motor. Filters to exhaust and everything in between. Leaving you with a decent roller to still sell. I know it won't be a steal, so if you break down, let me know.

Pretty sure Mattoon Machine has one. They are fairly priced products to boot.

That thing has gotta be a killer ride. I wish mine was long travel, but for the cash I will just grab up a 450 and do the hybrid. You can definitely swap on the 450 calipers and master up front and a stainless line for the rear would definitely be noticed. A nice wertz or asv clutch lever and a nice set of shifter and brake levers that fit you would also help a lot

Trail and drag are pretty different styles of riding. That is like saying " I wanna build a top fuel funny rally car". If you mean you want a potent motor that you can ride in trails and yet still blast your buddies in the open straights, look in to a good dune style set up. If you set up the entire package properly then you will be more then happy in trails and there should be no shortage of straight line thrills.

Teuche'

No. Do you have proof that a 110 rod is just as reliable. If so you should call every long rod crank manufacturer and make sure that they know that they wasted alot of time and money to create a rod that is less prone to oval the cylinder bore or distort the exhaust side of the piston. I know a 110 might rev out a little quicker, but the 115 rod is just less cranking resistance, less prone to wear, and just all around better geometry. Also, is your 110 rod motor a stroker? Because obviously a 110 rod can be pretty reliable, and typically they are. BUT, they are also usually in less radical motors. My stock stroke 110 rod big bore motor was together for years. For stock stroke it may not be much of a difference but in stroker motors it makes a difference on stress and fatigue. Notice motors with huge strokes have even longer rods then 115mm. You mentioned in another post that you wanted proof not an explanation on the physics and all that jazz, but that is the proof.

Can I get a little more info on what you ride, where you will ride, surface, etc. There are just so many variables to consider when setting up.

In your first post you mentioned that your builder reccomended the 110 rod crank with a spacer plate. That in it self should be a sign that you should be looking for a new builder. The 110 rod is less reliable due to the angle the rod gets thrown to. The spacer plate will throw off port timings and is just another thing to go wrong. You may have been using this particular mechanic for previous rebuilds, but any builder that is familiar with the current banshee market would never reccomended that particular combo. Not bashing him, he may be a good all around rebuilder, but there are several guys who eat, sleep, and breathe for the banshee and their motors will far exceed the limits of what any old local shop can do for you. I highly suggest spending some time looking for a true banshee specialist that you vibe with and get your self set up with a proper 115 rod 4 mil, proper porting, dome, and gasket selection. Again your local dude may be ok, but it probably won't save you much coin to use him and you will be left with a less then stellar result. NO PLATE!