trickedcarbine

Hmm, lectrons..... I love the thought of running alky through lectrons on my bike, but it just wouldn't work out for me in the winter. The power would be nice though. It seems that most people don't even bother with the lectrons for gas. Most guys with them tell me that they would definitely go Keihin or mikuni for if they ever had another gas motor. How do they work on gas compared to say a Mikuni tm/x or Keihin Pwk?

I have been trying to figure out just wich carb to run for the larger more open style tracks I'll be riding on the ice this season. I tested a set of FTZ 35.5 carbs and they were pretty nice, but I need impossible to find mikuni tm34 body/bell gaskets, so they are on the shelf. I was gonna try a set of large Pwk/Strykers till my boss at work brought up the Keihin PWM. He told me It works nice on his CR 250 with an Eric Gorr port job, and runs super crisp bottom to top. Another of his claims is that it is super easy to dial in, and isn't as effected by climate change. Any one here try a set of these on a banshee. I havnt ever heard of them put on a banshee, but I would be willing to try them out if any one has some positive comments on them.

Hey man, glad you made it on to HQ. I was the guy who talked with you for about 2 hours on saturday about that monster. Did you get around to putting it up in detail in the for sale forum? I still really want that chassis, if not that one we will have to get together on building one. Hell, after this sleeve in my cylinders wiggled down this weekend, I just may pony up and be the one to take that whole thing off your hands.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/521-powervalve-banshee-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb63c56f8QQitemZ200625903352QQptZATVs#ht_844wt_959 Easy, just buy this beast! Looks rough, but it truley is a top notch fab job. Engineered for Outlaw rules only though. No it's not a 250r frame, it is sorta like a midget or late model chassis as far as adjustability goes. FYI, the last time I saw a swing arm with eccentric style adjustment, it was on a Factory Harley Davidson flat tracker. If it ain't pretty enough for you, powder and chrome it. I can only imagine the look on guys faces when it starts up and they walk over to the pits scratching their heads trying to figure out what really is under that little ol 250r plastic.

Yeah the chassis is raw steel and the plastics are just replacement junkers, the adjustability set up like midgets or late model racers. Would be fun for oval/ice racing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/521-powervalve-banshee-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb63c56f8QQitemZ200625903352QQptZATVs#ht_844wt_959 I came accross this bike on Craigslist and I am really interested in the rolling chassis, but I have a fresh motor combo already. So after contacting the guy and a few people to verify the status of the machine, I asked if he is willing to part the bike out. The answer I got was only if the motor will sell for a decent price. Any one looking for a solid freight train of a motor? Give this thing a peek, because I really want this friggin chassis.

Man! That looks like a killer time. You Clark boys are Fucking nuts! You guys are jumping bike/motor combos that some guys would only dream of straight lining on smooth asphault. Good luck this season

Hahaha! That is exactly what was said. And that was exactly how they were shipped. Fucking nuts! But it will be nice to get rid of those Fuggin pipe clamps

Thanks for the help fellas. Bad news though..... FourPlay no longer has/produces the piece they show on their website. And works had some, but I bought the last set today.

Been trying to locate a set of billit clamps for the resiviors on my works shocks. I wanna get away from the chincy rubber mounts and worm year clamps. I keep finding the Mod-Quad ones through Google, but no one is actually stocking them. Any Ideas?

Thanks for the solid info cam. I would love to run alky, but I ride to much in the winter to wanna deal with the kick and spray, kick and spray ordeal. So, those cookies from the dark side. They aren't made by the same folks who made that really KILLER koolaid for Jones Town are they?

Said it once and I'll say it again. AEROCHARGER! Just Google that. Completely self contained, so space is not a factor and weight savings are extreme. They have even developed their smaller variable vane units to work with two stroke applications. As far as pipe, just call shearer and get ONE made. Single pipes and plenums are tried and proven by Matt Shearer, Dan Hull, and a few other known names. Unless you got full dyno access, stick with the proven combos.

Ok, I have always been a high compression guy when it comes to my banshee, but lately it seems to be a major controversey. Obviously high compression motors are harder on parts and require high dollar fuel or alky to run and neither of that is a problem to me, because you gotta pay big to play big. On that note, well worth it. however I run a weird big bore stock cylinder and it actually destroys domes due to the lack of structural material on the sealing lip area. A major concern for Dave at NOSS. Any way, my builder and I discussed the idea of going with a machined stock head and with my current bore size and stroker crank it is probably the best way to go without giving wicked a call for their big bore head. Upon setting up the head, I mentioned how much I love the way high compression motors run down low. he proceeded to tell me that once you get it in to the revs you actually begin to lose power due to cranking loss. more or less the motor actually begins to fight it self. So rather then my usual 185 psi target I stated maybe we should take it down to about 165 psi to keep it reliable as well as see if it makes a little more horse power with out sacrificing some of that much desired torque. The day I go to pick up the head up he tells me that his math with a .020 base gasket and .020 head gasket puts me at around 140-150 psi and about 50-60 thousandths on the squish. Of course he saw my shitty look that I gave him and told me that it will undoubtedly run better then my last set of domes did, but if I wasnt happy with it he would cut it again for free. Am I nuts for being adamant about high compression and racegas motors? Where is the cut off point at wich the compression can actually cost power, granted the fuel is adequate and tuning is on target? I just don't get how most of the faster machines wether it is a car or bike run race fuel, but apparently it may not be the optimal set up. Is race gas just hype....... or a gimmick? Hypothetically, you take a Serval cylinder that is cranking at 150 psi and it lays down 50 ft. lbs. and 80 h.p. Would that motor make more torque at 175psi, but lose top end h.p.? I have just always been a firm believer in the compression being the way to go if you didn't mind breaking parts and high fuel prices, but now I don't really know what to think. Any one with a little knowledge or experience feel like sheding light on the situation?

Finally got a great deal on a -2 Lonestar swinger, and I have way to much slack in my current steel line. Most of the places I have looked at only have stock length and extended length. Is there anyone that makes a minus 2 line or even makes custom lines for a decent price?

The comment about purity is definitely true. No way the parts could take an annodized finish with out pulling sleeves, and then running the parts through a tumbler first. But even so, they probably wouldn't take it. Why not just powder coat them? Just blast the parts and send them off to someone you can trust will get them done. There are ALOT of powder coating shops now adays, and with the quality and technology involved it, is a simple process that rarely goes wrong if even an average experienced guy does the job. Plus with all the new powders out you can make some killer colors.

Pj carbs can be weird if they are the first set of big carbs you are learning to tune. The jetting you have listed is a lil fat from my experience. Try the pilot between 48-55. Needle should be either CGL or CEL. The clip is up to you. As for your main jet, you should be 148-155ish. Start out on the fat end. Here are the most critical tid bits of info on a Pj carb. They don't really rely on your airscrew adjustments to make the bike idle. To get the idle, you need to turn the choke knobs out about 7 1/2 turns. Mark them with a paint pen or white out to keep track of where they are at. Keep the air screws at about 2 turns, and leave them till the bike doesn't feel like it could possibly run any better.

Pm sent, also got some shiny goodies laying around.

Agreed: MOST will never push an axle to it's potential. I got ya though. I tried to kinda specify that it was more desirable for actual racing. I just love how much more smooth it can be on really fast smooth surfaces. Only better axle is the RPM Dominator. So, what's he deal griff? I expect to see pics of this LSR stuff on your rig, or a pm tellin me where to get it.

There is a reason one is more the other. Usually the excuse is high end name brand, but in this case it actually isn't. QUALITY! The Lonestar piece will take abuse for years, run higher speeds with less vibration, and flex less. All superior qualities when it comes to racing flat track. Ran my lonestar axle for probably 10 years and I am just now begining to contemplate a replacement. The splines on the hubs are starting to wear, but again, after a decade. So grab that stuff up!

Holy cow, $300 bucks for LSR +2+3 arms? That is a helluva friggin deal! Take them. If you don't, please pm me where and who I need to talk to. I would love those on my flat track setup. You will be able to get away with them being about 50" wide. If you run aftermarket wheels, just discuss the offset you want with the folks you are buying them from. Little tip on that note: if they can't explain or tell you how to properly set your offset, then they aren't worth your dollars. Call someone else. And if they don't quite tech in at 50 inches, just raise the front end up for tech, and lower it at race time. Most techs will never question any name brand aftermarket production setups though.

Windy, I say go for it. Alot of guys will say that you're wasting your time, but really you never know how the actual results will be. As long as you aren't a fuggin hack and are gonna test something different it will be more then worth it. There aren't many pioneers left in our world and it takes alot of character to go the road less travled knowing the odds are against you. I have a dude I just met that had a 2/1 intake from trinity and after you hold in your hand and see the design, you instantly know there is much to be desired. So we took a manifold off my old 440 exciter motor and found a 38mm pwk to use behind it. Let me tell ya', that bike will be sweet in the trails! Yes, it could make more top end, but not much of his riding ever gets up in the 5th/6th gear range. Plus new pipes could change the whole bike if he needs it. It makes wicked snappy 250 type bottom end and enough mid to pull the front down the straights on our ice track. There are plenty of good sleds out there with good power that run ONE carb and ONE pipe. Just gotta get people willing to put enough time in to make it work right. Here's the combo of old parts we put together. Stock cylinder 4mil, cool head with stroker domes @120 psi, boyeheson rad valves w/dual stage reeds, slightly modified 440 exciter manifold, 38 pwk, and early fmf golds.

Just practice the hole shot. Don't just rev the motor and dump the clutch, these things just blow the tires off every time if you do. Try locking the front brakes and loading the bike's suspension up by slipping the clutch just a hair while your on the throttle. Friggin 450's walking on banshees, pshhhhhh. Those things may be torque monsters and all, but they pretty much peak at around 65HP with full tilt motors.(big bore, stroker, porting, valves, etc.) Not to many of those out there compared to built banshees though. Fortunately for me I have had a built banshee before the 450's even came out in 2004, and have only beat by one 450 ever thanks to Brad Tyson's fuggin handy TURBO skills. Damn thing made 105 HP without touching the bottle of spray on the bumper. Too bad it was half as reliable as any banshee. Not to mention that when it does let go it would cost 3 times as much to rebuild.

Tyson Racing! Brad always calls back even if it is only for tech help, wich always turns to an hour long of bench racing. He does alot other work in the day time now, but try to give him a call after 5:00 or so.

Well, the theory will definitely be tested either way.. Due to the new sleeve being a nikasil sleeve, it will be thinner and problably be in the 68-70mm area and with a 4 mil crank it will be a decent sized motor. Plus the exhaust on the original viper sleeves before had the potential to out flow the intake on full drag port, but it did seem as if there was more left in it if the transfers were addressed before actually inserting the sleeve. No worries though GoFast, I definitely know what you meant. Just trying to develop a way to flow as much as a full ported drag cylinder, yet still have enough velocity to develop big torque. Not to mention the price for me is pretty acceptable. Only thing I gotta pay for is pistons, intake work, wich isn't much more then a good port job, and possibly some domes.

Cam, e-mail is sent. It is just a few I had the guy dig up real quick. Yamahaman244, mobile photobucket? Holy shit good to know. Bout to check that out asap. That would sure save alot of aggravation. By the way, the guy who does the intake work does have a shop. It is called Spec II Racing.