trickedcarbine

The 2/1 setups are usually a bit tricky to learn because there are 2 cylinders pulsing the carb. It makes it all the more critical to jet spot on, so that the motor will pull thru the whole rpm range without funny spots. Try swaping to an EEK needle. It is a pretty common choice for two cylinder motors with a single carb, and it helps the transitions from pilot, and coming on to the main.

Just use a machinist straight edge to measure the full stroke of the piston. 54mm is stock, 58mm is 4mil.

Those are definitely ported. Looks like they were done well, but in the photo it appears as if the bridge in the intake is gone. Not a big deal to fix. Just use brazing rod to build up the metal even with the sleeve, and a dremel to match the profile of what is left. Remember to hone and chambfer it all again after the work. Those motors can run pretty good with the 4 mil cranks. They can make gobs of torque, just kinda nevvdr saw one stay together long in the 75/80 HP range. As for the question about crank and pistons, you will need to have the ports on the cylinders adjusted for the 4 mil crank. The pistons should be chosen according to the rods on the crank. Long rod crank is preferable, so +5mm wrist pin pistons from WSM or Vitos. The WSM were my choice due to price and availability. They can be found through Tony Doukas Racing for the best deal and be at your door in 2/3 days.

Ok, I don't wanna sound like a Dick, but this needs to be said. YOU.....WILL....NOT....SELL.... THAT....ROLLER.... You are a shop owner? Obviously the wrench man, and not the salesman. Your guy bought the bike and you fellas were pissed it had to be gone through and properly set up. So why the hell would you take a purpose built flat track chassis, set it up for drag and expect some one to buy it as a TT chassis that needs to be set up for....... TT? None of your photos depict the upselling points, key adjustability parts, up close on the fabrication quality,etc. You still have the long swing arm on it? WHY? And why would you tell the customer to part it out? What is there that people can buy? Calipers, plastic, axle, wheels and tires? Congratulations, he is now left with a flat track frame set up for drag that needs to be set up for flat track that no one will ever buy. Those are all the reasons I won't buy it, probably the same for most. You just have to consider the fact that anyone serious enough to go to a full custom frame, is probably smart enough to know that your current offer is a total mishmash of headache. I apologize, but if you guys get the setup right, someone might bite. Hell, i want it, but I won't buy a flat track frame set up for drag. Maybe push it as a light weight drag frame to the drag guys? Dunno, just letting ya know that the current plan of attack isn't working. Your guy open to any trade?

Saw wheelman's stuff in person this weekend, and it is all top notch. Hell, that 10 mil of his got up and outta the crater on the line real nice and kept tracking straight as an arrow. Not to mention it moves a lot nicer then most 10 mil setups, and that is with the big man at the bars.

Holy Hell, that was a killer time. Lotta bikes in a few categories, so there was no shortage of grudge racing. I got a shit ton of videos, just gotta get time to upload them. Need to re-register Photobucket for some reason.Man, I need to get the new drag project moving.

Bout what time are you fellas gettin started?

well, this is only my opinion based on my experience and the knowledge that has been passed down from reputable banshee veterans. the TZ is a kick ass bearing, in fact the cylindrical roller bearing is probably the stoutest bearing designs out there. However there times when it"s use must be evaluated. Normally in a smaller motor it is not necassary, and the additional cost can be spent else where by just using a max load on the crank side. In higher HP bikes many guys jump right on the TZ bearing, but typically a Maxload will suffice unless the bike makes monster power. The thing many people forget is that the TZ bearing needs to be paired with straight cut primaries, wich only adds to the cost. Some may argue that view, but think physics for a second. With the helical gears there is a tendancy for the crank to side load. Now with a ball bearing setup like a Maxload the balls will just adjust torsionally and roll through the flex. With the Straight edged cylindrical rollers of the TZ, the load is applied to the sides of the roller, wich in turn causes side wear and/or even outer race stretching. Of course the abount of wear is minute and the race stretch is minimal, but over time it adds up to loose tolerances, or roller debris in the bearing, and the outcome of such a situation is anything but cheap unless caught by preventative maintainence.

Gonna come down and watch, bring a few buddies. This is sure to get me cracking on my drag build after my flat tracker is done.

I bet it would be more like 20 psi if there was a cool sticker on that thing

If you are willing to seperate the motor and chassis, you should put another posting in the for sale section. That motor will probably definitely go quick. As for the chassis, throw on the shorter swinger and get photos of all the details. It was made to be a flat track/TT chassis, so highlighting those qualities will help get it sold. For instance light weight chromoly, lower radiator for low center of gravity, ultra adjustable, dual piston calipers, etc. I have pictures of it as well if you want them. They are from when the short swinger was on it. Might sell easier in the flat track forum, if it doesn't look like a drag bike. Hell, what are you asking for the chassis?

Interested in a set of cylinders possibly the cases. Are the cyilnders unported? looking for bone stockers if possible. As for the cases, no leaks, repairs? brett

Damn, I almost bought that thing. Sure glad I just kept my own shitty pile of headaches instead. Sorry to hear you lost on a gamble to someones project. It happens, hope someone is willing to sort it all out so your wallet can recover

IMO, there is no way that kit is worth the money. Maybe 8/10 years ago when there was only the LA sleeve mono, T-Rex, etc. But now there are entire cylinder kits that will get you more for the same price as properly setting up sleeves. Hell, $400 for the kit, $200 for top notch precision sleeving, $3/$400 for porting, and that is just the start. It is old technology, and it almost holds your cylinder back on porting. It chokes the transfers when you just stuff the big sleeves in. Of course you could get your transfers welded and opened up before the new sleeves go in, but that is another additional cost. I have that same kit in my bike and I am so sick of the headaches of big bores in stock cylinders. It has taken me alot of time and money to get mine to run like a big bore 80 horse 4 mil should. I will find a link on a lot of set up tips if you are still set on it. But consider this....... a standard dune port on race gas from almost every builder on our site sponsor list will make about 80 horse reliably if you have the right set up. And they will do it for $3/400. Way less then mine cost, way less down time, and way less headache.

Man, dude for a young fella you are kick ass at what you do. Fast turn around with a solid mechanical understanding. I can seriously say if you found a way to make a jig and made a weld on kit like the sub frame guys, you would have a steady demand. Hell every one criticizes people for wanting to rework the frame for moto, but look how many drag guys chop their shit up. Can't believe there aren't shops doing this. You friggin killed it, and as soon as you get it dialed I'd be willing to get mine done if you were lookin for cash. Billybobby, you would have pictures of that magazine cover queen, with its outlaw frame and efi. LMAO! That thing is titties. I would sell my soul to own that thing.

Hey, is this the bike ken built with a LRD T-Rex that Arlen built? I might have some pictures he sent me in an e-mail. Also, have ken get back to me, I was trying to get with him on the weld up stocker cylinders he had.

Trans will need to be gone over with an E-Z shift mod or similar cut. Tyson Racing, W-C-R, Fast, etc. will all be able to hook you up. I think Camatv is doing them now as well.

My thoughts exactly. Been talking to Jim at Passion about one of the super servals for my flattrack/ice setup. I think it should be a real solid reliable motor as a 4mil, and a ultra power house on race gas. Radar, you do any flattrack style motors?

Uhh....... Radar, you do know there weren't many CP cylindered banshees out when this thread was made. Jesus NYUK, had to wipe the dust off that one. Just goes to show how far the banshee aftermarket has come.

The motor was almost identical to my signature motor. Just different head, still on race gas. Makes 80 on pods, and makes 80 with an open box with the pro flow kit. That filter in the pro flow kit is big as fuck! It didn't choke me down at all. Maybe...... just maybe it might hold your big 10 mil back a horse or two, but it's better then hitting a puddle and hydro- locking your motor. I speak from experience on that. Pods on a little open ice turned my old crank rods in to "Z" shaped scrap!

Well LMS....... I would definitely say go ahead and try to fab somethin up like a shroud if you do swap to pods. But in my experience, I went from pods to the big ass K&N with a pro flow kit and never felt a difference. Jetted the exact same and dynoed the same. The key is to keep the filter and pre filter as clean as possible and there should be no problem. Facts go as is, Pods are super easy to contend with. The box......... NOT! Just keep the box around for disgusting rides.

"Sleeves are the way to go for anything other then drag racing." NO, NO THEY ARE NOT! My motor has been one long culmination of issues and after sorting it all out, the motor still gets out ran by standard cylinders with solid port work. And Im not talking about drag bikes either. Old tech, Old theory, old school thought. However, I ran a set of weld up cylinders that arlen formerly of LRD set up, and they absolutely killed almost anything short of a properly set up cub. but when you factor in the cost of sleeving($4-500) decking($50) tig & rework transfers/Porting ($750-850) A few years ago that would of been the top dog, but now with the availability of aftermarket cylinders you would be a fool to pay some one to build you proper big bore cylinders.

Honestly, I have hand polished my last 3 sets of pipes, and what a pain in the ass to do and maintain. Especially since I'm a Michigan boy and I ride in the winter. NEVER again! Look up a company called Nitro Plate. They are one of the top ceramic coaters for several sanctioned racing associations. They do black, silver, and a high polish. The last time I got a quote on my rockets they were charging something like 12-14 bucks a foot for two stroke pipes. Not to mention the benifits to running a high temp coating go beyond durability and looks. On a two stroke pipe the power gains can be pretty big, especially on a built motor. I have seen a bike with CPI OOF pick up almost 6 horses with Nitro Plate.

The mod is known by many builders as EZ-Shift Cut. Or the folks over at W-C-R call it their "Pro Mod" transmission. Most of us just hear about removing every other dog off the gears, but a good transmission cut will also have the gear's meshing surface "Back Cut". I am a big supporter of Tyson Racing and W-C-R when it comes to tranny work, but mine will be coming from W-C-R. They not only remove the dogs, back cut the gears, but they also cryo treat and micro-polish the whole thing. They also mod the drum with a bearing and a modded star. All for the convenient price of $265 plus a stock core. I met a guy with a cub built by RDZ, and it wouldnt shift at all. Even though he has a cub in it, the bike is more of a trail/play set up so an over ride was a little much. once the switch was made last season, that thing was like shifting a tremec in a camaro. Perfect every gear!

I have ran and still run Vito's parts on my bike, & I am not entirely happy. Their stuff is average with the exception of a few parts, but none of their parts will put you ahead of the pack (period) I currently run their big bore sleeves in my motor, but it took a helluva lotta work over the last few engine builds to get them to perform. Their kit is honestly not really worth the money and that is by the math/ benifits ratio not my opinion. What you get are sleeves, gaskets, and CAST pistons. Now you need to have them put in, port matched, cylinders decked, and then there is the accompanied head work. Or buy a cool head and domes. Regardless of what big bore sleeve kit you use that will be the required process, wich is quite costly in comparison to the benefits of a $300/400 port job. Power gains are marginal, and not to mention my motor is just a cunt hair better then any site sponsors off the shelf dune ports, and I have spent a shit ton more time and money on mine. If you do go with the big bore, you need to either run a stock head that is rechambered, or an aftermarket (BIG BORE) head from wicked or trinity. Not a Pro design, Vito's, or Noss. Reason being that eventually the motor will go, and it will need to be bored. Once you take standard domes and stretch them past 68mm they become un reliable and they will grenade or fry o rings due to the ultra thin structural material. Thus the need for a head set up for large domes.