trickedcarbine

Glad to hear you are finally focusing soley on the engine program. I did finally get my motor today, and that is the quality I expected. Thanks for getting it turned around. I will report back on the results after assembly.

The best way to clean a carb! I used to work in a transmission shop and I ran everything with orfices or passages through it. The ol' can of cleaner is good for cleaning to, but the sonic just gets every book and cranny flushed out perfect.

Dude, go for it. Get a budget slingshot from Driveline or Vitos. The only work required for getting them in is to grind, drill, or mill the inner nubs a bit. I had a ton of people tell me I really didn't need it with a good set of stiff springs, but my lap times didn't lie. Not to mention after the switch to a lighter spring and lockup set up, my clutch hand is never tired. I run an ASV lever with the Driveline unit on eBay with their trail/medium springs over the FZR1000 fibers. Bike just litterally never stops pulling. You got that serval with the black plastics and orange frame I saw at phill's sand drags? Cuz on paddles that thing was definitely slipping.

Man, you should double check that question. Let things Marinate a little before answeronging people. Just fucking with ya.

Now that I have gotten my parts several months after ordering them, I figured I should definitely let others know how he really conducts his business. I Called Greg back in late October to order A Pro Mod tranny and replacement bearings. So just about Christmas time I get my tranny and no bearings. But with in a week or so of me getting the tranny he was already calling and asking me for the core back. (wich I must add was way nicer then the unit he chose to perform service on that got sent to me) So in my conversation with him about shipping the core back, I mention the bearings. He tells me they were not ordered. So we get an order set up and he says everything is in stock and will ship in a couple days. Almost another couple months later in Febuary I still had no bearings. so I call again to see what the deal is, he proceeds to tell me that someone must of not placed the order after he put the info on the desk. Once again he says things will ship ASAP. NO FUCKING DICE! Again I had to call him. when I ask who I need to talk to about shipping/service issues, he says him since it is a one man show. But wait a minute, he just previously blamed the shipping issues on someone else! Now on to the conversation, I politely explain the situation and all of it's rediculous timelines on shipping and his core request. This guy starts cussing me out and saying I have no right to call and complain about anything, especially since he had no idea who I was on the phone. This Jaggoff Litterally used several profane words to describe his end of things and again told me that " If you don't like the fuckin' way I do business then more power to you, go spend your damn money elsewhere" Of course this is after I have already spent my money and need him to get my parts. All pissed off and throwing a tantrum he takes my name and number. 5 minutes later I get a call about how he is sorry for the way he handled the conversation, and apologized for the delay on parts, but blames someone else for putting out the wrong order so he had the wrong stuff in inventory. Finally I get the three genuine Yamaha bearings and the Maxload replacement was drop shipped from his "supplier". (Tony Doukas Racing who by the way has all the bearings you need in stock at great prices and really ships ASAP) So do the math folks. Shitty service, Shitty Parts, Shitty shipping SHITTY FUCKING ATTITUDE. Not to mention he is just marking up other vendors parts and is obviously not a true vendor of any type.

TDR is definitely one of the best when it comes to banshees. He has been around for a long while in the banshee scene as well as the pwc world. Just because he isn't a site sponsor doesn't mean he doesn't do work just as good if not better then some. You will be more then happy with his products. His service and great prices on hard to find items are what keep me coming back.

OK, I dont wanna be the guy that tells ya you shouldnt of grabbed those up, so I will try to tell you exactley how I made that kit work.(those are the stock cyls with sleeves?) First, do not even bother with a dome set up in a cool head. Once those cylinders get past 68mm they get real difficult to seal the domes up. Not to mention the material around the edge of the dome gets real thin and unreliable. Dave at NOSS warned me, but I chanced it and regreted it. Figure out your deck height on a torqued down base gasket and Get the new head gasket from Tony at TDR. Send a stock head to Dave at NOSS and have him chamber the domes accordingly. I have been through hell with that set up all the way to 70mm. I know what it takes to keep it sealed up and running. Once you are ready to put it together, spray the base surfaces with brake clean and make sure there is no trace of anything! Put the base gasket on raw. No rtv, permatex, seal packing, spray a gasket,.......nothing. On the TDR head gasket use permatex aerosol copper gasket spray. Of course you are welcome to experiment, just expect to spend the dollars to keep rebuilding it. I had 6 engine rebuilds in 3 years on that set up and not one of them was due to jetting issues or a leaky seal. every melt down was due to coolant finding its way through the head or sleeves shifting. It only stayed together once I switched to a Custom Stock Head and the NEW TDR gasket.

Admittedly, I have put up with way to much of a blunder dealing with Jim. However, my bike isn't a duner or a drag bike. It is a TT/Ice bike and I havn't seen any of Jeff's or Kevin's bikes take a single trophy in that kind of riding. Not saying they couldn't, but Jim has.

YES. I find it super ironic that you just posted this, because I just talked to the guys at Duncan Racing about it. They still do the mod by milling the outter face and cutting a groove for the o-ring. Drill and tap a few holes and install their quick cover. Check out their site.

Well the first few dyno comparisons that Snop posted were "LOADED". By the way, snop is typically questioned everytime he posts a dyno run. Kinda funny how so many people freak out about "LOADED" runs. I remember seeing the first graph for the big bore motor in my sig. I was like, THAT'S IT? Made 78 H.P. & 44 ft.lbs. "LOADED" put out 87 H.P. & 52 ft.lbs. "UNLOADED". Lotta timing and really expensive gas to get those numbers though. Just had to see what it could do before taming it down.

Man, I sure wish I could! Jim sort of keeps ya on a need to know basis. You get a phone call when he starts your motor work, then you get a call when its done. That's it. If you forget to ask a question, the likelyhood of getting in touch with him again is slim to none. He did give me a check list for parts combination, assembly, and tune up. So I'm not hating on him, he's just a busy guy. From what I understand, he has another job as well. I sure wish his communication was a little better. For now I'll just leave the intake Windows alone. They seem a little small to me, but I do want to do a little testing down the road

Yeah that copper spray is killer! No one should be reusing gaskets in my opinion anyway. That stuff was the only thing that kept the big bore motor in my Sig from leaking. TDR gave me some pretty good stuff too. It is called Toyota Seal Packing. It is basically their extreme version of permatex for the assembly line. So, how bout these pistons? Should I do some work on the Windows? Like I said, I have all the tools necassary to do it. I have honestly never ran Weisco pistons but the window just seem so small. No comparison when next to my old WSM pistons.

I have also heard of guys putting a dab of Loctite or Yamabond on the crank bearings to keep the outter race from spinning/wobbling in the cases.(especially the cranks that have no pins on the bearing races) Good or bad?

So, I'm finally putting my Passion motor together and I want no corners cut. The bike is a TT/ Ice setup with Jim's 4mil 12 port. I made sure to get new everything from cases to the spark plugs. Just wondering if I should window my pistons (weiseco) or just leave them alone. I have the tools to it. Is there anything out of the ordinary that I should check/inspect. What I'm looking for are those little tricks pros have done that 90% of the at home garage guys will never hear about. For instance. After talking with Jim I was informed that an un mentioned factor in clutch side crank failure is a potential micro air leak through the woodruff key for the primary/water pump gears. Told me a little Permatex Ultra Grey on assembly will insure longer bearing life and easier to tune. Also, step torque the head in small increments BEFORE torqueing the base nuts. Especially for stock jug, Athena, or guys running any multi cylinder motor. This should help with better more even squish and keep things ultra true. Weird one I have been doing on any machined mating surface. I like to fix fine grit sand paper to a piece of glass and touch things up ever so slightly. If any one has some cool custom tools, fixtures, motor stands, etc. post it up. Special assembly procedures or tricks to get things to line up or go together nice and easy. Anything like that

I have to rifle through the computer to find it, but there used to be a shop that converted banshees, 250r's, and even a few quadzillas. I think they sent a quadzilla to pikes peak in like 2005. no clue how it did though.

SAWEEET! Finish this friggin passion motor and I might have to get a set.

Priced to move? $4000! GTFO!

Agreed. Master Formula is truely great shit! Obviously true compounds like rouge, Tripoli, and the good ol' brown and black cakes for aggressive cast cutting and true buff out. But if you want that wet Chrome look even on aluminum, it has to be Master Formula! Tried mothers, and its for sheltered folks who ain't much got time or money for experimentation so they go with the 4mil cub of polish. The flitz, followed by white diamond are pretty decent as well, however they don't quite get the master formula luster. Buy their stuff at expos, swap meets, etc. You won't be dissapointed. If you aren't happy, film your results and get a refund. Last I heard, they aren't givin out many refunds.

A guy I met is selling a crank from a project he backed out of. He claims it is a 4mm, but I don't know if it is a 115 rod or a 110 rod. The tag on the box has H-129 on the top with a part number #060304c HR4011-1. Any ideas?

I've heard those guys are running rounds like true NHRA teams do. Burning those motors up at the end of the track and rebuilding them ASAP. Buddy showed me a video of them racing streebikes and the pace at wich their bikes come apart in the pits is F'ing retarted fast. It's like they rebuild motors and fix problems like the Mexicans do drywall. Man, hope the ATVDRA is bringing some killer bikes. Not to be the pessimist, but bring every drop of your own fuel. Lotta bunk down there. This is like the Olympics to me. Good luck to you all.

We need to kick this thread into high gear and maybe get a poll/petition started. With enough interest it would definitely get the attention if the folks at MOTO tassanari

Hopefully going down there this week to take a peak at the inventory. He has expressed interest in sponsoring BHQ in the past, maybe this thread can help that along

The current 450 shocks are more for the ice/flat track, as well as the adjustment holes on the arms. Kinda how some old school open wheel circle track cars & late model racers would se up control arms. Set the height, and even put the out side tire up one hole over the inside to help shove the quad in to the corner. I'm sure come spring I'll con him in to a real set of long travel shocks for the trails.

Awe, you remembered to thank me... you are such a sweetheart! Progress is killer. Been fun working on a fresh clean machine..... even though I cleaned a ton of it.