trickedcarbine

Well that was like telling a joke do a deaf man.

No idea where there are tracks out there. I'm a Michigan boy. But there are several flat track racing sites out there that will have that info even though they are more motorcycle based. Try google as well, it is the Mecca of info

Ok, so that just put about a page and a half of bashing under the rug! What was off on it if you don't mind me asking? I have been leary of the Wang cranks since they hit. Even if they are being rebuilt, it just seems off to me.

Quick list -swaybar -blaster front shocks for 20" rear or 300ex fronts for 18" rear -lowering link for rear( stock shock tuned hooks way better then the R6 shock I tried) - swinger shortened 2 inches - +2 a arms or +3 if money permits - +4 axle You can definitely go out with the ratchet strap lowering rig and put spacers on every corner, but you probably won't be happy and there is a reason. Definitely spend some time digging through the flat track threads. Lotta hints and tips, and always feel free to ask questions as long as you search for answers first. Some people just get up tight about that shit. Pm me if you need any help as well.

It definitely is, However there are a lot of people who do all of the above and still get shit on. I am not saying the union is the answer because my mom is a bus driver who pays a union to represent her and fellow employees, yet that same union did nothing when talks of privatizing their district. It is just one of those win lose situations where something needs to be done, yet the unions go so far that they fuck the people that they represent.

The serval would be nice, not much worth it for the guy with a solid ported 4 mil motor already, but a cheetah would take care of any one. The next motor going in my bike will definitely be a 485 cheetah. That will do more then put distance between a banshee and 4 poke. I wish we could get a good out of the box chassis again with out paying big bucks for the LSR or Laeger setups. Beating a 4 stroke motor to motor is not hard but competing with their light weight and nimble handling carachteristics is the problem. The banshees held their own over the pokers on pikes peak till 09 when they let the pokers get crazy with the motors. Once they had 2/3 of the power of the banshees and ultra light chassis, the two stroke reign began to fade. However there was a yfz450 with a cheetah motor that fared pretty well and it would be nice to see it dominate

I couldn't tell if you were joking or not. 10 mill would be nice, but no where near nesaccary. Especially the cub cylinder you mentioned. The thing would fall on its face outta the turns unless he was just murdering clutches. Remember it's just a short track racer, not the big half mile ovals the Canadian boys get to run on.

You are probably ok, but it will certainly help to put straight gas in it and shake it for a while and dump that out as well. The more you get out the better. When it comes to any other excess fluid in the motor other then the charged air from the carb, it might as well be water about to hydro lock the motor. That usually bends crank rods and seizes motors by the way, so you need to be sure. Otherwise all that wrenching you did do is useless.

Huh?

The $3800 price tag is a little on the high side, but the pic you posted shows a fairly clean set up and it would be more then a good start. Give each cylinder a compression test to see what kind of life is left on that top end. Should kick in the 140ish range with those pump gas domes. Also if you grab it up, ditch the timing advance key for a stock woodruff key and adjustable timing plate. Those T6 pipes are designed for bikes with stock porting however with the larger carbs on there the pipes probably aren't the most ideal exhaust. Since you want it for short track racing something like the pro circuit, lrd, T5, pt mids, or FMF fatty would be sweet. Get in to porting and compression and then step up to the cpi, shearer, or rocket pipes. As for gearing, it will depend on how much steam that Lil' motor can make. My stock stroke big bore motor was more then happy with 15/41 gearing under good traction. Came out of the turn in 3rd and caught 4th once the quad hooked and once 4th was wound out it was the end of the straight and time to down shift to 3rd.

Actually the new Vito's cranks are pretty beefy! I debated running their new style crank but opted not to be the guinea pig. So I grabbed up a weisco instead, but once I finally saw a new Vito's crank in person I wish I had went with it. It is definitely a quality piece By the way for those just skimming and not really reading, the pics of the backward piston are not the original posters they were from some one else (stroking)

I started doing business with TDR after seeing their banshee superstore ad in dirt wheels. Might be worth a shot to advertise. Can't hurt to try.

There was an old thread about Eric Gorr modifying 2 250 pipes for a banshee a long time ago. He basically ported it similar to his 250 specs that already worked well on the pipes he used. Don't know what happened, but it was like the 90's when it went down.

Always call the manufacturer of your pipe about doing this to your two stroke exhaust before doing this. Some pipes are shaped and contoured to move heat in a particular way, and coating a pipe to direct or hold heat might hurt the performance of the pipe. Two stroke pipes are funny and react to variables way differently then 4 stroke exhaust. This is direct knowledge from Matt Shearer. I was going to buy raw pipes to have them Nitro Plated and he firmly advised me that it would hurt the way his pipe moves heat. He has dynoed them coated and needless to say, he claims that for his pipes ceramic coating is a bad idea although it has proven to be a viable option for other manufacturers' pipes. I have a local company ( line 2 line ) that is willing to coat my rockets for free as long as it is tested asap

I'm in michigan, sorry I didnt get back on that sooner. I dig that thing and I bet you could get that thing parted out pretty quickly if you wanted to and marketed it right. If not, find a way to get that thing fueled and winning races in one piece! People are always thinking that drag bikes are the biggest headache to get fueled, but in reality these oval bikes are way more needy in my opinion, especially an alky bike. Just my mild ported 4 mil stock cyl needed a gutted cap, dual pingel, billit bowls, and jim tells me my new 4 mil might need a pump as well on the bigger tracks. The thing is, these bikes are hot lap drag racing over and over at WOT with nothing more then a throttle chop at the down shift to recover fuel in the carb. I know that it gets expensive learning a big motor, but try a better suited float needle and seat, billit bowls, and a dual pump set up with one of the clark dual pet cock tanks with a pair of stock petcocks. One pump for each carb, pulsed off the cylinder it will feed. Also run two power jets in each carb. I have only heard of a few bikes with a big cub like yours set up for circle track on alky and they usually switch back to gas and never last on big tracks due to the same reasons you are wanting to move on. I really think it is doable, just gotta get that pig fed. if not go to the race gas and see if you can keep it together. Otherwise sell me your junk!

Ogemaw sport and trail center. Lakes Motorsports does a ride there and it was like 35 bucks for the weekend to camp and they cooked all day for us and brought the beer! The trails on their property are always changing and there are some saweet hillclimbs and smooth switch back trails. they also have a moto track and a practice track. Once their trails start to bore you there are infinite miles of open state trail to ride. some are tight and technical, sandy hills, wide open powerlines, etc. Lotta fun and it was a kick ass time. I would go again in a heartbeat.

Whole front end if you are willing to share the tuning secrets on it, bumper, rear caliper and bracket, tires. Probably a few more things as well.

Are you interested in doing a part out list and prices? There are a few things I will take.

I called weisco and they were more then happy to fix me up with an exchange. It apparently used to be a prevalent problem when the 4 mil thing was just starting. That is why older timing plate instructions say to verify actual timing before advancing from zero. That old motor used to have constant detonation issues and I kept pulling timing, compression, and ran really good fuel. Just never was enough, and the crank took a poop on the big bore motor in my Sig. The new crank is going in a set of Passion cylinders, so keeping my fingers crossed.

I recently had an issue with my Weisco crank that caused some timing issues, and I would just like to give you fellas a heads up. The issue was that the motor would read 3/4 degrees off at all times at all rpms wich meant my plate at +4 was really +7/8. I checked the electrical components from that build and they seem cool. So after asking around a few reputable builders told me that there have been a few mishaps from Weisco where +4mm cranks had the woodruff keyway machined at the same position as their stock stroke cranks. After being called a "dumb fuck" by a very reputable hq source( Dumbshit/zilla haha) I was compelled to take that crank to a local shop to verify whether this was the case. Sure as shit, the Key way was off. This in turn meant the fly wheel was degreed wrong from top dead center, causing the timing to be at a constant 3/4 degrees off. So, always verify that the pickup coil is dead center on a flywheel pick up point when a piston is at TDC with the plate at zero. This should be checked upon assembly before the head is installed. Big manufacturers do make mistakes and it goes a long way to check every product so that their blunder isnt your headache.

I have started to see these on a few bikes and I dig the way it cleans up one more janky line on the bike. But my question is, does it hurt the performance of the crank case at all as far as increased temps, pressure, etc.? Doing a new Passion motor and it will be a task to keep things cool to begin with. Link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c90ebeb8&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_953 good or bad idea?

Steer clear of the big bore sleeve kits for stock cylinders! They are just old tech, and next to impossible to keep sealed up after 68mm so they aren't sucking water. Then there is the issue of not having dome material, so stress usually wins once the domes are opened up as well. I worked with Dave noss on trying to find a happy medium, but it was just a no go. It can be done, but to do it properly with an o-ringed one piece head with custom chambers, re enforced head gasket, low compression to keep the sleeves from pushing down, etc. Even then you still gotta get some porting so the cost just keeps going. And it is still an unpredictable motor.

We used to think our little suburb out in the country was nice and safe, then my brothers kx250 got swooped. Little fuckers dumped it in a gravel pit pond. Once I got my banshee I tripled up two studs and put steel plates over them with lag bolts. Ground the edges off the heads of the bolts so they won't be wireless impacted off. Then drilled through the studs for a steel cable lock to go through and around a frame rail of the bike. Recently added a kryptonite Lock to the concrete as well. The active panel door has a dead bolt on each side going through the track, and my entry door is plated and tripled. It also has the I beam header and plate and tool box road block. It is shitty to think of what kind of scumbags live in our world but that is just the reality. Not to mention that around here, you will probably still do time for shooting some one, even if they are stealing. TRUST NO ONE! EVER!

Try the pail of carb cleaner you can get at any auto parts store. Take out any plastic if possible and just drop it in. Be careful breathing though. Stuff will get ya seeing some mad double vision.

Dude, it has only been a week. I understand you paid and were told it would ship and it still hadn't, that's a bummer, but nothing to get to worked up over. Hell, I waited 6 months for cylinders for a sponsor to port my cylinders before I even started to get upset. They are moving so I'm sure things are hectic. Just give it a lil time and then call in a friendly reminder. If you didn't just try to ruin his name he probably would of sent you some cool new promotional gear for No Limit Powersports or discount for your trouble. But you must of not thought that out. Also, Andy gave every one a full heads up before the move and you still went ahead and ordered.