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trickedcarbine

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Everything posted by trickedcarbine

  1. Your only option for a decent 4mil at that price is to find one built in the for sale section. They pop up time to time. Just the new cylinders and porting with the crank alone are almost 1000. Then you need head, domes, seals, gaskets, reeds, clutch mods, minor shifting mods, exhaust, etc.....
  2. Notice how much better the welds are on the FMF then the nos one.
  3. Let me know when you make it up here to Michigan. If love to check it out.
  4. This had to be another fucking troll thread! There have been so many lately. I love seeing people get "racing PYPES, big bore heads, stuffer reeds, port polished head, etc." Rz500 would be bitchin! It would pull some fucking gear! I can honestly say that I have been up to almost 120mph on a RZ with a motor built by Spec II. I think that was the name.... And some hand coned pipes from some company called Highway Man Pipes.
  5. Way better on the thumb to. Easier and smoother.
  6. Coming along pretty nicely. How do you like it on the ice with the Marvin shaw?
  7. Try and make sure the fuel hoses have a smooth down ward flow with no harsh bends. Make sure the vent and over flow lines arent goobered up with that greasy shit build up. Also, don't know your mods, but a gutted gas cap might help. With the VForce 4's you should be up an additional size. Try the 30 again.
  8. What an increase in carb bore diameter does is actually decrease the pulse strength or draw on the carb. So, in theory you should up the jet a bit to compensate for the change in pulse as well as the additional air flow.
  9. Why so hung up on the OEM one? There isn't one single aspect of the OEM one that is better then the chariot. I suppose you could get a decent used OEM on Ebay. Look up "thumb throttle assembly"
  10. Gimmick. I posted more as a smart ass joke. Like I said, they are apparently no longer in business.
  11. Yeah, you can get a nice one from chariot. You could even switch to twist throttle.
  12. Yeah. They went out of business for some reason.........
  13. I use this really bitchin' stuff I found in all the DYNO cells for a chrysler plant I liquidated. It goes on all their harnesses for the exhaust and egt probes. It's really low profile and keeps the heat from even melting my outer wears.
  14. Rubber class DAWG!
  15. No, the reason you are getting thrown around is because some goons don't have a fucking clue how to build jumps that flow right. You hill climbing fellas sure can get nuts and I fucking love watching it. You ever get out west for some reason, find your self a mountain track sled out and I bet you would be in love with it.
  16. Absolutely, espscially in the drag stuff with larger bore and stroke and an altered exhaust port. Just kind of a general area to find out where you are at. But if you start asking guys their UCCR, the majority won't know how to figure it out. Even with correct math things can still be a bit off.
  17. Sorry, I Havnt seen recent pics of his set up. Haha. But if they were done by shearer they should be fine.
  18. Way I see it..... If you are to concerned about cost, it's not for you.
  19. Ever hear of "the Turbonator"?.......,
  20. They definitely make both forged and cast. I believe they have some shared manufacturing with Wossner.
  21. That is quite a difference. Is that a long rod crank? Look at the part numbers on the pistons that came out. Seems like there should be a set of 795's in there.
  22. You fuckers beat me to it! I was totally making that sketch for the post. The STAGE 2 stickers add extra low end. It will typically show on the dyno from 4-6k
  23. You can! just mount one spigot in each boot and weld a bing on the Un used ends to run your carb vent lines to it so it works like a power jet. Or you can loop a rubber hose to the Un used ends!
  24. Yeah, looking under the clutch cover is a good start. But you said there is now a chatter after a short term seize. I've had my bike seize up and once it cooled down it would kick again so I thought it was the pistons. So I get it home and kick it on the compression gauge and it was fine. I put my little makita scope and video screen down the plug holes and it looked great. So I get on it and kicker over and go for a diagnosis cruise. Of course nothing showed its face till I get out of my sub and on the dirt road once I gave it some throttle. Seized up again. I pushed it home and ripped it apart and the bushing out side rod end took a dive.
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