trickedcarbine

Yes, the chariot stuff is great as well. I am considering a super duty head as I have just found that my current set up from Wicked Racing is really not compatible with the machining of 4mil clearances. It puts the step right where they have a "cooling fin" machined which has caused a crack. So the Chariot 2 piece set up seems like it is the hot ticket!

I have only seen shift shaft bearings on an RZ350. It required machining the bushing holes bigger and in the end the guy said he didn't think it was worth it. You can replace the bushings with some better materials that might have a smoother feel, but that isn't really a mod you will notice.

You sure about that ghost rider?

Noss also has less pieces, which means less o rings. In turn it is less prone to a leak. Plus you don't have to change head studs which can be a pain some times. Not to mention the multiple color choices from Noss. It is definitely a better product with a better price. If you get a good deal on a Pro Design used or something they ad worth it. But to buy a new product, my vote is Noss

If you just buy the shell and have domes set up from someone reputable you should have a decent gain. Mostly with throttle response and a bit more torque in the bottom. It is definitely not gonna make your machine run way cooler though so don't bank on that.

Curve, shmerve.... What people really want is the really bitchin custom stamped SCP badge tack welded on to their pipes.

Thought Stephan would let the TSS name die after him and Wayne split

A lot of he older arms from several different companies required reaming on the spindle. LSR, Denton, Houser, etc.

Turbo the crank? Is that like the swirl pattern they put in heads? They just cut the journals?

So builder, get a little bored. Decided to do some digging did ya?

Just do a search on Minkia38. His name is Rattle Can Ray. It amazes me how in this day and age with all the technological advantages we have now, that people still do not research and educate them selves on anything they buy. Jeezus! Just google it!

Sounds like a good time. I honestly think I like wrenching as much as the riding. I just don't like wrenching till 4 am the night before the race be still not being able to get it to run right.

Not bad. It should also be noted that any Two stroke bike with that kind of power will require you to become a total mad scientist when it comes to chassis set up. You will need to make sure you pony up for a long travel suspension up front and have it set up for about 3" of up travel and the rest for droop travel. Because "IF" you manage to get it to hook up the front end will just push out in he turns. So letting the tires come down for contact with the ice will keep you pointed the right direction. Also, in my opinion you will need a -2 swing arm, new rear shock (think drag racing when you set it up) and a sway bar to control the turning. Some of the new 450's don't even need sway bars with the right shocks, but the ancient banshee will require one. Steer clear of the full flight arms. They don't give you the right clearance to run a sway bar with out clamping them to the arms. Although you could weld a tab. Look around on the flat track section. Plenty of guys posting what won't work. What will, is gonna take your hard work.

Magnum, Mattoon, Hinson. All good. The best would be the HInson with the spring loaded set up instead of cushions.

When to we get to purchase the new bars? Or even see them?

Sure they do! Only 1 out of every 10-12 passes. So the trick is to make the good pass, then take it to the parking lot and launch it till its running consistantly shitty. Then you turn it off and save the next run for the track because it's about to hiccup and throw down the hammer!

CHAIN AIDS! They are easily remedied by working extra hard for extra money For a round house set up.

You can save a ton of money if you just go to the auto parts store and find rubber grommets for panels and firewalls etc. They have them near me at autozone where all the misc. HELP! kits are from Doorman.

So what ever happened to poor old Dicky Stator? Didn't they send a rep over to BHQ to reconcile?

You are talking Ice oval racing? There are so many options out there it's rediculous. The aftermarket has really kept the Banshee alive and thriving. You could do a T-Rex, but you will need to send it out to be reworked to today's standards and parts availability. There is a guy who just did a Twister set up and he seems to like it for ice racing. You also have the option of a 10mm Serval cylinder that would put you right on the money with your desired requirements. Another stellar option I considered was a Cheetah cylinder which would definitely meet your demands on only a 4mm crank, but it needs to be done by one out of a handful of guys that can really get them to run right. The last option on the list which I am going with is the DM cylinder. 550 CC's out of a 4mm crank. Steer clear of the cub style cylinders. They definitely will have some sort of laggy feeling when you start chopping the throttle and loading the motor up midway through the turn. I've rode a cub on the ice with some clean up work and to get it to even be remotely responsive out of the hole took a lot of timing, compression, small carbs and hand built pipes that to me just looked like Pro Circuits. Just a weird setup when you consider what a cub is really supposed to do and how it really does it. It was choked out on the big end for sure and the thing got hot a lot from the excessive timing and compression and the lack of heat moving out of the cylinder because of the pipes

The shaft that runs through the stator cover and cases to the clutch side has a spot around the eccentric screw that you can grind a little material out of on the top and bottom. The star can have all but the last points ground down to change it to a more smooth rounded profile. There is another product that replaces the shift detent arm with one that has a bearing on the end. Mull engineering also mods the stock arm with a bearing which I would reccomend trying. The Shift Pro kit seems to get really loose and it requires that you use a punch on the back to properly mushroom the fastener they use. You can also do some cutting on the tranny if you have access to the right tooling.

Some tranny bearings can be swapped with the maxloads we use on our cranks.

Definitely get rid of the boost bottle. It causes air leaks. Air leaks cause melted pistons! Do a full freshening up of the bottom while you are in it. New tranny bearings, seals, mod the shift shaft, shift star, any janky misc hardware, a Billit basket and fresh clutch, and have the crank rebuilt and welded by someone qualified. Also don't get all offended when people comment on your terrible grammar! Especially if you want the people who have been around these things longer then you to give you good advice. It really is kind of obnoxious every couple days when this place gets flooded with early unlegible posts. Not trying to be a dick by the way. Just trying you how to get ahead of the rest of the goons.

I would choose some sort of dune port. It's about as best to both worlds as you can get. If done right you can still have a nice bottom end and it could sing pretty well in to the RPM's up top. You can even keep your FMF pipes for a while and change them to some other bigger in frame pipe like Shearer's, CPI's , or Rockets. Do some searching on here as far as what sponsors there are and give some calls or E-mails to see who makes you feel all warm and fuzzy.

The fellas at CST claim that it is a thinner 4 ply set up but it is priced accordingly. They also claim that it's construction enables it to "wrinkle" over MOST objects before puncturing. I'd imagine that they aren't as durable as the razr tires or the hole shot GNCC tires. But they are cheaper and you could always stick tire balls in there. But at that cost you might as well get some nice tires.