trickedcarbine

Ok, at first I was like WTF! Another leak down tester thread!? But this I will endorse.

I love chrome on street Vehichles. But on off road stuff I can't see my self paying for chrome and risking it chipping.

Brake clean. Carb clean leaves a film that gunks up the next time you polish of clean the parts.

First time from raw to polish was about 8 hours worth of polishing. I'm talking raw dirty stamped steel. I sanded them with 320 to 2000 grit. Then I moved in to the compounds. Once I'm done with the wheels I use Master Formula polish on a soft cloth and clean any residue off then hit them with the Master Formula Sealer Gloss. Let it haze, wipe with a cloth. Good for a year. Occasionally I hit them with the Masterformula polish when I want them to look nice for a race day and that's it. I even ice race them and they stay looking nice as long as I wipe them down. I'll probably buff them this year though.

If you are not an actual Tuner, probably not worth it. But if you want a good gain that you can notice just get an adjustable timing plate.

Yeah. I just use one of the tire nozzles with the squeeze grip. You can be nice and easy.

Good to hear you are looking for a killer play bike. The banshee will do it for ya for sure. It's definitely not the best for MX track carving, but you can make that thing really shine ice racing! As far as a motor like that, I hate to break it to you, but you need to go all the way through it. I would plan on spending quite a bit of cash to get it right the first time and be done with it. If you were just hoping to put a quick top end on it and having a solid bike you need to part it out and quit while you're ahead. I'd suggest that you do a fresh welded crank, but since you're already buying a crank, just get the 4mm stroker crank for not much more coin. The. You need porting and domes to work with the new crank. Then there is the supporting mods that go with your type of riding. Pipes, reeds, carbs, manifold, head, timing plate, any new hardware or fasteners, pancake bearing, shifting mods, fresh clutch, etc. it can get expensive pretty fast. So, like I said. If you wanted a fast cheap project, just ditch it and buy something else more complete. But if you are ok with spending the coin, stop wrenching, and do a ton of research on here and ask questions you can't find answers to.

So funny how the same topics pop up on here ten fold then fade away for a couple months

Can I program this and keep changing it with a laptop?

Some really good parts right there for an awesome flat tracker! I really want those front shocks. What do you want for them if the rear sells? Open to trades? Also, what is up with the sway bar off that white and blue bike you just picked up?

Usually done with rubber mounts and worm gear clamps or you can buy little Billit tube mounts. Mine are from works, but they no longer sell them. Most buggy and offload shops sell Billit clamps that you can use though.

Zilla is in the ball park. Try something like a 50-55 pilot, EEK or EEJ needle, and a 170-175 main

Wow, that backing plate is toast, drain the oil and get a 5 gallon pail of some cheap gear oil and keep flushing it through the cases to make sure that any metal is out of there.

Use some engine block enamel in clear

I know those aren't done, but please tell me that's not your work!

Make sure the slides are in the correct way, in the correct carbs. They will go in backward but not seat completely. Also, did you tweak the adjustment on the carb tops, or are there any cable ends hanging out of the little clasps?

The cub cylinders will be less enjoyable for a strictly trail/play motor. They are a more high end cylinder suited better for dunes and drag. It can be made to work but it might not be the best way to go about it if you are new to the banshee motor platform. I'd say do a 4mm crank in your stock ported cylinders and have a real kick ass set up done by a good builder. But if you need a set of cylinders and are gonna buy some, there is the very trailable Serval Cub

+6-8" arched swinger from stellar, wheelman, or turbo chassis.

I'd just leave the swinger the way it is and focus on clutch tuning. As of right now you know the bike is hooking up, so going with a long swinger means you could eventually run in to traction issues. Then you will need tires to help combat that, and maybe a different shock/strut set up. So it could just save you money to work with your clutch set up and really focus on the way the power hits the tires out of the hole.

Not symmetrical at all....

I vote no on the ASR stuff! You would be more then happy with a nice set of armadillo or LSR sport arms with some decent used front shocks.

The copper RTV stuff is ok. I have really taken a liking to the spray copper.

Bizzare shit on that last one. Need to port in to the case as well? This one is pretty unique as well....

Yeah

The domes pretty much just stay in and you drop it down to about a couple millimeters off the cylinder deck. Look through to make sure the o rings have stayed in place and drop it in the rest. If the domes do keep flopping out, put a pair of spark plugs in and use them like handles.