trickedcarbine

Ditch those and get something cut by ANY site sponsor or known builder and it should run ok.

That's not a fresh plug right?

The 240's are a little lean with that filter. Try some 260's.

Hey STY, I got a kinda weird situation and I have a theory of what's happening but wanna get your take or any one else for that matter. It's not on a drag bike it's on a flat track bike. I oval race and I have been setting the bike up to slip the clutch out of the turn on our short tracks which makes a ton of heat and eventually the clutch lever goes limp. After a little cool down time the clutch is tight again. Is this the springs going totally soft from heat soak? The clutch still seems to lock up but I'm assuming it's the weight of the clutch doing almost all of the work. It's a weird set up but it makes this thing 4 poke like out of the turns on short tracks. Also, do you guys think its nuts to consider an oil cooler set up? I thought about modding an RZ cover so the oil pump just drew from the tranny area and dumped from the cooler over the clutch.

Your 3's are fine. Run 'em till they need new pedals. Then try the 4's

Many pages of pure cumshot.

Lug nuts!

As far as that motor as is with out tearing it down and going nuts. (save that for when it needs a rebuild) I would start with completely new fluids, fresh clutch, new plugs, new plug caps, your new TORS kit, carb tear down and cleanup, sync carbs, check all connections and use dialectric grease, add a ground strap, gap the pick up coil correctly, compression test,(so you can moniter wear)and lastly a leak down. Address the chassis as well. Grease everything, and if it doesn't have a Zerk, pull it apart and grease it. Adjust and lube the chain, check the axle lock nut, hub nuts, any wonky bearings, bleed the brakes, check the pads, adjust the levers and cables, check all cotter pins, check tie rods and steering components, make sure shocks are sound, be sure the radiator is clean and free of debris, grips are not loosely flopping or turning. Once you know it runs reliable give it some bolt on goodies

Bump, showed some of this to my buddy's dad and he says he wants to have you do lots of Harley stuff JD! He saw my clutch insert and was like "WTF? That's not real? And it's aluminum?" Looks killer!

Sticker fetish eh?

The blow trough concept isn't hard to tune, but he trial and error of setting them up and plumbing them is the learning curve.

Few things could cause it. Do you have a pic of it? Other wise I could only speculate that it was due to clearances/tolerances being over looked. Maybe assembly error? Detonation? Have to see it to have a real idea though.

Coating pipes has been less then stellar when results could actually be tested

Well, I kinda hope he isn't making R2's any more.I recall talking to you briefly a few years ago when we were getting the last owner of the Rocket name set up with one of our transmission parts manufacturers who also manufactures some of the Magnum line. My pipes( the last original stampings) were used as a template to make a proto type mold so that Dave( last rocket owner) could begin re producing originals again. The only thing that stopped him from jumping was Tom coming out with a new pipe. If he folded, I might resume pushing David back in to getting the stampings made.

Hey HP, I asked you forever ago about running a couple combos and I've got the shearers/rockets as well as the 34pj's/35pwk's you still able to get a fella in there? ( what would I expect to owe ya and pay for my time)

Seen a couple dynos with a wand you stick in the tail pipe. Not sure how accurate it is. I feel like if it's being used to tune a bike the operator should be experienced enough to know what the dyno/bike interactions mean and how to address whatever feed back accordingly.

Good to know. I would of assumed the tig was best if slow. That is definitely like welding on auto panels but softer metal. I've never messed with epoxy yet. Not on banshee motors at least.

I was gonna have a builder do that with a 7mm DM cylinder. Sort of like a super duper bore serval.... But after talking with the builders, it seems that with the right porting/domes and parts combo that the new CP cylinders are really capable of impressive bottom end if you just pony up the dollars to do it right once. I've got some re assuring info that machining a Gimp cylinder is far more work and cost then just doing a proper set up larger stroke motor.

Tig weld and block sand maybe even a piece of 800 grit on glass.

Actually it did as most do, but I had already swapped the old one with a new OE from FAST and gapped it to 15 thou. So I re used the newer one opposed to the old stocker that was originally connected to the stator I used to replace the junk one. Why? This isn't a fucking debate. Bike didn't run and I swapped a stator and it fired and ran. Everything was adjusted and checked prior to the swap though so I'm not sure why you are so positive that my CDI was the culprit.

Real boost takes time..... So a little nitrous to fill in the blank really makes for a fun ride.....

This goon is PM'ing me about how I diagnosed my bike wrong because a stator swap got my bike running and he feels it is a toasted CDI. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=members&module=messaging&section=view&do=showConversation&topicID=208524&st=0#msg1065845471 Zilla, we ride a lot just north and south of 59 Howell to Waterford. A lot on White Lake and crescent Lake. The guys from Tech Care come out to crecent from time to time. We also got a sweet private lake to ride on and it's true half mile. We are gonna plow it like an alien head shape so that it makes one end tighter so the 4 pokes can have a shot at keeping up though.

-2 and get used to it. Maybe stock length if you are scared.

Every builder will call you at least once when getting you set up. Ask every question before handing over the billing info. Easiest way I've found yet.

^Ahh STFU you fucking parts changer! Haha. You gonna come race the frozen stuff with us ZillaGuy?